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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy y'all,

Long time, no talk since I left Switzerland to return home in the USA.
I have been lurking out here occasionally reading the board. Mostly busy re-building a new life and work.

Gentlemen, my bike has been running pretty good since my return to the States once I re-tuned it for lower altitude and lower octane gasoline. Recently added Progressive shocks front and back for a much firmer ride. Strapping her down for the ship-ride from Europe pretty much crushed /mushed the shocks I had on her.

So after a few days riding the hill country outside of San Antonio TX (3 Twisted Sisters) on the way back to Houston "Spot" decides she doesn't want to go anywhere and pukes out primary oil and trans oil.
Great!
At least she was kind enough to wait until I was pulling off the main Hwy into a Buckee's fuel station. (Thoughtful)

So, after an inglorious ride home on a flatbed truck directly in front of all my neighbors in the street maintaining strict social drinking distance, I ripped her apart. (Pictures attached)

Has anyone ever seen something like this?
To me it appears that the main sprocket splines have all been ripped out causing the free-spin on the primary with no power transmitted into the transmission. (Also a Baker 6 speed)
The Trans main-shaft nut was still tight. I used an impact to back it off.
One of the locking nut plate screws seems to have snapped off and that's what gouged out the inside of the inner primary case the other screw was still there holding the main-shaft nut in place.

So it really looks like the Baker replacement sprocket just stripped out.
The splines on the transmission main-shaft still look good once I used a full bottle of de-greaser and a wire brush to clean up all the puke she spit out everywhere.

So far, with the tow and a new inner primary case on the way (Using a Drag Specialties chrome inner primary) Less expensive than the Black OEM part I am already at $500 Seals, and gaskets need to be replaced, all the fluids, etc...

Not to mention an new main sprocket.

My question is, any experience with this before and any good recommendations for a new main sprocket?
Any problems from the Drag Specelties inner primary case?

Thank God I have the place, tools and time to sort this disaster out. This would have really Su%&'d if I was far away from home on a tour somewhere.
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That what it looks like to me.

The sprocket is softer than the main drive gear, so in theory the gear is fine. But do measure it and compare it to a new one, theory doesn't always hold up.

I have to say, my pile of failed parts from those people is much larger than it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Thermodyne,
I was wondering is anyone would reply.

The splines on the transmission main-shaft look fine.
How would I compare my transmission main-shaft with a new one? Just measure the OD with a micrometer?
The Baker sprocket is TOAST.

Just wondering if I need to replace the large seal behind the sprocket? It looked ok, but man I sure don't want to tear it all down again just for a seal.
 
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Just wondering if I need to replace the large seal behind the sprocket? It looked ok, but man I sure don't want to tear it all down again just for a seal.
If it's leaking, you'll know it while it's down. The normal oil level is above the seal. If the spacer doesn't have a groove worn in it, you should be good.

I pulled my seal to replace and immediately had to scramble for a pan to catch the fluid. That was a Kodak moment.

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks Thermodyne,
I was wondering is anyone would reply.

The splines on the transmission main-shaft look fine.
How would I compare my transmission main-shaft with a new one? Just measure the OD with a micrometer?
The Baker sprocket is TOAST.

Just wondering if I need to replace the large seal behind the sprocket? It looked ok, but man I sure don't want to tear it all down again just for a seal.
There is no published spec on the splines that I know of. I just measure an old pull and compare.

There are four seals that you can replace with little more effort. But putting them in without the seal tools is a crap shoot at best.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea....

So letting it all set in the garage, the large transmission seal is weeping on the bottom. It needs to be replaced..
No I don't have a seal install tool for that..... Maybe a 3/4" thick round piece of Teflon with a center hole drilled out about the same size as the main-shaft race? Heat/warm the transmission casing with a heat gun and lube and cool the seal and try and press it in squarely using the makeshift Teflon seal press with patience and tiny taps of a light mallet?
Other than that ….its using my fingertips to press it in.....

The other jackshaft and inner primary seals I use lubricant and a correctly sized socket to press them into place.

Besides, when it happened you could smell that heavy "burnt gear oil" smell so the transmission had to me leaking right along with the primary oil all over the place from the ruined inner primary case and seal.

Thermo the 4 seals you are referring to :??
New seal for the transmission casing, the starter jackshaft seal, the inner primary case seal.
White electrical tape on the main-shaft splines to protect the new seals during installation.
New seals for the inner primary to the engine case and the primary cover to the inner primary case.

The only seal I don't dare to attempt is the inner seal on the transmission main-shaft itself. That little one that seals in-between the main output shaft and the shaft race? I screwwd the pooch on that one before. Ugly.
Is that the 4th one you are thinking ofThermo?
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Since I have it all disassembled,
also going to replace that horseshoe oil tank with a smaller cylinder oil tank.
Which means I'll need to relocate my coil and coil support bar that reaches up from the trans casing to the bottom of the frame under the gas tank behind the rear cylinder.
Can I remove that permanently and just relocate my coil in-between my cylinders with a new hanger bracket?

SICK of ripping the back wheel off to get to the rear oil tank screws behind the inner rear fender to remove the oil tank just to access the starter bolts.
Such an unnecessary PITA just to get the inner primary casing off. Can't get the inner primary off with out removing the starter.
 

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Is that the 4th one you are thinking ofThermo?
There's the quad seal on the inside of the sprocket spacer. No tool required, but a pain in the ass too keep from leaking.

When you pull the large trans seal, check the spacer to make sure there's no groove worn from the seal. I was shocked to find a piece of rubber could wear down hardened steel.

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Do you have any slop in your shifter? There is a seal and bushing in the trans case behind shift lever where the shaft passes through. The shaft has the shifter pawl on the inside and the spring that centers your shift lever. I had to do that years ago. It took some searching to get the proper bushing as it's not shown in the parts book. There is also a special tool that makes it easy to R&R both the bushing and seal, pretty cheap even at retail price. It was a no brainer for me as my 2000 had all the old design innards and I upgraded everything to the new and improved versions at the same time as I tightened up the shifter and fixed that last leak. Boy was I happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys,

I contacted Baker with all the facts plus the actual receipts from the upgrade and nothing yet from them.
I expected better from Baker....
Starting to get annoyed ….

Will keep you posted.
 

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Reading along feeling your pain. Not liking what I'm reading re the part or lack of response. Unexpected on both. Hoping they do right by you..
 

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I had a 1st gen comp fail and they made good on it, even butted me to the front of the waiting list.

Then I had a tensioner fail, and after several attempts at contacting them, never heard a mumbling word. And that was a tensioner that was shipped without the reinforcement. I purchased a reinforcement for it, and it still failed.



 

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Looks crooked.

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Did I miss something?
I have an inner primary that looks just like that caused by the pully keeper plate screws backing out until the heads started cutting the inner primary but it nade one hell of a screeching noise.

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