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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 98 Super Glide originally equipped with those damn buckhorn bars--I have tried the MOCO "mini-apes" which are an easy bolt-on install, but only look so-so IMHO. My biggest reservation in installing something taller is the need for extending the switch wiring, it might be over my head---I have been told there is extra wiring tucked under the tank which can be cut loose and extended, a "service loop"----can anybody shed a little light on thsi?
 

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There is extra wiring down low where the wiring harness goes to the fuse box. Their is more than enough. Use one hand to pull on the harness where it exits under the tank and use the other hand to push the extra up into the backbone. take it slow. From what I remember there is at least 6-8 inchs down in the pit where the fuse panel and battery are.

NOTE: At the top of the backbone, the harness exits the left side of the frame. There is a rubber plug on the left side that is held on by a nylon zip tie. Cut the zip tie, remove the plug then pull.

This is a really easy job but time consuming. GET A SERVICE MANUAL if you don't already have one or you may find yourself in a bad situation.

Don't cut the wires and extend, do it the right way to avoid dicking up the harness and you'll have a troublefree electrical system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
rpbrock said:
There is extra wiring down low where the wiring harness goes to the fuse box. Their is more than enough. Use one hand to pull on the harness where it exits under the tank and use the other hand to push the extra up into the backbone. take it slow. From what I remember there is at least 6-8 inchs down in the pit where the fuse panel and battery are.

NOTE: At the top of the backbone, the harness exits the left side of the frame. There is a rubber plug on the left side that is held on by a nylon zip tie. Cut the zip tie, remove the plug then pull.

This is a really easy job but time consuming. GET A SERVICE MANUAL if you don't already have one or you may find yourself in a bad situation.

Don't cut the wires and extend, do it the right way to avoid dicking up the harness and you'll have a troublefree electrical system.
thanks, rpbrock, do I need to pull the tank to do this, it would be great if that wasn't necessary--------
 

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remove the front bolt and nut on the tank and lift it up a few inces. Stick a piece of wood or something between it and the back bone and you'll be in good shape.

Before you do, get a flashlight and feel down in the pit to make sure the Super Glide does have this extra loop of harness. You will most likely have to go ahead and take all the bolts out (I think there are 3, two on top and one in the middle of the caddy between the fuses) that attach the electrical caddy to the frame. Trust me.... much easier than trying to fight all the wires and ECM coming out of the caddy/fuse box. Pull it out and let it hang. Once that's done you should be able to see and feel the extra wireing harness in a loop held to the frame with a zip tie.

The harness going through the backbone is in there pretty tight. Push and pull slowly and take your time. Like I said, I know the Wide Glides have the extra wire... just not sure about the other Dynas? My guess is most likely. The MoCo mini apes are 10 inchers so if you have the extra service loop you can probably go up to 16-18 inches without any problems.
 

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One other thing... I'm almost certain you'll have the extra wiring loop because all of the connectors from the front of the bike (lights, switches, etc) plug in to the harness about 4-6 inches inside the front opening of the backbone behind the neck of the frame. Let me know when you find out... I'm curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
rpbrock said:
One other thing... I'm almost certain you'll have the extra wiring loop because all of the connectors from the front of the bike (lights, switches, etc) plug in to the harness about 4-6 inches inside the front opening of the backbone behind the neck of the frame. Let me know when you find out... I'm curious.
thanks again, I'm kind of just in the planning stages for next bike mods at this point, a little cool to be working in an unheated garage here in Minnesota right now, but will post with an update later------------------
 

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rpbrock is right about the wiring,there is room to work there. You probably have to change the cables as welll...I am just making sure you know so you don't figure it out midway. By any slim chnace the wiring doesn't work, drag specialties make new wiring harness. They come very long and alls you have to do is crimp the ends on. I have used them for apes up to 18 inches and they worked out great. They are a little pricey though, 125.00 or so......hope this helps....
 

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blazinbob said:
thanks again, I'm kind of just in the planning stages for next bike mods at this point, a little cool to be working in an unheated garage here in Minnesota right now, but will post with an update later------------------
Why the hell you working on it in the garage? Don't you have a living room? Much warmer place to work and that's also where the TV is......
:harhar:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
TXCHOP said:
rpbrock is right about the wiring,there is room to work there. You probably have to change the cables as welll...I am just making sure you know so you don't figure it out midway. By any slim chnace the wiring doesn't work, drag specialties make new wiring harness. They come very long and alls you have to do is crimp the ends on. I have used them for apes up to 18 inches and they worked out great. They are a little pricey though, 125.00 or so......hope this helps....
many thanks, Txchop---will keep it in mind----
 

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i had 2 fxd's and they both had the extra wiring in the frame. The toughest part is pulling it out from under the fender (in front of the rear wheel) Once it's out of there, you can pull it forward fairly easily. Good luck.
 
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