[Hot Sauce]

Hello folks,

So my bike is acting funny this weekend. The other day I noticed my VOES plug was missing and I know it was there when I first mounted the motor. I went and bought a plug and installed it. When I went to turn it on, it fired like a champ, just like any other day. I turned off the choke and the bike dies. I tried to adjust the mixture and same thing. I tried to give it more idle and it ran, but barley ran and ran like crap then died. Any thoughts. Was it plugging the VOES or was it just a coincidence?

mikuni 45 hsr carb
stock air clearner
Ultima 113"

 

[frisco-rigid]

Hi Man

If I understand you correct,, when you installed motor you decided to run Without the VOES and you plugged the Carb or manifold fitting meant for the VOES,,,,,, yes..???

Ok, then you noticed the plug was missing and re-plugged the fitting.......

Is that correct,,,,,, the plug will often blow off if it is Not secured with a small tie-wrap when the motor coughs/Backfires through the carb..

If you originally timed the motor with the Voes Not in use and the fitting plugged, then all woulda been fine until the plug blows off..
After the plug blows off there woulda been an enormous Intake Leak causing real poor running..
Because of that I am stumped as to why it ran BAD after you replaced the plug..

The fact that it ran with the choke engaged and then died after you Dis-engaged the choke indicates a Very Lean condition caused either by poor tuning Or an Intake Leak..
I'm not sure what the coincidence is if there IS one..

If this was my prob, with the info you've provided,, this is what I'd do..
First, I'd get it running, with the Voes fitting plugged if that's what you wish, and search for an intake leak..
If found well heck,,, that could solve the prob..

If prob is Not solved, I would time the motor again with Voes fitting plugged..
If the motor was timed originally with the Voes connected and it becomes Dis-connected, the Ign. will retard and cause poor running sooo, after you replaced the plug and it began running Bad is making as Lil sense to me as it is to you..

Look for an intake leak and then time it again also, at the very least you'll eliminate those items..

Go here and read how I time my motors,, real easy and No oil in the face..
Go to the last post in that thread..

http://www.aimag.com/forums/harley-ignition-harley-electrics/555-eating-plugs-2.html

 

[Hot Sauce]

Frisco,

Yes to everything. You nailed it bro. I will take a peek at that link when I get home, it is blocked here at work. Hope I can get it running. I was planning on taking it to the EasyRider show this Saturday.

Thanks.

 

[frisco-rigid]

Hey Hot

I woulda bet you're the kinda guy that'll jump onto the prob once you get a direction to roll to,,,, if for no other reason than to eliminate the crap,, good man..

If it's simply what we've discussed and nothing More ominous,, well heck,,,, you'll be riding waaaay before Saturday..

Have a ball Buck-a-roo

 

[Hot Sauce]

Hey Hot

I woulda bet you're the kinda guy that'll jump onto the prob once you get a direction to roll to,,,, if for no other reason than to eliminate the crap,, good man..

If it's simply what we've discussed and nothing More ominous,, well heck,,,, you'll be riding waaaay before Saturday..

Have a ball Buck-a-roo

Well thanks for your vote of confidence, but....how to do I figure this out? "search for an intake leak..If found well heck,,, that could solve the prob.."

How do I search and where? And most of all, if it is a leak how do I fix it? I know, loaded question.

 

[frisco-rigid]

Hi Hot

Start the motor and try to get it to behave at a steady idle..

I use Carb Cleaner like Berrymans or CRC etc. but you use whatever you choose.. Some guys use WD-40, some use starter fluid (I would not recommend that) some use gas and on & on..
Carb Cleaner is made to spray into the motor without probs..

With the long spray tube, shoot a gentle spray at the Manifold Intake seals where they join up to the heads and around the carb to Manifold connection from the right side of motor..
Are you using the rubber boot from carb to manifold.?

Spray the VOES fitting/s, plugged or not..
There might be Two Voes fittings, the one on back of the Mik And there might be one on top of the manifold,,,,, spray everywhere Un-metered Air can poss get into the party..
Those plugs not only Blow off but also develop cracks/splits too..

If you detect a rise or fall in the Rpm's,,, usually a Fall in R's with Carb Cleaner,,, you will have found the leak..

Most often you can get most all area's from the right side but,, if you spray from the Left side you chance getting over-spray into the Carb A-C and the resulting Fall in R's will give a False reading..

If I absolutely Must spray from the Left side I remove the A-C and place a Looong cardboard tube into the carb mouth that fits tightly and prevents any spray from getting into the carb..
It even fits Outside the Mikuni Idle Jet opening...............

Now,, if you detect an Intake leak at the Manifold seals well, you gotta remove the carb and the manifold and simply change the seals..
If you find a leak at the Carb to manifold connect, you gotta change the boot or whatever set-up you're running..
There's Nothing wrong with the Mikuni spigot manifold I simply use a diff style to mount my Miks..

Obviously it was Not an empty "vote of confidence" cuz look,,,, you are ready to master this prob ya simply needed a wee more info on How.. Yeah baby....!!

Head em up, move em out