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is there any shops that do an overhaul rebuild ect that ballences the elcetraglide motors like harley does the B motors? I love my Electraglide classic but hate that dam paint mixer shakein goin on. I mean other bike makers do why cant Harley. I would be interested in gettin my 96in 2008 motor rebuilt and ballenced. I really think it would make the electraglide a great bike.
I am retired and am starting to do long mile touring and want a smoother bike but the Electraglides are wonderfully comfortable the worst about them is this dam shakeing apart crap!
I hate to buy a new one but I really am sic of this shakeing stupidity. hell Ive even been told they engineer that shake into the bike. bull capppp. they dont finish their product down to enough to get it out on the A motors and they do on the B motors.
anyone know of a shop that does this kind of work. thanks
 

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The 'B' motors have an internal balance assembly that's gear driven off the crank. Not desirable because it's more parts to break.

Any good shop that builds motors should be able to balance your rotating assembly to get what you're after.

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what alan said... the B motors arent really balanced, they have 2 counter balancer shafts with weighted rotating assemblies times to the engines strokes by about 8 feet of bicycle chain,,,, more parts to break and wear,,, and a few pounds of un needed steel spinning..

any harley motor can be balanced either old school or a dynamic spin balance (preferred), done by adding weight to or removing weight from the flywheels... they are really smooth,, even with longer strokes and higher rpm...

the engines I build are balanced,,, I believe this is one of the reasons my engines operate at higher rpm,than many,, and stay together longer,,,
an unbalanced engine is simply attempting to beat itself to death , a balanced one,, not so much..
 

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You explained it a Hell of a lot better than I did.

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There is no shops that will balance your A motor like the factory balances a B motor. (Maybe with enough money they might, but the it would be a lot more than just balancing.) There are plenty that will balance the A motor better than the factory did. Alan and Terry explained why.

There is a reason the motors are different. The A motors are rubber mounted to isolate some of the vibration. The B motor is solid mounted and relies on the counter-balance to smooth things out. In the end, the rider feels about the same result. You see the movement of the drivetrain on the A because of the rubber mounts.
 

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alan,,, I've had quite a few of them apart,,, it seems to be an inadequate system,,, especially if used on a large performance engine application. I see the whole thing coming apart at around 6000 rpm on a long pull through the gears,,, thankfully most owners of B engines dont build them that large,, and dont run them hard...

the B engine was unnecessary,,, if the moco would have just balanced the rotating assemblies,,, of the existing engines,,, rather than band aid things as they have for the last 100+ years... there would have been no B motor..

I love,, but dont like harleys,, but only ride them,,z figure that out,,, lol
 

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So could the chain and shaft be removed from a B motor and have it "balanced" up by a quality crank company?

Would that work with the solid mounts on a softail?
 

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alan,,, I dont think my explanation was better,,, yours just was more to the point... me,,, sometimes I talk too much,, and over explain many things..
Hey TT, no matter how you explain it it's still better than most.
 

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I'm sure the B engine could be balanced,,, but may cause a severe out of balance if the counter balances were left functioning...

however I'm relatively sure,, that they cancel out the engine vibrations, by creating an out of balance on the other end of the strokes of the flywheels.. rather that actually balance it..

if I had a B motor apart,, I could answer that,,, but I dont,,, maybe the next time I have one apart I'll check out the internal oil system plumbing on the tensioners (hydraulic), and post an answer..
therm may already know the answer when he comes by..
 

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I'm sure the B engine could be balanced,,, but may cause a severe out of balance if the counter balances were left functioning...

however I'm relatively sure,, that they cancel out the engine vibrations, by creating an out of balance on the other end of the strokes of the flywheels.. rather that actually balance it..

if I had a B motor apart,, I could answer that,,, but I dont,,, maybe the next time I have one apart I'll check out the internal oil system plumbing on the tensioners (hydraulic), and post an answer..
therm may already know the answer when he comes by..
Thank You appreciate your interest...
 

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is there any shops that do an overhaul rebuild ect that ballences the elcetraglide motors like harley does the B motors? I love my Electraglide classic but hate that dam paint mixer shakein goin on. I mean other bike makers do why cant Harley. I would be interested in gettin my 96in 2008 motor rebuilt and ballenced. I really think it would make the electraglide a great bike.
I am retired and am starting to do long mile touring and want a smoother bike but the Electraglides are wonderfully comfortable the worst about them is this dam shakeing apart crap!
I hate to buy a new one but I really am sic of this shakeing stupidity. hell Ive even been told they engineer that shake into the bike. bull capppp. they dont finish their product down to enough to get it out on the A motors and they do on the B motors.
anyone know of a shop that does this kind of work. thanks
Could you go into more detail regarding the shaking? Like what RPM ranges and speeds are you going while this shaking is taking place?
 

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AFAIk The Vtwin cannot be dynamically balanced.
I have an S&S system here-their approach is like all others-the vibration can be moved from Horz to vertical and or back again. .
Its percentage game , usually 60% rule
The only exception to this law was T&O they had another secret trick -But Bonnie is no longer there-
and a bunch honyocks run the place.
 

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the v rwins can be balanced,,, however the odd firing 315° and 405° will still cause a little shake,, until you get the revs up,,,
all out of balance conditions happen at specific rpm,,, bob hoh balanced every engine he built,,, however it took more knowledge to do so,, than any dozen of today's wonder techs...combined..
 

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That motor is balanced from Harley. What you cant change no matter how much money you throw at it is the shake that the A motors have. Sell it and go find either a newer bike with one of the newer style smooth motors or go out & buy an older EVO motor. Which will also vibrate more than a new style motor. One thing you cant do is throw or even Truck in enough money to stop an A motor from its shaking. Dont waste your money.
Balancing will eliminate most of the vibrations. The shake really is built in.
So keep your OLD bike = Money, Money Money + Shake....
Buy a NEWER bike = Money + No shake!
It's your money. You spend it your way
 

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AFAIk The Vtwin cannot be dynamically balanced.
I have an S&S system here-their approach is like all others-the vibration can be moved from Horz to vertical and or back again. .
Its percentage game , usually 60% rule
The only exception to this law was T&O they had another secret trick -But Bonnie is no longer there-
and a bunch honyocks run the place.
the v rwins can be balanced,,, however the odd firing 315° and 405° will still cause a little shake,, until you get the revs up,,,
all out of balance conditions happen at specific rpm,,, bob hoh balanced every engine he built,,, however it took more knowledge to do so,, than any dozen of today's wonder techs...combined..
Its why I am here to learn from the guys that have been doing this for decades. Late starter so don't have a full decade under my belt yet. Hear hear to troged sticking around.
 

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B motors idle smooth but buzz at highway speeds. So badly, that rumor has it that some transmission dip sticks have broken.
 

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B motors idle smooth but buzz at highway speeds. So badly, that rumor has it that some transmission dip sticks have broken.
I've never felt a buzzy B-motor. Maybe if one's beat to hell and the crank is scissored and it's knocked out of whack then yea, but not well maintained one.
 

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any Harley engine can do any weird thing it decides to do,,, there are no,, set in stone rules,,, sorry,,, or you can get one that just works right...
 

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The builder of the motor makes a huge difference.

I'll recut my seats to match all of my value stem protrusions the same or as close as I can get, and I try and get my valve spring pressures all the same at the install spring hight by shimming up of cutting the pocket down. If i can get them matched pretty close usually, 9 times out of 10 they are pretty close when I compress them with the total lift at the valve.

I usually don't follow cam specs, rather I measure the base circle of the cam, then from the base to the tip of the lobe and subtract those from each other, and then times it by the rocker arm ratio. In the 18 years of been building and learning, never is the number exactly what they say it is, close, but rare is exact.

I fit all my stems to guides by feel. I start on the tight side, and ball hone them till they drag the same, the same feel and drag similar to measuring, but not that tight of course.

CC your cylinder heads, nobody does this anymore, I do.

setting your ring lands and gaps, piston fitment in cylinder, taper and out of round, will cause differences in piston speed.. and rocking of the piston in the cylinder.

Cam chain and sprockets alignments, getting bearings squared up in there bore, I know it sounds crazy but it happens..


Fly wheel set up.. 100% game changer, end play, flywheel trueness, and balance they can be dynamically balance, drilled and filled counterbalanced to rods and pistons. Nobody does that...

Exhaust systems play a role in this, with cam design, especially when using over lap to increase volumetric efficiency. By having both valves open at the same time, the vacuum of the exhaust making its exit can help draw in more air/fuel, but the system itself can cause weird effects with pulses I' the tract, bouncing around.

Also, something I do and there is a bulletin about this some place, but I loosen all my engine mounts and exhaust systems on some models/most models and start the bike, and idle it abit then shut it off, and re-torque all the fasteners.. Check the swing-arm bearings they go up and down just as bad as side to side, and while Im thinking about it, the aluminum transmission housing is soft metal compared to the steel of the pivot, its usually a hot dog in a hallway and sorely over looked when adding on the fancy stuff.

Accessories on the bike, broken saddle bag support rails, fairing brackets, handle bar bushings, floating rotors...

Their are so many possible ways to create imbalance at idle or freeway speeds

Set up set up set up. I could go on and on about it, but this is what it boils down to.

You can give 2 techs/builders the same bike and same parts, and Ill bet you every penny in my bank till payday my engine will always run quieter, cooler, and make more horsepower every single time.
 
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