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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pulled the cam cover off. I was trying to get the roll pin out without removing the cam plate. To avoid touching pushrods. I cant seem to figure out how to get the roll pin out. Do you tap it thru from the front and pull it out the back of the cam plate? Or tap it from the back and pull it out the front. Also even after I get the roll pin out the pin that holds the Primary Chain tensioner in place looks like it would be in the way of pulling out the Spring and the hollow piece that holds the spring in place. The primary chain tensioner pin goes across the hole where the pin sits so how can I get the spring out if this is hole and in the way? Do I need to remove the primary chain tensioner to pull the spring out of the hole? Manual says to remove the tensioner. I have heard you can do this without removing anything but cam cover and front exhaust. Anyone done it this way?
 

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It's really not that difficult. Here are some quick instructions for a Road King Classic:

1) Remove right side floorboard.
2) Remove right side hard bag.
3) Remove right side exhaust. (Note: It helps to spray the header flange bolts and muffler-to-header joint with a good "liquid penetrant" spray a couple of hours prior to disassembly.
4) Drain oil. Note: Not sure if this is required but I needed to change my oil anyway.
5) Remove cam cover. Note: Take care in removing cam cover screws! Mine had some type of Loctite on them and I had to work them in and out slowly until they turned freely.
6) Drive the existing roll pin out using a 1/8" pin punch. Note: Drive the roll pin out slowly and make sure you catch it when it comes out.
7) Take a small hook and pull the old spring out enough that you can roll it past the cam chain tensioner spring. Note: Getting the old spring out enough so you can spin it out can be tricky.
8) Install the new spring and roll pin. Note: It is much eaiser to have help on this step. Have one person hold the spring past the roll pin hole using a small screwdriver. The other person can drive the roll pin thru. I used a new roll pin and turned the split away from the spring.
9) Reassemble in reverse order. Note: Be extra careful while torquing the cam cover screws. It is very easy to crack your case or strip theads if you over-torque the screws. I used a quality torque wrench (Snap-On) and torqued to 95 in-lbs. using 4 passes in the order specified in the service manual. I started out at 25 in. lbs. first pass, 65 in. lbs. second pass, 95 in. lbs. third pass and check pass.
10) Don't forget to refill with oil!!!!!


This was posted a while back ( by jlight). Hope it helps! Clean out any oil that gets into the cam cover bolt holes with a Q-tip. If you leave oil in them the hydro lock can crack your case.
 

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pa-glazier said:
Clean out any oil that gets into the cam cover bolt holes with a Q-tip. If you leave oil in them the hydro lock can crack your case.
Pay close attention to this !! Very important. I spray them clean with brake clean and then absorb the brake clean out of the holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info. That will help for sure once I get the roll pin out. My problem is getting the roll pin out. Do I punch it into the cam case and pull it out from behind the cam plate? Or can I pull the pin towards me and out. That thing didnt seem to want to move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok. Just wanted to make sure. Seems like it will be tough to grab in the back but what the hell its winter. I have time to figure it out. Thanks for the help Springer.
 

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cdirk said:
Ok. Just wanted to make sure. Seems like it will be tough to grab in the back but what the hell its winter...
It's Winter? I just rode 150 miles in a sleeveless T-shirt and now I'm in my garage in shorts. It can't be Winter! :chopper:
 

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For informational purposes, it isn't a Baisley Spring. The spring part number is LMR-002 OR LMR-004. The LMR in the part number stands for "Latus Motor Racing" and is manufactured and distributed by Latus Motor Racing. Baisley is just a reseller.
 

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IronButt
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If I can add to your post Springer


The LMR -002 is the spring that will be used most. Is is for the street engines,
It is 15% increase in PSI (5 PSI approx)

The LMR-004 is used mainly for drag racing applications. Fresh builds and being punished right out of the gate. 30% on the spring.

NOTE: More is not better. Use the 002 spring for street engines.
 

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springer- said:
Pay close attention to this !! Very important. I spray them clean with brake clean and then absorb the brake clean out of the holes.
Dang it!
Now you have me worried. I just pulled my cover to inspect the tensioners. Now I'll have to pull the cover again to make sure nothing was left in the bolt holes.
I also wish I would have installed the spring while I had it apart. At least now I have a reason to go back in.
 

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Does anybody know if this is a direct only purchase from Baisely, or are there suppliers in perhaps Canada?
 

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IronButt
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Well I am in the process of removing the shoping cart, so i will list it but as for orders, give me a call or e-mail me . Thanks
 

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polishing plunger bore

FWIW, I put a bit of 600 grit sand paper in the chuck of a drill, inserted it in the plunger bore and spun it a bit to smooth the bore out and open the bore up just a shade so that the plunger moved freely without a hitch and yet not allow much oil to bypass the plunger because the bore was opened a bit too much. I just guessed at how much to do it: went by feel of the plunger friction in the bore. Then I pulled the plug in the cam support plate and washed the plate passages and therafter replaced the rubber seal on the plug and inserted the plug. I used a new roll pin.

Personally, I don't think the cam support plate bypass spring/plunger does much in a TC 88 since the bypassed oil does not dump into the cam chest like it did on EVOs, but recirculates to the pump and some goes to the filter. It seems like a nearly closed loop system to me, however some of the bypassed oil does go the filter which is not a closed loop. So, the cam support plate bypass spring activation pressure must exceed the maximum capacity of the pump pressure or you are in bypass if the bypass activation pressure is lower than the oil pump pressure (which does not seem like much of a problem to me in TC88s since the bypassed oil goes to the pump and the oil filter as opposed to the cam chest).

I put a shim in mine so that the Feuling pump pressure would not exceed the bypass activation pressure under normal operating conditions and MAYBE cause the pump to "cavitate". Otherwise, it was not a concern to me since the oil will merely bypass to the filter and get to the engine where you want it instead of the cam chest like it did on EVOs.

If you take out the cam plate, be sure to use the lowest permissible torque on the doweled bolts to prevent stripping of the case threads upon reassembly.

A lot of folks have very different ideas about this. This is what an enthusiast thinks, me.

STB
 

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i would like one of these springs i just have a set of 204's and a stage 1 in my night train 2006 i was wondering if the dealer would install these? or thay dont recomend doing it... there puttin the 204's in next week and i want this spring in there... any comments?
 

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Highly Seasoned Rider!
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STB said:
STB Said:
<snip>

Personally, I don't think the cam support plate bypass spring/plunger does much in a TC 88 since the bypassed oil does not dump into the cam chest like it did on EVOs, but recirculates to the pump and some goes to the filter.
<snip>


STB
It regulates the oil pressure.
 

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midnight sporty said:
i would like one of these springs i just have a set of 204's and a stage 1 in my night train 2006 i was wondering if the dealer would install these? or thay dont recomend doing it... there puttin the 204's in next week and i want this spring in there... any comments?
The dealers will most likely act like they know nothing of the spring. It's an aftermarket item, not available at the dealership, so they will pretend not to know about it.

I put mine in myself. It was a fairly easy job, the hardest part was removing the exhaust/shields, etc.

You will probably have to wait 'till your bike comes back from having the 204's put in, then order and install the Baisley spring.
 

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yeah but like does it give it more oil psi idling and stuff and does it also void a warrenty and how much does it cost wear can i git it? yeah i figured the dealer would know nothing and its prob better off that way haha
how do you guys like them 204/s also
 

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Your dealer should put it in for you. It will take the tech. 2 minutes to do when he has your cam plate out to do the cam change. Do a google search on Latus Motors in Portland and you can order it from them or do a search on Dan Baisley and order it from him. It ups oil pressure by about 15%. I put one in and cold idle is around 50psi, cruise when fully warm is around 40psi. It quieted my valve train noise too.
 
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