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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody,

I’m trying to figure out what would be a better choice of cam for my bike, since with the SE 260 below the 3500 rpm mark, the bike is a shame. I consistently find myself revving it way to high to bring it to life. I wish I had founded this site before; for sure the selection of cam for my build would have been different :duh?: .

My configuration is as follows: 103” SE flywheel, SE HTCC CNC ported heads (w/cr), Forged HTCC stroker pistons, forged rocker supports, roller rockers, SE tappets, high tensile studs, a 260 stick, Thunderheader, SE A/C and SERT. The bike is a Heritage Softail 2002 (balanced engine).

On the other hand, since nobody around here (Dominican Republic) have the experience installing gear driven cams, I’m afraid I must stick to the chain drive cams. Having read a lot of posts on this topic from members with much more knowledge than I would ever have, I picked some alternatives and all your comments, feedback or advise on this will be highly appreciated:

SE 257
SE 251… the grind seems a lot like woods TW-8G
Crane HTC-290-2
Crane HTC-296-2
Are there any chain drive Wood cams available?

Thanks in advance for your help. Ride hard :chopper: ,

Tacho
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just to bring it up... I'm drowning here and will highly appreciate some help!!!

Thanks,

Tacho
 

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Hellbound Train
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Sorry dude, missed your first post. Since your build matches mine perfectly and I am VERY happy with the results (see my signature) I will only recommend one cam SE-257
 

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csoday said:
Sorry dude, missed your first post. Since your build matches mine perfectly and I am VERY happy with the results (see my signature) I will only recommend one cam SE-257

Love my 257's in my build. I have tried 211, and 253 cams. The 257 is by far better torque pull for me. I am changing to gear this weekend, but recommend the 257's as well:thumbsup:
 

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A cheap option may be to try a 4 degree advance gear for the 260 cams. With that much compression it will make the 260's look more like 258's which run great in 103's.
 

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Tw 60'S

I have a real nice set of TW 60's:banana: that are andrews verson of the 257's I removed from my twin cam that were used on a dyno breakin. They were replaced with a set of 37'Gs. I have the andrews gears, new chain and lifters as a set:woohoo: :woohoo: . If you think that will help you out. I didn't like the lumpy idle :huh: I dynoed 93 Hp with them and no tuning what so ever. I have the dyno sheet if you would like to see how the cams perform. :xhere: JJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for your feedback guys, definitely this site is a great source of knowledge … :cheers:

Wow Chuck those are some impressive numbers, as well as yours rdking. I suppose that neither of you are running the canned map that comes with the SERT, aren’t you?

Right now I’m leaning towards SE 257, and maybe 3.37 gearing.

Big Time, may be it is a dumb question, but how can the timing of the cams be advanced 4°? I’ve heard it is a common practice with the gear driven cams, and it is an already advanced key available, but how can be correctly measured the advance of a chain driven cam?:huh:

Anyway, thanks a lot for your time and advise.

Ride hard,

Tacho
 

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James Johnson said:
I have a real nice set of TW 60's:banana: that are andrews verson of the 257's I removed from my twin cam that were used on a dyno breakin. They were replaced with a set of 37'Gs. I have the andrews gears, new chain and lifters as a set:woohoo: :woohoo: . If you think that will help you out. I didn't like the lumpy idle :huh: I dynoed 93 Hp with them and no tuning what so ever. I have the dyno sheet if you would like to see how the cams perform. :xhere: JJ
Actually the Andrews TW67 is the sister to the 257. Comes in chain or gear drive.
 

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Hellbound Train
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TachoG said:
Wow Chuck those are some impressive numbers, as well as yours rdking. I suppose that neither of you are running the canned map that comes with the SERT, aren’t you?

Right now I’m leaning towards SE 257, and maybe 3.37 gearing.
Tacho
Definetly not. A canned map no matter how close it seems to be to your build in my opinion is a generic map and engine builds no matter how closely copied are not generic. Components vary in form and fit and each builder uses different techniques and tricks that they have learned over the years. Two different engines rebuilt using an exact componnent list can give you different results. Add to that the following: My pipes are about the same as those or this cam grind seems to match that cam grind or better yet, they both have "ported" heads. Still think you have an identical build?
In my opinion a generic map is good for engine break in only. With my build and the generic map I got 104/109. The bike ran strong and would have made most people happy, but I knew there was more to be had. After the break in, 3 hours on the Dyno ($180) got me 112/121. Why spend time and money on a build and then cut cost on the tuning.
 
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