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Modern Lithium Ion battery powdered tools are simply amazing! I've been on a Milwaukee M12/M18 Fuel buying jag for a year now. They keep coming out with great new tools. And I only need 2 different batteries for over a dozen tools. :shout:


Even have a few rechargeable Dremel rotary tools on the bench.


Can't remember the last time I used an air/impact or plug-in cord power tool on a bike. No hoses or cords to get tangled or trip over. Heck , my Milwaukee LithIon 3/8 & 1/2in impacts have more power than some of my old IR~CP air-impact tools.
 

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They're great....until the battery dies. It's almost cheaper to buy another tool.

My problem with battery operated tools is infrequent use. That's the hardest thing on a battery.

Sent from my 2 Tin Cans With A String using Tapatalk
 

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I tried a few purchases about 3 years ago and today, one battery kicks out on the charger, the other battery don't hold a charge very long. I have one good battery so far from all this lithium stuff.

On every remolding job the only battery tool that lasted thru the job was my screw gun when used to drive screws down onto sheet rock. When I used any of it for heavy use like using a hole saw attachment I drained 3 lithium batteries and ended up pulling out my old plug in Black and Decker drill.

This reminds me of our talk about electric bikes pro's and con's
 

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If I understand correctly, the chemistry in these is basically the same as in the Lithium-Polymer batteries used in modern RC vehicles and also similar to full-sized electric vehicles. They all have a finite number of charge cycles and will stay healthiest with consistent use. Regarding the RC packs, leaving them in a full-charge or fully discharged state will shorten the life. If they are going to go unused for more than a week, it is recommended to keep them at a storage charge (about 50%). I have RC packs that are 4-5 yrs old and have been through many periods of non-use but always at a storage charge.

Nobody does this with their battery powered equipment (myself included) and my 18V cordless tools packs all have very short discharge times. I wonder if electric car and cycle owners will and do let their vehicles rest at a proper storage charge?

This is one of many reasons I think electric cars will remain a novelty until a new battery chemistry is developed. Disclaimer: I am no expert on the batteries used in full sized vehicles but I have read that they are still lithium based.
 

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They're great....until the battery dies. It's almost cheaper to buy another tool.

My problem with battery operated tools is infrequent use. That's the hardest thing on a battery.

Sent from my 2 Tin Cans With A String using Tapatalk
Not on lithium ion's...they keep their charge....ya just buy an extra batt and keep one on a charger (takes an hour) for extended use....easy peasy.
 

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Not on lithium ion's...they keep their charge....ya just buy an extra batt and keep one on a charger (takes an hour) for extended use....easy peasy.
I have a Makita drill that's about 8 or so years old and the batteries have held up remarkably well with just occasional use and storage in a hot-in-summer/freezing-right-now garage. Holds a charge forever and has plenty of power.

OTOH, we've gone through many B&D and other garden tools with batteries that lose a lot of their power before the yard is done and generally crap completely out in less than a summer. No replacements to be found either.
 

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Battery powered tools are great. And the ones we have today really work well.

First battery powered tool I had was a drill, first driver I had was a screw driver. It ran about an hour on a 3 hour charge. Then I got a battery powered ratchet, it ran about 1/2 hour on a 3 hour charge and was bigger than a standard CP 3/8 air ratchet. But it eliminated the need to drag a dirty air hose inside of a nice clean car when doing dash work. For full time work, they weren't really that good, but it was the 80's. When I put the tools up in the late 90's it was still pretty much all air power for impacts. The trusty 110 volt 1/2 inch gun being the exception.

My dad started wrenching in the late 40's, and he talked about those 110 volt guns being the cats-ass back then. Cost the same back then as they did in the 80's, so only the high end techs could afford them. Bout a $100. He told stories of how the techs who had them guarded them like they were made of gold. Some even carried them home at night.
 

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Id say they def have their place in the shop nowadays. I use my 24 volt Kobalt impact drill on the Harley whenever possible. It works great for removing average bolts but I still need my real impact gun on the compressor to remove high torqued bolts like the comp sprocket. But I mostly use my 2' torque wrench and breaker bar for that.

But a shop will not sound like a real shop with out at least one air ratchet running in the background.
 

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Not on lithium ion's...they keep their charge....ya just buy an extra batt and keep one on a charger (takes an hour) for extended use....easy peasy.
Maybe Li-Ion packs are different, I read somewhere that they were the same except for packaging. The Li-Ion packs I have for my 18V Porter Cable stuff are the smallest capacity available and they don't last long unless I am drilling small diameter holes.

The NiCD packs that came with my original set are as dead as fried chicken and not even recognized by the charger.

If anyone is considering buying a set, don't buy the 20V stuff thinking the packs have more power. Its the same pack inside the new plastic. 18V packs read ~20v at full charge, just like the 20V packs do. Its a scam. Its a sore spot for me as a previous Porter Cable buyer. My next purchase of this type will be honestly markes as 18V if not 24V(I suspect that they are actually different). I read somewhere that everybody's European marketed stuff is still marked 18V because they couldn't legally call them 20V. Only in America are you allowed to mis-lead your customers, I guess. Please pardon the rant,,,
 

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Last year I decided to replace my old Milwaukee tools that used NiCad batteries. I have a bunch of M18 tools now. They work great. The ones I was concerned with have exceeded all expectation. Now I have a Chainsaw, impacts, circular saw, screw gun, leaf blower, weed wacker, etc. All work great. I haven't duplicated my air tools much yet so I still use a mix. If I have a good air tool I don't go get a battery tool just because. If it died I wouldn't hesitate to look for a replacement in the M18 line.
 

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Had some tools that were perfectly good , but the NiCad batteries all went south and ya couldn't get new ones since most store brands change every 5yrs or so. Planned obsolescence I suppose.
That's why I'm buying all Milwaukee stuff. Great tools and I have a bunch of batteries. I keep 2-M12 and 2-M18 on the chargers , and I probably have half a dozen of each that are unopened.
 

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I use an 18 volt Li-Ion DeWalt hammer drill at work. The thing has enough torque to break your damn wrist if you don't pay attention.

I'm most inpressed by the fact that I've dropped it in water, 3-6" deep, 5 or 6 times and it still works.

It has one great battery and one weak one. One's pretty new and one's old, but I've lost track of which is which.

joe
 

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I have the Milwaukee cordless impact (M12) and that little thing will remove lugnuts right off my truck and they torque to 100 ft. lbs. I don't even own an air impact any longer.

I do still have the air chisel because I have attachments for that which make front suspension work much easier. Plus, it's not something I use all the time like the impact.
 

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Every body in my shop is electric now except the 2 old guys lol we all have snap-on, when ever old man up front takes out his air drill, we all start laughing because I play this as bit from Down Periscope bahahaha

 

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I have the Milwaukee cordless impact (M12) and that little thing will remove lugnuts right off my truck and they torque to 100 ft. lbs. I don't even own an air impact any longer.

I do still have the air chisel because I have attachments for that which make front suspension work much easier. Plus, it's not something I use all the time like the impact.


When ever i need to remove the inner race from a steering head bearing, I cut the cage knock all the bearings out and the use a bent angle chisel with the air hammer. Takes that race off in about 2 seconds if it doesn't hit the ceiling in the shop lol...
 
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