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Discussion Starter #21
that is about what i was thinking honestly,,, its more than you need,, but if you cant have that,,, why bother ?? lol. it will have a nice sizzle rather than lope sound...
Just enough lope to make it sound cool. Probably gonna run short zoomie headers or if that don't work side pipes or stacks...may have to do internal baffles on the zoomies
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
So the girder front end build officially started today. We bent the rear tubes got the bends lined up perfectly and trimmed them to length. We used a pipe bender for sched 40 pipe and the 3/4 die fit perfectly on the 1 1/8 chromoly tube. They bent very well no cave in or collapsing. Set bender to its tightest bend setting. The 4130 tube has a .120 wall thickness. At the peak of the bend from outside to outside of front and rear tube it measures 5 1/4" want to keep that long thin look on the forks. Coping the bottom joints is a slow tedious process but we took our time to make them fit nicely. Tomorrow we will weld these.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
My oldest son Shane is 22 he has some serious welding skills. I taught him how to arc weld and he got really good really fast. I can TIG weld but I don't do much of it in my trade so im not extremely proficient at it. Shane got a few lessons and within a year I wouldn't dare challenge him to a TIG welding contest.....he'd smoke me in speed and quality. I let him weld the forks together. Last year a spent 7k on millers most advanced portable TIG and multiprocess portable welder and handed it to him. Best investment I ever made
 

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That's a good talent to have in your toolbag.

Are you sure you don't want to take it in this direction?
I mean if you like the whole "bike rearends the car" look. Haha!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Lol, ill give him an A for ingenuity on that one. I really HATE the tadpole reverse trike configuration. I'll take an old school classic trike any day.
 

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I would like to disable the traction control and try drifting a tadpole but as far as building one I'm with you.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Got a doner gen 1 chevy block from the machine shop down the road. Looks like it had a catastrophic piston failure that blew the sidewall out of the cylinder..yikes..The motor we have for the build is in the machine shop. So now we have a dummy block and can start bending tubes to make the lower engine/trans frame, the backbone of the whole build. Found these aftermarket polished stainless engine mounts, they have urethane bushings to controll the vibrations to the frame and yet limit how much the engine can move around in the frame. They'll do a much better job than the big bulky and ugly stock syle mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
got some cold snowy weather so we are in the shop not the feild the next few days. No work on deck so im back on the build. We got the lower engine frame under way. Im running the coolant to the rear through the frame. So the coolant from the motor comes out at the top then goes down through the main single down tube from the neck then turn left go around the frame toward the rear. Coming back forward on the right tube and return to the water pump. In order to make that work a wall needed to be welded in the front tube to separate the pipe into two sealed sides. Then get beveled and welded structuraly back together. Again my son took care of the welding.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
we bored holes through tube where the water needed to flow before welding on the down tube and drilled for hose nipples that will be welded on to accept the engine coolant hoses. Shot a laser line down the center of the frame, set the forward angle of the down tube and hung a plumb bob from the top of the down tube to make sure its all dead center and straight with the frame centerline. So its starting to slowly look like a frame. For the front we are designing a cow catcher style grill. We are framing out a bit more tomorrow. Then I have get some stuff cut on a plasma table at a fellow welder down roads shop. Its gonna look cool when done.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Water hose necks installed. Welded a raised bump around the ends of the pipes so the hoses and clamps can't slide off under pressure, same as if they were an actual hose nipples. The second pic you can see the welded seam just to the left of the down tube is where we installed the dam to seperate hot from cold return coolant.
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267803
267804
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Using a pipe through the cam holes in the block and a plumb bob, we set the motor block position for the last time over the centerline. Checked the set back for pulley clearance in the front all looked good. Then we made the motor mounts and welded them in. When the oil pan is in it will be 1" up inside the frame rails. We are setting the chassis ground clearance at 8" so if the trike ever bottoms out a steep driveway or curb the oil pan will be protected. The crankshaft centerline height is 16" from the ground. The rear axle centerline height is 13". So with preload sag and allowing room for the axle movement it is as low as we could go. General center of gravity should work out about 20" this thing should corner hard with no issues at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
So for the most part the lower engine cradle is finished. We added some tube bracing and finished the outer down tubes as well. This will be a very solid frame. Set the rear transmission support in the rear of the frame as well. We'll have to wait till we have the trans here to make a standoff structure to set it at its proper height for the new mount. So the motor and trans will be sitting on all urethane mounts. Next we are going to start framing out the firewall and dash section. We also have to finish the cow catcher chin spoiler. Im happy to see so much progress being made.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The new fork neck came in yesterday so we set the frame on the table. We put 8" standoff under each corner of the frame so it sits at its actual ride height. We coped the neck into the frame. After laying it out we have it set to 42° but we still have get it more accurately figured out. The girder isn't like figuring out for a standard front end. Lots to contend with. The angle of the pivot arms, the offset of the lower pivots, as well as the fork length are still unknowns till they are built. You can't set up those without the neck in place so for now this is just a rough setting. We'll deal with final setting after the forks are built. I think it will wind up about 43°-44° when on the forks when finished. The height at the top of neck is about 35" right now. Should have a long but not too long stance to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Always browsing around for ideas and styles for the build. Ran across this hotrod. I'm liking this style C cab for the trike. Love the old brass lanterns on the sides, could make those functional marker lights as well. I really like the polished stainless sheet behind wheels and the stained glass rear window is pretty unique idea.. Very Gothic look about it. Wouldn't work with any other color than black though, but its pretty badass.
 

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Just running the coolant through the frame is an innovation. You might want to patent this idea. Yeah its cool everything you do is cool.

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