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Discussion Starter · #201 ·
Valid point and I'll explain. I don't mind questions one bit. I'm glad your enjoying the thread and apriciate the input.. Ill break this great question down in three parts

NECK STRESS
As far as the neck goes the forces acting on it are the same no mater what length the forks are. The weight applied on the neck doesn't change let's assume 600lbs area. The only thing that does change is the direction the force is applied. The neck piece is made from very heavy wall DOM high quality carbon steel. The tubes are all also DOM tubing. We have three main points of contact the 2" down tube and the two upper 1.5" tubes coming in from each side. 600÷3= 200lbs of force being exerted at each tube. Due to the fact that all three hit at off angles it makes the welded circumference even larger. Each one of these pipe welds if you cut the the nose off and tested each one I could very safely guess 1500+lbs or more EACH before the weld would be of any concern and thats conservative estimate so 1500lbs x 3= 4500lbs of very safe load to hold up about 600lbs. So yes even though it may appear sketchy it is A LOT stronger than you might belive and way stronger than needed.
THE FORKS
the reason we are going with the girder style forks is because we knew the rake angle would be high. Hydraulic forks become useless at this angle and just bend the forks and side load the shocks making failure imminent. Also they would be less effective at stopping hard jolts and shock loads from being transfered to the neck.The girder works very well for these bigger angles. And is lighter than a springer. They just rock back and forth absorbing whatever you throw at them. I'm going to implement a 3 way adjustable coilover shock for damping control. Should work great and reduce drastically any shock loads going to neck.
THE RAKE
To get proper trail set the forks will be slightly less angle than the neck. The long forks will allow for the tire to lean into turns and reduce side loading the forks significantly.
 

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Thanks for the explanation(s). I am enjoying the write-up, it's very well done and I like that as much and the physical progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
What's up all.. had some life stuff to take care of and the project got shelved for a bit. I've also been talking back and fourth with Paul Durfee about the girder design. Collected up some steel pin and sleeve material for the all important linkage parts. So I decided to beef up the original design. Originally we we looking at 5/8" pin and 1 1/8" sleeve material but seemed marginal to me. It would work on paper but maintenance would be more often. A larger pin would spread the load even more and would provide more internal surface area for grease to do its job and decrease wear.. Again due to the size and weight of the build we upsized to 7/8" pin material and those are 4130 chromoly. The sleeve material is DOM 7/8" ID and 1 3/8 OD. Heavy duty indeed but with better longevity overall. We are also increasing the pivot arm thickness to 3/4" and they will be a tad longer than an average girder front end would normally have for increased travel throw. We are shooting for a full 5" of travel so it can suck up these crappy NY roads. So it will be a total one off design made special for this build. The pins and sleeves got dropped of at a machinist to have the threads cut to 7/8-14 fine thread on the pins and the sleeves will be cleaned up and drilled for grease fittings two on each sleeve. Once all this I'd done I will make the linkage arms and get the trees ready for the next step
 

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It’s good to see you back posting.
That’s one heavy duty set of forks you have planned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
Trike build.......Not much to show as some parts are still out for machining and motor is at builders shop on slow go mode due to funds. But we sat down went over the build plan with our builder now that the heads have been checked for cracks and base machine work is done. So we have a mid seventies chevy 350 high nickel alloy block bored .030 over decked and line bored ready to go. We have the 1998 vortec truck heads base machine work completed. On the bottom end we decided to go with forged pistons, aftermarket I beam rods and forged steel crank. Full roller cam and rockers. At this point with the new crank it doesn't pay to go stock so we are going for a 383 stroker build. This also bumps the power to 450hp easy without even getting too crazy. Gotta couple bills left to catch up on and some nice work coming in to make it all a go. A full roller 383 stroker is gonna be a serious choice for a trike motor, that's getting close to big block numbers. We may have add some additional bracing in the mid and forward sections due to the torque. Rolled it out and took picks of the framework so we could think of where, how and how much it will need to be braced.
 

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Is that 383 going to be externally balanced with the flywheel and harmonic balancer, or is it going to be internally balanced? Also, it's been too long ago and I forgot, is it an automatic?
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 · (Edited)
Sorry been busy with work. Yes the cam I chose is a Lunati Bootlegger series hydraulic roller cam int/ex 284/309 duration. Has a .554 lift. Calls for a 3000rpm stall converter. Makes power from 3000-6500rpm This will give a pretty rough lopey idle and if running vacuum brake would need a vacuum can. I'm running Willwood manual brakes so I'm not needing that.
The heads are being modified also. We are removing the 3/8" press in studs, drilling and tapping for 7/16" thread in ARP studs. Mild pocket porting, stainless 1 piece valves, machining spring seats for beehive springs to accommodate the higher lift, hydraulic roller lifters and roller rockers. The valvetrain has to be pretty bulletproof as it may see occasional 7k rpm. According to the build plan we should land somewhere around 460hp
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
Was at the shop having some drinks with friends. I decided to design the dash layout on some 1/4" plywood. I have the switch panels and all the smaller gauges already here the tach and speedometer still have to get as well as some indicator lights. I'm happy with the layout. Gonna use 3/16" polished aluminum diamond plate for the dash. I think that'll contrast with the black face gauges well and look pretty tuff. The overhang from the c cab should keep it pretty glare free.
 

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Are you going to use the flat side of the diamond plate so the gauges will mount perfectly flat against the metal? Even tho the diamond plate side looks good, I can see the gauges being mounted with gaps against the raised relief of the plate surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
Wherever a diamond bump is under the edge of the gauge yes it will have to be ground off to sit flat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
So the dashboard is coming along pretty good.I used a piece of 3/16" aluminum diamond plate. The switch panels fit nice and flat. Definitely a little bit of a pain carefully grinding away every bump. Used a rat tail file to carve the ones in the gauge holes hand file fitting the gauges one at a time. It is gonna look nice when done. Got a few more things to drill in, a USB port, key switch and indicator lights for turn and brights. Decided on an under dash turn signal arm over the the tunnel. After all the drilling is done I'm gonna buff it to a mirror polish then I can assemble
 

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Discussion Starter · #216 ·
The green switch panel is powered by the accessory side of the key switch for the stereo system. Amp mounted behind seat the stereo head will get mounted in the roof of the cab in an overhead console style. I'll probably wind up putting show lights on this one, cab lights and other extra stuff. Gotta leave room for the hideaway mini bar back there....lol
 

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The green switch panel is powered by the accessory side of the key switch for the stereo system. Amp mounted behind seat the stereo head will get mounted in the roof of the cab in an overhead console style. I'll probably wind up putting show lights on this one, cab lights and other extra stuff. Gotta leave room for the hideaway mini bar back there....lol
Would you show a link where I could get a hideaway bar like that? It would look great on my jeep even though I don't drink....much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
Would you show a link where I could get a hideaway bar like that? It would look great on my jeep even though I don't drink....much.
Google fuel can mini bar or Jerry can bar. They run about $180.00 come in several different layouts for wine or whisky. I'm definitely picking one up too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
As I said there hasn't been much to post about as funds have been diverted and eaten heavily behind the scenes at the machine shop. However there is big progress to report there. The rotating assembly is together as well as the heads. Waiting on on hydraulic roller lifters to come in next week and then things will start moving toward the finish. The Canton road race oil pan is still a month or so out. Getting parts together sucks with all this covid crap going on. Even building a small block chevy is taking time due to this. Either way I'm constantly chasing pieces for the shop and have gotten far.
 

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