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2005 Road King Classic
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2,649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody put in a internal (1-1/2 to 1-3/4") belt drive primary on a touring bike? If so, what brand and how is it working now? Any problems? Did you install it yourself? Changes in mileage or vibration?

Thanks
 

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Although I run a Belt primary, mine is the 3" Open. The enclosed ones never seemed to hold up well and now bikes have even more power. Unless they have changed the quality of the belts, I wouldn't use anything less than a 3". I know others will say they have had good luck with them etc.... But I have not and this is based on my own personal experiences.
 

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Harleys only attempt at a belt primary was very problematic and they let it fade away with the sturges.Your luck with a narrow belt primary will most likely not be any better and you would also need to change to a dry clutch.-2$en#e-
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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2,649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
springer- said:
Although I run a Belt primary, mine is the 3" Open. The enclosed ones never seemed to hold up well and now bikes have even more power. Unless they have changed the quality of the belts, I wouldn't use anything less than a 3". I know others will say they have had good luck with them etc.... But I have not and this is based on my own personal experiences.
My bike is pretty much stock but I do have an exhaust planned and have put on an A/C. When you ran a narrow belt. Do you remember the brand or type of belt material that was used? How long ago did you have the smaller belt?

Thanks
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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2,649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
wvwayne said:
Harleys only attempt at a belt primary was very problematic and they let it fade away with the sturges.Your luck with a narrow belt primary will most likely not be any better and you would also need to change to a dry clutch.-2$en#e-
What is wrong with a dry clutch? Cars use them. I'm not into racing. I just use the bike as my preferred method of transportation. Make sales calls with it.
 

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I've got about 10,000 miles on a BDL belt drive and clutch.
No problems but you have to relief a few ribs on the inside of the primary cover.
You also need to vent the primary. I replaced the inspection cover w/one made with open grate.Then used chrome spacers and longer bolts to stand off the clutch cover.Seems to work great. Clutch adj.seems more critical,but once it was dialed in,and I got used to the 9 spring clutch,it works better than the oem.
It's also nice not to have to deal with the oil if you want to pull the primary cover for any reason,at home and on the road.
I like it.
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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2,649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
shinbone1028 said:
I've got about 10,000 miles on a BDL belt drive and clutch.
No problems but you have to relief a few ribs on the inside of the primary cover.
You also need to vent the primary. I replaced the inspection cover w/one made with open grate.Then used chrome spacers and longer bolts to stand off the clutch cover.Seems to work great. Clutch adj.seems more critical,but once it was dialed in,and I got used to the 9 spring clutch,it works better than the oem.
It's also nice not to have to deal with the oil if you want to pull the primary cover for any reason,at home and on the road.
I like it.
That is the one I am looking at. What model and year of bike is your's on? Do you have a picture of what you did for the venting? Did you pull the drain plug out also for venting? Did you install it? If so, did the kit supply all the parts needed for aligning it properly?
 

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I want an open belt drive so bad....gotta have it....

Are there any maintenance issues with the open belt?
 

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Infidel
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michael101 said:
I want an open belt drive so bad....gotta have it....

Are there any maintenance issues with the open belt?

Only the one where you repair the damage to your bike becasue your pant leg got stuck in the open primary and pulled you off your bike. :laugh:
 

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Not suggesting that you don't do it, but what is it that your trying to improve by switching to a Belt?

An M-16 hydraulic primary chain tensioner is available to easily replace your stock unit and it will elimate any sloppyness in your chain due to tight and loose spots on the sprockets.
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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2,649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
wyodude said:
Only the one where you repair the damage to your bike becasue your pant leg got stuck in the open primary and pulled you off your bike. :laugh:
When I was working in TN in 2004 I could always get a good laugh by talking with the locals.
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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2,649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
fxrflh said:
Not suggesting that you don't do it, but what is it that your trying to improve by switching to a Belt?

An M-16 hydraulic primary chain tensioner is available to easily replace your stock unit and it will elimate any sloppyness in your chain due to tight and loose spots on the sprockets.
Reducing the rotating mass will reduce vibration and propel me quicker to the speed I wish to attain. All without a SERT, PCIII, etc etc etc
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
MegaGlide said:
Good luck with that.
Good Luck as in how?

The rotating mass will be reduced. So what part do I need the luck on?
 

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wyodude said:
Only the one where you repair the damage to your bike becasue your pant leg got stuck in the open primary and pulled you off your bike. :laugh:

Hey, maybe I should start riding in shorts and white tennis shoes like some of the new gen. real bikers do......
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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2,649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
michael101 said:
Hey, maybe I should start riding in shorts and white tennis shoes like some of the new gen. real bikers do......
Okay getting back to the topic.
 

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wkohn said:
That is the one I am looking at. What model and year of bike is your's on? Do you have a picture of what you did for the venting? Did you pull the drain plug out also for venting? Did you install it? If so, did the kit supply all the parts needed for aligning it properly?

2000 Nightrain.My bike had over50000 mile on when I upgraded cams,carb and exhaust.After the mods,I couldn't get the clutch adjusted,it either slipped or was fully engaged,no in between.Put in some new discs,same.I needed to upgrade.After pricing,the whole kit was cheaper than a Barnett and others.My indy(who installed it) runs it on his customs and said they handle 100+ hp with no problem.All the parts were there. I have replaced the input shaft seal since then, when I replaced my rotor.I did all this right before a 5000 mile trip, and spent the first week of three repairing something every day.A dry clutch is wonderful in those situations.
I do leave the drain plug out,mainly for draining,don't know if it does any venting...maybe.If I see an oil spot from there,I know I need a seal.
Don't have a digital camera,just picture a 1/2" chrome spacer between the clutch cover and primary cover at every bolt.The inspection cover I got from J&P..or Custom Chrome,they both have pictures.I painted mine black.
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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2,649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
shinbone1028 said:
2000 Nightrain.My bike had over50000 mile on when I upgraded cams,carb and exhaust.After the mods,I couldn't get the clutch adjusted,it either slipped or was fully engaged,no in between.Put in some new discs,same.I needed to upgrade.After pricing,the whole kit was cheaper than a Barnett and others.My indy(who installed it) runs it on his customs and said they handle 100+ hp with no problem.All the parts were there. I have replaced the input shaft seal since then, when I replaced my rotor.I did all this right before a 5000 mile trip, and spent the first week of three repairing something every day.A dry clutch is wonderful in those situations.
I do leave the drain plug out,mainly for draining,don't know if it does any venting...maybe.If I see an oil spot from there,I know I need a seal.
Don't have a digital camera,just picture a 1/2" chrome spacer between the clutch cover and primary cover at every bolt.The inspection cover I got from J&P..or Custom Chrome,they both have pictures.I painted mine black.
Thanks, Looks like I have more research to do.
 

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>>> The Curmudgeon <<<
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352 Posts
wkohn said:
Reducing the rotating mass will reduce vibration and propel me quicker to the speed I wish to attain. All without a SERT, PCIII, etc etc etc
Hmmmm. Well, I appreciate the fact that you're thinking for yourself, anyway.
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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2,649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
barrybasinger said:
Hmmmm. Well, I appreciate the fact that you're thinking for yourself, anyway.
Barry,

How have you been? As you can see I am still researching the changes for the bike.

Bill
 
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