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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had my stator replaced at 5000 Kmiles in warranty. Now bike has 25K I just installed the kouryakin volt reader and changed the battery because it did not hold charge well. New battery is sealed: I cannot read it with electrolitic analyzer and I dont have a load volt tester. But it seems to me that batt is stil weak. Wile riding i read 14 full volts output on the gauge. But as soon as I stop tensions goes to 11. How may I rearly check tensioner and stator and batt?
Any help is welcome
ps My be the alarm's 9 volts batt. is draining main batt???
(in Italian models, and only here in Italy, there is no way to desable allarm, it always on after 30 second you stop the bike: odd thing:confused: ).
 

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Maybe your gauge is reading incorrectly. Use a digital volt meter and check the battery voltage with the ignition off.
 

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Where it runs at 14V, I would suspect the battery is the problem. I would try a new battery before anything else, it is also the cheapest part to replace. It is possible that the regulator is overcharging the battery but that is less likely.
 

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If you have a Volt /Amp meter:
1. To test for a short to ground in the system;
a. Disconnect the (-) terminal of the Battery. (do not disconnect the (+) battery cable.)
b. Connect one lead of the Amp meter (make sure that you are in the Ohms Rx1 range) to the (-) terminal of the battery and the other to the (-) battery cable. EVERY THING MUST BE TURNED OFF. (You may half to remove the fuse for the alarm system for this to work.)
c. Check for any reading. Any reading but (0) will indicate a short to Gnd.
d. Start removing fusses one at a time till the reading goes to (0). That will be the circuit to troubleshoot for the short.
2. To test the STATOR:
a. Disconnect the Voltage regulator and place one lead of the Volt meter to the Frame (a bolt head, unpainted or a good ground) ant the other to the one of the one of the female pins in the socket on the engine. (The meter should be in the Ohms Rx1 range) Again their should be NO reading (0 Ohms) any reading from either pin to Gnd indicates a bad STATOR.
b. Start the Bike and connect the meter ( now in the Volt AC range) across both female pins in the socket on the engine. You should read 32-40 Volts at 2000 RPM (16-20 Volts at 1000 RPM) If not STATOR is Bad.


When this happened to me ( Bad Stator) I lost the battery about a month later. After replacing it everything was OK.

Kenney
 

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Kenney said:
If you have a Volt /Amp meter:
1. To test for a short to ground in the system;
a. Disconnect the (-) terminal of the Battery. (do not disconnect the (+) battery cable.)
b. Connect one lead of the Amp meter (make sure that you are in the Ohms Rx1 range) to the (-) terminal of the battery and the other to the (-) battery cable. EVERY THING MUST BE TURNED OFF. (You may half to remove the fuse for the alarm system for this to work.)
Never use a meter in series with a battery in the Ohms range, damage to the meter can/will occur.

Kenney said:
c. Check for any reading. Any reading but (0) will indicate a short to Gnd.
d. Start removing fusses one at a time till the reading goes to (0). That will be the circuit to troubleshoot for the short.
In a OHM meter (0) will indicate a short and any reading other than (0) will indicate resistance or an open. Infinite Ohms indicates and open circuit. In your example, removing a fuse to a shorted circuit would cause the meter to go from (0) to infinite reading, just the opposite of what you said.

Kenney said:
2. To test the STATOR:
a. Disconnect the Voltage regulator and place one lead of the Volt meter to the Frame (a bolt head, unpainted or a good ground) ant the other to the one of the one of the female pins in the socket on the engine. (The meter should be in the Ohms Rx1 range) Again their should be NO reading (0 Ohms) any reading from either pin to Gnd indicates a bad STATOR.
b. Start the Bike and connect the meter ( now in the Volt AC range) across both female pins in the socket on the engine. You should read 32-40 Volts at 2000 RPM (16-20 Volts at 1000 RPM) If not STATOR is Bad.


When this happened to me ( Bad Stator) I lost the battery about a month later. After replacing it everything was OK.

Kenney
He has a 2003 FXD and the regulator has 3 pins on it. NONE of the pins should show a short to ground, (0) on the meter. All 3 pins should show infinite resistance to ground (no meter reading at all). Then check the pins to each other and they should read 0.1 to 0.2 Ohms. If you get any pins that read infinite (no meter reading) to another pin OR if you have any pins that read a short to ground, the stator is bad.


With all that said, I would check the battery first as mentioned above. If you want to check the stator and regulator, get a HD service manual and follow the instructions in it.

Sorry Kenney, I know you are trying to be helpful and I certainly don't want to discourage that but I don't know what your qualifications are and maybe there is a terminology problem but I wouldn't do any of what you suggested. I have a background in electronics and have wired custom bikes as well as troubleshoot many electrical problems and your advice has many flaws.

I hope you don't take it personally and continue to participate in the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
tankyou kenny for your's explanation, springer You are right, mine is a 2003. You have beeen both very helpfull. I have a cheap analogical meter, and a quick reading led one. But can afford a better one. I too suspect the battery, when I bought it and prepared as per instruction I let it on accumate charger, before installig, for a whole night and after that it showed 12 volts, whilst a good new one should goes up to 13, in my mind. Now I let it with alarm armed and whant to ceck if power drops more in few hours. It is an ashame I cannot test perform the chemical test as with the old lead ones, cell by cell.
 

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Springer: None taken, Not everyone is clear when typing. You did find a mistake when I said check the Amp draw to Gnd in the Ohms range. It should have been Amp range.
The (2) pins on the Stator; I was taking the information from a 99 FLSTC.

Will be more careful next time.
Thanks for clearing this up for "motardue"

Kenny
 
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