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Discussion Starter #1
Just got the last package from Fed-Ex delivered, Andrews 37G cams. I'm dropping the bike off tonight and should have it back by Friday. I'm going from the stock 88 to the 95.

Here's what my build will consist of:

Big Boyz Ported Stock Heads
Big Bore Cylinders (didn't want to risk anyone around here boring my cylinders)
SE High Compression Cast Pistons
.030 Cometic Head Gaskets (Final Compression will be 9.9:1)
Andrews 37G Cams
Woods 2 Degree Advance Key
Baisley Spring
SE Clutch Spring
H-D Reduced Effort Clutch Ramps
SE Quick Install Pushrods

Already installed:

V&H Pro-Pipe HS
SERT

I'll try to have them run a dyno on the bike now so I will be able to compare it to a final dyno after the build/break in.

I'm as excited about this as a four year old on Christmas morning. Hopefully it'll turn out as good as some of the other similar builds I see some of you guys have.

Updates to follow...
 

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Ironrdr said:
Just got the last package from Fed-Ex delivered, Andrews 37G cams. I'm dropping the bike off tonight and should have it back by Friday. I'm going from the stock 88 to the 95.

Here's what my build will consist of:

Big Boyz Ported Stock Heads
Big Bore Cylinders (didn't want to risk anyone around here boring my cylinders)
SE High Compression Cast Pistons
.030 Cometic Head Gaskets (Final Compression will be 9.9:1)
Andrews 37G Cams
Woods 2 Degree Advance Key
Baisley Spring
SE Clutch Spring
H-D Reduced Effort Clutch Ramps
SE Quick Install Pushrods

Already installed:

V&H Pro-Pipe HS
SERT

I'll try to have them run a dyno on the bike now so I will be able to compare it to a final dyno after the build/break in.

I'm as excited about this as a four year old on Christmas morning. Hopefully it'll turn out as good as some of the other similar builds I see some of you guys have.

Updates to follow...
Good Luck....:thumbsup:
Have the Dyno Operator print you two graphs...one with HP, tq and rpm, ...and the other with AFR, hp, tq, and rpm.
 

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Ironrdr said:
SE High Compression Cast Pistons
.030 Cometic Head Gaskets (Final Compression will be 9.9:1)
Updates to follow...
How do you come to that compression ratio? The hi-comp cast SE's with stock heads are rated 10.25:1, with the stock .052 HD head gasket. Just curious how yer gonna get the comp ratio down to 9.9:1....
Should be almost 10.5:1 with the .030 cometic or did I miss a class somewhere?
I really want to know cuz I really want to do the same build but have been having CR issues cuz I really don't wanna mill my heads for the correct CR with flat tops But the Hi Comps are too high...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Doc,

Will do. I talked to the mechanic/tuner today and he said he's gonna pull up all my dynos, when I first got the bike, intake leak, Sert/Pro-Pipe install, and now the 95" dyno. It'll be interesting to see the gains on each mod. But I will have him print up an AFR and post up as soon as I get some miles on it. Thanks for the good wishes.

adlerx,

I had Bean at Big Boyz "cc" the heads. The Mo-Co says that the heads are 85cc. The Compression ratios that they give are calculated using 85cc heads. My heads, which by the way were completely stock, measured at 88.9cc. Using that measurement for the head volume, Bean calculated a final compression ratio of 9.9:1 or damn close to that with all of the parts I am using.
I guess much like the Mo-Co's dyno graphs, their head volumes must be taken with a grain of salt.

more to come...

darrell
 

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Thanks, guess I should have had bean cc mine while he had em...DUH!!! Guess I should have em cc'd before I start milling. If they're close to yours, I'll just go ahead and use the hi comp's(which is what bean told me to do anyhow...DUH!)
Thanks, adx
 

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Discussion Starter #6
adlerx,

Since I had an idea of what way I wanted to go with my build, and Bean knew what compression ratio would be best, we wanted to make sure that the parts we used would get us to that compression. Bean told me that he has seen heads that were to factory spec, and heads that were just like mine. He also said that he has seen sets come in where one head may be to spec and the other measue like mine. His main point was that we should measure and be sure before we start milling or just going with a high compression piston. This way we know what we are dealing with, and since I know the cc's, there was no need for me to spend the extra$ for milling heads to get to a compression ratio that could be achived with just pistons.

I've gotta really give credit to Bean at Big Boyz. He really took the time and explained his process, and steered me to the best combination of parts with the heads I had. He installed the updated valve seals in my heads and was just and e-mail away for any questions I may have had. I just can't wait to see what kind of numbers his heads are going to make for my build.

darrell
 

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adlerx said:
Thanks, guess I should have had bean cc mine while he had em...DUH!!! Guess I should have em cc'd before I start milling. If they're close to yours, I'll just go ahead and use the hi comp's(which is what bean told me to do anyhow...DUH!)
Thanks, adx
Most stock heads are in the 85-87 cc range. But I have seen them anywhere from 84-89 cc. If you are just doing a street build and not worried about blueprinting the heads, I would assume they are around 87cc and call it good. Then the little variation in either directions isn't a problem. If you must have an exact compression ratio then you need to cc the heads. IMO most street builds do not need exact CR and all can use the 10.25:1 pistons because the combustion chambers typically run larger than spec which drops your CR.
 

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Ironrdr said:
I just can't wait to see what kind of numbers his heads are going to make for my build.

darrell
Keep in mind that good tuning is a large portion of what makes good numbers. The heads are only one component in a build. All the components need to work together and the tuner is the one that makes that happen.

Good luck and be sure to let us know !!
 

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springer- said:
Most stock heads are in the 85-87 cc range. But I have seen them anywhere from 84-89 cc. If you are just doing a street build and not worried about blueprinting the heads, I would assume they are around 87cc and call it good. Then the little variation in either directions isn't a problem. If you must have an exact compression ratio then you need to cc the heads. IMO most street builds do not need exact CR and all can use the 10.25:1 pistons because the combustion chambers typically run larger than spec which drops your CR.
Thanks Bean!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I live in South Jersey. I'm getting the work done by Millville H-D. Bill is the mechanic that is working on my build, and just by the seat of the pants dyno when he did my SERT install, he knows how to tune (but like I said, that's just my opinion, the dyno charts will prove how good any tuner really is). He's a grad of MMI, so I really hope he can tune it in right. I'll be posting my charts just as soon as I get them.


Just checked out where Colonia is. You're about 2, 2 1/2 hours away (my Grandmother lives in Linden). I go right by your neck of the woods pretty often. It's a little bit of a haul, but well worth it for a good tuner.

darrell
 

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Bill is the mechanic that is working on my build, and just by the seat of the pants dyno when he did my SERT install, he knows how to tune (but like I said, that's just my opinion, the dyno charts will prove how good any tuner really is). He's a grad of MMI,
Ask Bill if he graduated from MMI Orlando...if so who was his instructor in the dyno room??
 

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springer- said:
Most stock heads are in the 85-87 cc range. But I have seen them anywhere from 84-89 cc. If you are just doing a street build and not worried about blueprinting the heads, I would assume they are around 87cc and call it good. Then the little variation in either directions isn't a problem. If you must have an exact compression ratio then you need to cc the heads. IMO most street builds do not need exact CR and all can use the 10.25:1 pistons because the combustion chambers typically run larger than spec which drops your CR.
Hi Springer.........I understand what you say with this statement.............but I think the novices need to understand that short duration cams build cylinder pressures much higher than long duration cams and can cause ping around 2000rpm with comp ratios of 10:1 and above.

All the best, Ozzie
 

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Ozzie In Arabia said:
Hi Springer.........I understand what you say with this statement.............but I think the novices need to understand that short duration cams build cylinder pressures much higher than long duration cams and can cause ping around 2000rpm with comp ratios of 10:1 and above.

All the best, Ozzie
Good point, my terminology wasn't exactly correct. When I said "all can use them", I meant anyone that wants to run up in that compression ratio range. Assuming you want to run in the 10:1 range, you need to pick a cam that works in that CR range.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
hdmd88 said:
Ask Bill if he graduated from MMI Orlando...if so who was his instructor in the dyno room??
Doc,

Sorry, I got second-hand info for this mechanic. Another guy in the shop told me he was a MMI grad, but after talking with Bill this morning he says that he is in fact not a grad of MMI. Sorry for the confusion.
He (Bill) did tell me that he has taken a few week long courses for what I don't know, but just talking with him he seems to know more than a glorified oil changer, alot more. He said he lived down in your area for a time and mentioned someone by the name of "Rooster"??:blink:

Anyway, being a grad of MMI or not, he's the one that is handling my build. Time will tell on his knowledge of the tuning aspect. I'll let you all know how it goes.

My bike is going on the lift as I type this, so it shouldn't be too long.

darrell
 

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springer- said:
Just to be certain there is no mistake, Bean is a friend of mine. I am not Bean.
I knew that, drunk again!:beer:
Be sure to give Bean my apologies!!:roflback: :roflback:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, just picked the bike up from the dealer. :wootdnc:
I know the break in rules, and I try to abide by them, but great googlie mooglies it's hard not to really turn on the juice now that I have it.

The power really shines once I hit 3000 RPM's, but I'm trying my best not to rev too much past there. I'm running a preset map that the mechanic put in just to get me by for the first 1000mi, but I think there's alot left below 3000 RPM's. I just have to wait to be able to get to it.

That baisley spring really pumps up the oil pressure, more than I expected. Quieted things down alot. The whir of the gear driven cams is only really noticable when below 1500 RPM's.

For the few miles I've put on so far I can tell I'm going to have alot of fun with this build.

Dyno charts to come in about a week.

darrell:woohoo:
 
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