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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, My 2006 sreaming eagle vrod has problems starting.
It use to not start if i didn't ride the bike every 3-4 days, now it wont start.
The battery is only 2 years old. (my second battery in 3 years)
When i not riding the vrod i leave it attached to the battery tender.
The multimeter reads between 12.7 to 13.4 and when i try to start the bike it turns slowly for a second then just goes click click click like a flat battery.
I have to jump start the bike from my car, and i go for a good ride then as soon as i stop, the same thing happens when i try to start the bike it turns slowly for a second then just goes click click click like a flat battery.
I even took battery out and put on a battery charger till it read charged but same thing happened.
I rang bike shop and they suggested checking earth straps on frame and battery but all ok.
Next they said i need a new battery!!! but the bikes battery is still reading 12.7 on the multimeter.
Has anyone else had this problem? and fixed it???
 

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Remove the grounds. Don't look at them, remove the three of them, wire brush and reattach to torque spec. Especially pay attention to the ground coming off that regulator. The other two are on the heads.

After that is completed, start the thing up. Use the throttle lock to hold 2000 RPM or so. Measure the voltage on the battery. Should be 13.8 to 14.2 which will let you know the charging circuit is doing its job. It does no good to measure prior to cleaning those grounds as there is often enough corrosion to cause a voltage drop across the grounds making batteries look bad, voltage regulators look bad, and stators look bad.

While you have the top off and after the run check for voltage from the charging circuit. Restart the bike and throttle lock to about 2000 RPMs.

Measure the voltage from the negative battery terminal to the engine. Make sure it is less than 0.12 Volts if not you have either still got corrosion on the connection, or your battery cable is corroding and needs replaced.

These grounds are the cause of so many battery replacements, stators replacements and voltage regulator replacements that are actually not bad it is a shame.
 

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Remove the grounds. Don't look at them, remove the three of them, wire brush and reattach to torque spec. Especially pay attention to the ground coming off that regulator. The other two are on the heads.

After that is completed, start the thing up. Use the throttle lock to hold 2000 RPM or so. Measure the voltage on the battery. Should be 13.8 to 14.2 which will let you know the charging circuit is doing its job. It does no good to measure prior to cleaning those grounds as there is often enough corrosion to cause a voltage drop across the grounds making batteries look bad, voltage regulators look bad, and stators look bad.

While you have the top off and after the run check for voltage from the charging circuit. Restart the bike and throttle lock to about 2000 RPMs.

Measure the voltage from the negative battery terminal to the engine. Make sure it is less than 0.12 Volts if not you have either still got corrosion on the connection, or your battery cable is corroding and needs replaced.

These grounds are the cause of so many battery replacements, stators replacements and voltage regulator replacements that are actually not bad it is a shame.
This should be made into a sticky.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi, I cleaned up the grounds, still had to jump start off the car.
Checked charging system is fine.
Measure the voltage from the negative battery terminal to the engine and got no reading.
Taken both ground leads off (The battery to head lead & the Engine to Frame lead which is under the rear of the bike) and going to buy a new pair of leads.
Will try again once put new ground leads on.
 

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How did you verify the charging system is working?

Does it have secruity? That wouldn't explain it not starting the same day, but maybe after a few days of being parked, if the battery was weak.

Most times when they click it indicates weak battery or loose battery cable.

The battery reads 13.4 when? It should 12.7, when it is not running and been sitting. Should read 14.4 when being reved up.

Why are you on your second battery? Cheap batteries? I have gotten over 7 years on 3 Harley batteries. Is the volt reg bad and frying the battery? Does it sit alot? Which shouldn't matter if you have it on a battery tender. Do you have it on a defective tender that is over charging it?

Have you had any bulbs blow for the blinkers or running lights?

Have you checked the AC output from the stator? You need to look up how many volts it is supposed to put out per RPMs.

Are you in some really hot area, that is cooking the batteries?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just waiting on new ground leads, Harley custom shop making new set heavy duty as the ones i removed are thin compared to the latest vrods
once i get them installed:
1) I will give the reading from the multimeter
2) I will then fire the bike up again (be it jump start!!!), Use the throttle lock to hold 2000 RPM and give the reading from the multimeter
3) Yes bike has security system
4) 1st Battery that came with bike when i bought it from Harley Dealer would go flat if i didn't start the bike within 5 days (didn't have battery tender then), took bike to shop after 6 months and they replaced (at my cost) a new battery.
New battery did the same if i didn't start the bike within 5 days/ then 3days and finally dead battery. So i took New battery back to shop and they tested battery which they managed to charge up fine.
Then they sold me the battery tender which i use all the time.
Still same problem but it has since gotten worse over the last 18 months, NOW bike turns slowly for a second then just goes click click click like a flat battery. Battery is sitting on 12.7 according to the multimeter.
Bike shop wants it back to check over again but i sick of them. (They recommending another Battery)
5) No bulbs blowing
6) In moderate area for temp (Australia) low 16 - high 30

Note// I didnt have this problem with my 2000 Wideglide, I could leave it for weeks and it would start no problems. (still got it now from 2000)
 

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I have heard of secruity systems draining batteries. 5 days seem pretty quick though. I don't have a system, so I don't know. I just remember some people saying they have to keep theirs on a tender.

But that does not explain why you so much trouble starting, right after riding. Bike it is not charging the battery, battery is not taking a charge. Whether it is equipment failure or loose connects is the question.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Latest update:
Attached new HEAVY DUTY ground leads (both battery to head and frame to engine).

Battery Tender connected for at least 12hours,
then disconnected.
1) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 8pm: 13.11v
2) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 9pm: 12.79v
3) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 11pm: 12.77v

Connect Battery Tender now.
4) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 12am: 13.24v
5) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 7am: 13.11v

Disconnect Battery Tender now at 7am.
Turn key on to try start (Just turn over real slow and not start then clicking)

Jump start from Car - success - Disconnect jumper leads from car.

6) Multimeter reading with BIKE RUNNING @ 2000 revs at 7.30am: 14.36v

7) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 7.40am: 13.07v

Turn key on to try start (Just turn over real slow and not start then clicking)
8) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 7.45am: 12.61v

9) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 8am: 12.7v
10) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 8.30am: 12.7v

Off to buy new Multimeter, six pack of Beer and T-Bones for Lunch
(Why waltz when ya can Rock n Roll)
 

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Stator is ok. Voltage reg is ok. Battery does not have a bad cell. Multimeter tells us that.

I am thinking we need to look at the start relay.

I think you can swap the fan relay with the start relay.

There was also a problem with the feed wires coming to the start relay loosening up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Back again....
Connected the Battery tender and i just brushed the handlebars and got little shocks, so i touched the footpegs and anywhere metal and still got little shocks.
Disconnected Battery tender and no shocks or at least didn't feel any.
So am i correct that it must have a short somewhere in the system???
 

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Check the starter solenoid wire to see if it is loose. We have got to be chasing a loose wire in the high current side of the starter system.
 

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The solenoid should be on the fan shroud directly in front of the dip stick.
 

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Battery Tender connected for at least 12hours,
then disconnected.
1) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 8pm: 13.11v
2) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 9pm: 12.79v
3) Multimeter reading with key OFF and no security at 11pm: 12.77v

)
I don't know what the exact times would be, but this seems normal. Though I would be curious what the reading is in 12, or 24 hours, should be close to 12.7, though over 12, and I'd expect it to still start. Older batteries may not stay at 12.7.

I'd want to know what it reads in 3-4 days, which is when you say doesn't start.
 

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I have a similar problem. 06 stree glide. When trying to start , turns over slow, then click click. Clutch cable was real hot. So i took off the left handelbar controls. And it starts rite up.
Ended up a short in the radio controls. Try unpluging the controls to see what you have
 

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Am I correct the bike starts fine, when only parked for a day, or few hours? If so you would think battery, or something is cause a slow draw.

You could disconnect the battery when not riding, and see if it starts fine. Ya PIA I know. Does't tell us for sure there is draw that shouldn't be there though, could tell us the battery just can't handle the draw.

If you can disconnect the secruity and still start it, I'd be curious.
 

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Just making sure you swapped the two gray relays. The black relay is the system relay.

31511-01B RELAY, black, w/diode


31522-00C RELAY, gray w/diode (2)

These are the part numbers on the relays. I know you swapped. Just want to make sure it was the two gray ones.
 

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While I have my manual out. This is your start solenoid replacement part # is 71474-01 for around $45.
 

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So you know your security system will run for 30 days or more and a vrod will still start.

Since the voltage readings show the charge circuit is working and battery is fine (they replaced your battery needlessly) the last 7 to 10 years unless a used badly or replaced because a tech is to lazy to find the real problem.

We need to find which component is causing the loose of current flow.
 

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Are you comfortable jumpering across the start solenoid heavy terminals?

Want to know of the positive voltage is getting there.

I threw my vrod on the table, so I can help you work through this if you wish.
 
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