[berserker]

Got another cam choise thread. Been doing lots of reading but was hoping to get some more feedback.

Got 2001 FLHR. Do about 5k a year touring, 5k to work and few thousand bumming around. So nothing radical. would like to keep fair gas mileage.

Thinking 95", bore out existing cylinders. S&S gear drive and....

Is there a cam that will work ok with 88 & 95? I am hoping to both next month when I get my bonus. But don't know how much it will be. I want to open up and inspect cams tensioners, so would like to do the cams now.

Though I think there is a good chance will do it all next month.

My riding style is when touring is around 85, two up. Work ride is interstate 60-80. So I do alot of high?mid range riding. Looking for response in that range.

Here lots of peole talk about 37g.

Did read one post that with 37 will be shifting alot on hills. Whats the magic bullet.

Don't have tach, but have never hit limiter. Wind the first 3 gears out a little.

So far have SE AC, stock carb and V&H classics. Maybe someday go to 2-1, but won't be for awhile. When welded crack fails.

Got primmary off right now. considering gearing chagne, but money isn't there.

I also have to run ethanol alot, and getting worse. Plus do couple thousand miles a year out west with low octane.

Any help with ramblings would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[berserker]

I am insecure and need reassuring. Might do 3:37 someday. Can do that on a Saturday in the summer, when I got few bucks in my pocket.

Lots of talk about 37g,probably for good reason. Some talk of 26g. Guess could look at durations, but I am lazy.

But your right I've almost every thread I could find. This thread is probably one step above syn or dino.

 

[berserker]

was considering 98 too. Money is little tight. But don't want to do cheap either.

I have heli-coil in on eof my heads. If that fails will buy new heads. Was thinking that might be a push, to going 98 and stock heads..

But part of me thinks, if goign through this, do it right. 98". Then headwork later.

Big thing will be to inspect my jugs. Check for pealing.

 

[LittleBear]

I will through in my opinion and you get what you pay for.
The 37G cam can be made to perform very well under the following conditions.
1. You go to 95" or 98" motor
2. You have the heads ported and the CR raised to 9.8 to 1
3. You tune the exhaust to get rid of the dip in the TQ curve between 2k and 2.5k RPM that is common with the 37g on many dyno printouts.
4. Your bike gets tuned by an expert.
Of course the proper CR and tune is true with any cam.
For the way I ride, I chose the 26G
It added a lot of ridability on my stock head 88" motor.
When going to a 95" motor, with a good port job it is capable of almost 100 ftlbs of TQ and it makes it between 2k and 4k RPM which is where I ride when 2 up. The 26g does tend to start falling off after 4k RPM.
With either cam you have to have the heads ported to take advantage of its' full capabilities. I chose the 26g because its' TQ curve was flatter between 2k and 4k RPM even though the peak numbers were not as good as a 37g and it works well in my 88" and will suit me fine when I go to 95" with ported heads. But that is me, I just want something that will pull the hills and pass without down shifting. I have that 1 up now and with a 95" build I think I will have the same feal of power 2-up and loaded.
If you want an arm jerking rocket, go with HDWrench's 98" build.
I comes down to how you ride and how much power you want.
Good luck on what ever you chose.

 

[Mtclassic]

If you do both cam and BB at the same time you can save a little money because you can use your stock push rods if you want. Don't rule out 21's either. On a heavy bike they do really good and have great tq in the area that these beasts usually ride in ie 60 to 90.

 

[berserker]

Don't think I will be doing heads at this time. $$ is an issue. 26 and 21 sound interesting.

 

[bedemonster]

I've had both:

A 98" with the 37G and headwork (05 Heritage Classic)

A 95" with the 21G and stock 06 heads (06 Ultra)

I like the Ultra's set up better. Seems faster, better throttle response, and pulls like a mother from 2200 to 4300:yes:

Just my experience

 

[ViennaHog]

Don't think I will be doing heads at this time. $$ is an issue. 26 and 21 sound interesting.

My plan under those circumstances would be:

• Do everything in one shot (saves the expense for adjustable pushrods or additional top end gasket set)
• 26 G seems to be a good compromise for later upgrades
• Have the heads milled that gives you the optimum compression for the 26G (0.030 Cometic comes in handy as you don't have to mill the head that much)
• Everything little bear said about tuning and exhaust
• HDWRENCH can answer your specific question about cam/stock head choices on a 98"
• There is no magic bullet, you got to determine the direction

 

[Milehog]

I am insecure and need reassuring. Might do 3:37 someday. Can do that on a Saturday in the summer, when I got few bucks in my pocket.

Lots of talk about 37g,probably for good reason. Some talk of 26g. Guess could look at durations, but I am lazy.

But your right I've almost every thread I could find. This thread is probably one step above syn or dino.

I can identify with your angst. It's easy to tell someone else how to set up the build they want. When it comes to your own bike all this doubt and second guessing shows up from out of the blue!
OK my .02. You dont rev the bike hard so... Lets choose a cam that dosen't ask for revs or 3.37 gears. Swami sees an Andrews 26 in your future.
You need to control expenses, but not to the point of leaving anything on the table. Stay with chain drive & put the gear drive $$ into headwork. You have a few miles on the bike, could be it's ready for a valve job any way. SE 95 inch pistons, stock pushrods. You know the rest.
I just did a very similar build. Taking off from a stop the bike ('05 Ultra) no longer acts like it wants a lower first gear. At highway speed the exhaust makes less noise. The engine sounds like it's loafing, rather than pulling. When I roll on the throttle, rather than the bike starting to accelerate, I find the bike has already accelerated. The Baisley spring muted much of the engines ticking & clicking.
Sorry about being long winded, but you know how it is. It's easy to tell someone else how to set up their bike...

 

[Seahag]

I will side with the guys telling you the Andrews TW-26G. The 21 is too little for a 95" build and the 37 is too big for an 88" build.

 

[berserker]

Thanks for all the responses.
I am prettu sure will do bb and cams at same time. But sounds like if I don't 26g could still be used. I am probably going to go with adjustable pushroads,even if I do both at same time. Last time I had the heads off looked like there might have been a tiny leak. Would have been nice to have adjustable push rods.

I am starting to wonder more about head work. So I won't have to go into engine again. Do they do springs and guides when porting? Then would pretty much be a complete top end rebuild. Gaskets are about $75, so don't want open again.

Middle of next month should know what my bonues is. Rumor say its good. Now if my next months heating bill isn't to bad cause of the warm weather maybe have some money.

Now next question what cam tools do I need? Inner cam bearing remover? Anybody use georges garage? Seems cheaper the Jims. Been watching ebay too.

 

[berserker]

Just registered on HDWrench's site. Might be giving him a call, one of these days.

 

[Seahag]

HdWrench rents the tools you will need. No sense buying them for a one time job. But if you insist on owning a set, I've heard the quality of george's tools are great....especially for the price.

 

[berserker]

What do you need?
Cam Tensioner Unloader Tool
Cam/Crank Gear Locking Tool
Inner Cam Bearing Installer Tool
Inner Cam Bearing Puller Tool
Miss anything?

Looks like about $200. Which is alot of money at this time. If I had the money, would be inlined to buy. But right now I don't have the $.

 

[wkohn]

Thanks for all the responses.
I am prettu sure will do bb and cams at same time. But sounds like if I don't 26g could still be used. I am probably going to go with adjustable pushroads,even if I do both at same time. Last time I had the heads off looked like there might have been a tiny leak. Would have been nice to have adjustable push rods.

I am starting to wonder more about head work. So I won't have to go into engine again. Do they do springs and guides when porting? Then would pretty much be a complete top end rebuild. Gaskets are about $75, so don't want open again.

Middle of next month should know what my bonues is. Rumor say its good. Now if my next months heating bill isn't to bad cause of the warm weather maybe have some money.

Now next question what cam tools do I need? Inner cam bearing remover? Anybody use georges garage? Seems cheaper the Jims. Been watching ebay too.

Your really enjoying the yanking of their chains aren't you?

 

[berserker]

?? Not quite sure what you mean. Plan on starting build in couple weeks. Got priamry off right now.

With everybody taking about heads, I would like to figure out a way to do it. Head work is probably the biggest unknown right now. But if I rent the tools, instead of buy. Might be able to afford.

 

[crash1292]

oil pump alignment pins
unloader tool.....use a vicegrips
locking tool....uhmw plastic

 

[berserker]

Forgot about those. Hows it going crash?

 

[crash1292]

good...just ordered the 3.37 pri gearing parts

 

[berserker]

Got my primary off right now. Consider it. Probably wait till I got a few more miles, good excuse to replace chain. Though I never hear about anyone breaking a primary chain.