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Hey all,

I just finished tearing down the TC88 on my 2000 dresser because of a blown rear head gasket. While in the process of the tear down, I've been thinking of doing a few minor upgrades to the engine while I have it apart. I was wondering If I could harness the experience of the forum memebers to guide me a little. I have a few questions for anyone who can help.

1) My bike has about 60,000 miles on it. Two years ago and approximately 14000 miles, I had the timing chain guides and cams changed out on the motor. The dealer recommended the SE 203 cams for performance. Now that I have the engine apart, I have been thinkiing about buying a 95cu upgrade kit to replace the top end. Is thare to many miles on this crank or the enginer itself to do an upgrade of this sort?

2) how will my gas mileage be once the upgrade is done. I am planning on throwing the stock heads back on until I have more money to do a cnc machine job I ride alot and gas is getting expensive.

3) Is it worth it? I saw a few kits on ebay. I can't afford the Harley upgrade kit for 1500 bucks; however, I did see several other kits on there for short money. Are there a specific brand recomended or to stay away from on line?

4) Some of the kits have cast (Screaming Eagle, etc.) Pistons, Should I go with forged pistons?

5) will I notice a significant difference in performance? im not a speed demond, but it would be nice for the dressr to get out of its own way :woohoo:

Thanks!!

Sinn
 

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FNG :)
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Rule #1. Dont buy any performance parts from the dealer.

Don't have the dealer do the machine work. They aren't doing it them selves, why pay their mark up. Go direct.

Call Axtell. Send them your cylinders and heads and ask them for their recommendation and then follow it.

Have your local indi shop do the work.

Do a search in several of the forums here. Read everything. Lots of information has already been written.
 

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Go with a 98" motor which will require a 3.934" bore. Some of the vendors on this site do that service for small dough. The pistons will run 400-500 or so. Can't get cast 3.934" slugs. By going 98" and running a .030 squish, you'll have the squeeze those cams want. Do you run a carb or FI?
 

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Go with a 98" motor which will require a 3.934" bore. Some of the vendors on this site do that service for small dough. The pistons will run 400-500 or so. Can't get cast 3.934" slugs. By going 98" and running a .030 squish, you'll have the squeeze those cams want. Do you run a carb or FI?
Whoa, slow down charlie, I think he is on a tight budget. I would just have the 88" Jugs bored out to 95" with matching pistons. Maybe while your at it, the same person that does the cylinder boring could probably port your heads as well. There are a few of good machinist/head porters that are sponsors on this site that would help out alot. If your on a tight budget, MHO try BigBoyz.
You could get that 95" kit with added bennies of having your heads ported for a price that is considerably less than 1500
 

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You say he's on a tight budget, but you still advocate head porting which will put him in the hole as much or more than the 98 pistons will, go figure.
Not saying porting isn't important, it certainly is, but that can be addressed later with more bucks without a complete teardown.
 

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tight budget.
bore your clys 95 ci 150.00-200.00
cast pistons 139.00-179.00
those 203's will surprise you with the added compression of the 95 ci.
hell they will surprise most in a stock 88 ci.I just tuned one that went 84/96
 

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"tight budget.
bore your clys 95 ci 150.00-200.00
cast pistons 139.00-179.00
those 203's will surprise you with the added compression of the 95 ci.
hell they will surprise most in a stock 88 ci.I just tuned one that went 84/96"
@gree:
 

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95 CU Upgrade..

I take it you want to do your own work...

#1. Get a good manual...and good torque wrenches

I went with 95" jugs/Forged pistons, SE Pro TC Heads, a full Gasket set, Andrews 26 cams, Hooker Step tuned exhaust, Twin velocity air cleaner, Dobek Tuner, Crane adjustable pushrods, Gatorman lifters and a whole bunch of other stuff....all from E bay. No bad products, no bad service/delivery and about 1/3 the list cost and no labor charges.

My mileage dropped to 43, but she pulls like a freight train with great low end and mid range torque. 2up riding is much easier and passing at 70 and above very rarely requires a downshift.

It took me 2 weekends and 4 or 5 hours every week night but then I am a slow wrench and spent a lot of time fitting then double fitting and of course.....reading and re-reading the manual.

That's just what I did...as with all opinions..."Your Results May Vary"
 

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Hey all,

I just finished tearing down the TC88 on my 2000 dresser because of a blown rear head gasket. While in the process of the tear down, I've been thinking of doing a few minor upgrades to the engine while I have it apart. I was wondering If I could harness the experience of the forum memebers to guide me a little. I have a few questions for anyone who can help.

1) My bike has about 60,000 miles on it. Two years ago and approximately 14000 miles, I had the timing chain guides and cams changed out on the motor. The dealer recommended the SE 203 cams for performance. Now that I have the engine apart, I have been thinkiing about buying a 95cu upgrade kit to replace the top end. Is thare to many miles on this crank or the enginer itself to do an upgrade of this sort?

2) how will my gas mileage be once the upgrade is done. I am planning on throwing the stock heads back on until I have more money to do a cnc machine job I ride alot and gas is getting expensive.

3) Is it worth it? I saw a few kits on ebay. I can't afford the Harley upgrade kit for 1500 bucks; however, I did see several other kits on there for short money. Are there a specific brand recomended or to stay away from on line?

4) Some of the kits have cast (Screaming Eagle, etc.) Pistons, Should I go with forged pistons?

5) will I notice a significant difference in performance? im not a speed demond, but it would be nice for the dressr to get out of its own way :woohoo:

Thanks!!

Sinn

Axtell makes good stuff.

stones motorcycle is right in your backyard.
 

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You say he's on a tight budget, but you still advocate head porting which will put him in the hole as much or more than the 98 pistons will, go figure.
Not saying porting isn't important, it certainly is, but that can be addressed later with more bucks without a complete teardown.
head porting on a 95 will gain you much more than spending the extra dough on forged 98in pistons, sepecially for a mild street build. 3 ci doesn't amount to much.
 

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your best bet would to call scott over at h!llside and talk to him better then going to AXTELL and they are a lot closer to you, way BETTER service also. he is a stand up guy.
 

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Yes its worth it even though you have 60,000 miles. Gas mileage is all relative to how you twist that throttle. If you like you new found power you will twist quite a bit more.

You can get forged JE pistons on ebay for $245.00, cast pistons for even but its worth the extra $100 for the better stuff.

Any local engine/machine shop can bore your cylinders. just give them the pistons and your jugs. Locally where I am it costs 60 per cylinder. so 120 plus 245 and you can very reliable power.

I agree with econner don't do what the dealer says or buy your parts there. They are about making money not giving the most for your money.
 

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A lot of good advice, but you did mention crank worries. The early dressers like yours do seem to be the models which come in with crank pin failure (rod knocks), and you will be raising the compression & putting more strain on your bottom end. However, the majority of them seem to do fine, even @ higher mileage than yours. Just thought I'd mention it though, food for thought.
 

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A lot of good advice, but you did mention crank worries. The early dressers like yours do seem to be the models which come in with crank pin failure (rod knocks), and you will be raising the compression & putting more strain on your bottom end. However, the majority of them seem to do fine, even @ higher mileage than yours. Just thought I'd mention it though, food for thought.
Actually, 99-2002 had forged cranks with timken left side bearings. They are holding up far better than some of the new ones. Seems like the crank issues came up when they went to 96 ci in 07.
 

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Actually, 99-2002 had forged cranks with timken left side bearings. They are holding up far better than some of the new ones. Seems like the crank issues came up when they went to 96 ci in 07.
Ya crank problems started post 02 bikes when the tolerances were changed. It's why lots of post 02 bikes coulnt run gear drive cams. The crank run out was too bad.
 

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Tight budget? I went the BigBoyz way without regrets, bought a set of jugs and heads through Ebay for $110 and had it sent to Bean directly for the mild porting and bbore job to 95 CI. Things were matched around SE cast pistons with properly gapped rings to fit the bore, the complete combo was set for a 9.7 compression with a Cometic .03 MLS head gasket. With your lower end in good shape you could opt for any of the following cams: Andrews 26 or 37, SE 203 or S&S 510, they are all direct replacement cams not requiring any work to the valves or rockers. With adjustable pushrods you should expect the bill around $1000 if you already own some cams and if you do your own wrenching.

Armin.
 

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Please stay away from any of the EBay stuff. You would need to address a lot of things, bought on EBay, later, with known to be good stuff. Saving $200 on ebay will most likely relate to SPENDING lots more to fix.

Here is an example... SE cylinders have a KNOWN out of round condition. Stuff on ebay is, a lot of times, switched from what one thinks, to what one gets in the box.

Stay good suppliers, and keep those cams.

IMHO, Bigboyz or Axtell is THE way to go for you. Go with a 95 kit, and have your cylinders bored to match the pistons you buy.
 

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Bored my own '04 cylinders (cheating already!), bought SE 95" flat top pistons (which upped the CR a little) and bought a set of '06 HD (good stock flowing) heads, and installed a mild SE cam (found cheap locally). Used a Power Commander on that bike and it was amazing the improvement! -And it didn't cost a lot. Pipes were the SE slip ons (not bad performance and good sound). You'll need adjustable push rods to be really correct...and you should replace the cam chain tensioners while you're in there (a tool makes it easier).

A local automotive machine shop is usually equipt to bore the cylinders (get the pistons first and have the machine shop fit them for you). Use cheap rings (they actually seat quicker and are easier on the bores - rings are easy to replace any time with a 'head' set gasket set.

Yes, I would so it again! It was low budget and a fun project! I later went back in and did more but didn't lose a lot of time in the shop...

Riding is what it's all about not working on the damned thing!
 

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Please stay away from any of the EBay stuff. You would need to address a lot of things, bought on EBay, later, with known to be good stuff. Saving $200 on ebay will most likely relate to SPENDING lots more to fix.

Here is an example... SE cylinders have a KNOWN out of round condition. Stuff on ebay is, a lot of times, switched from what one thinks, to what one gets in the box.

Stay good suppliers, and keep those cams.

IMHO, Bigboyz or Axtell is THE way to go for you. Go with a 95 kit, and have your cylinders bored to match the pistons you buy.
Yes, that's very true...

That type of cylinder, that is cast around the iron bore liner needs to be placed between torque plates, torqued to specification then bored. Measuring it after releasing the torque plates will show an out of round condition....point is: you must trust the shop or company that bored the cylinders in the first place. Just unwrapping a set of cylinders and measuring the bore doesn't tell the full story. But anyhow - I agree with you. Just a bit of clarification...Know and trust who is doing the work!

And - that's why rings are placed as they are in the piston ring grooves and allowed to seat to the bore because rings aren't round either! Be very wary of a set of cylinders that are measuring round!!!They were not bored correctly....

AND - I agree as well - ebay is the pits! Go there to get screwed anymore and ebay doesn't care!!!!!!
 

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You say he's on a tight budget, but you still advocate head porting which will put him in the hole as much or more than the 98 pistons will, go figure.
Not saying porting isn't important, it certainly is, but that can be addressed later with more bucks without a complete teardown.
NO, its not, as you can see from the next quotes this is the best way espesially if he is going to use his own jugs and heads.

tight budget.
bore your clys 95 ci 150.00-200.00
cast pistons 139.00-179.00
those 203's will surprise you with the added compression of the 95 ci.
hell they will surprise most in a stock 88 ci.I just tuned one that went 84/96
head porting on a 95 will gain you much more than spending the extra dough on forged 98in pistons, sepecially for a mild street build. 3 ci doesn't amount to much.
Tight budget? I went the BigBoyz way without regrets, bought a set of jugs and heads through Ebay for $110 and had it sent to Bean directly for the mild porting and bbore job to 95 CI. Things were matched around SE cast pistons with properly gapped rings to fit the bore, the complete combo was set for a 9.7 compression with a Cometic .03 MLS head gasket. With your lower end in good shape you could opt for any of the following cams: Andrews 26 or 37, SE 203 or S&S 510, they are all direct replacement cams not requiring any work to the valves or rockers. With adjustable pushrods you should expect the bill around $1000 if you already own some cams and if you do your own wrenching.

Armin.

lets do a estimate if he were to do a BigBoyz package

Cylider Boring $130
Head Porting $300
MLS Gaskets $25

Other things needed
Pistons, cast $180
Top end gasket kit $50
Oil and Filter $40
Misc for small $hit that I may have forgot $50

Thats $775 for a top end rebuild bumped up to a 95",
Thats still alot cheaper than a SE Kit from HD and you got ported heads to boot.

Now, maybe you would want to replace the lifters to new stock ones and go with adjustable push rods, not absolutely nessasarybut its a good idea, that will get you about the 1K mark

Now, you can add BigBoyz to:
Mill, CC, compression releases and spings for around 300 more but then your seriously looking at checking your crank, not that it shouldent be done anyways,,something I learned the hard way :(
 
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