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Am I the only one that thinks the term "Slip-On" is complete bull

1410 Views 16 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  zogorion
I think I might have herniated something last night trying to slip-off the mufflers I have on my 2000 Road Glide. I don't know how long they have been on there, I just bought the bike, and as discolored as the right side muffler is I'd say it's been a while. The left one (read unused) muffler came off without too much effort. The right side muffler, which takes all the abuse, was a different story. Now I to be fair, I guess these mufflers slip-on without a problem, but they sure as hell don't slip-off too easy. Has anyone else had problems with their slip-on's/hacksaw-off's? Do you guys put anti-seize or something on new slip-on's to make future removal easier? Or am I just Speh-shul and can't figure out the secret of HD's asinine factory dresser exhaust?
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They can definately be hard to remove. You'll get better at it til you throw all that stock crap away and get a real 2into1. They are sometimes just as diffcult to get to "slip-on"....
Good Luck!
RB Racing requires a coating of Permatex 598B ULTRA BLACK in their slip joints because they don't use any clamps at all. I guess this stuff seals and allows for easier removal later. Maybe a thin coat of this stuff on the head pipe just to the point where the muffler covers it would help.
I aways use anti seize on my mufflers. It is a huge help for sure.
I had to use a rubber strap wrench to get mine off. It was not easy, Wish I would have used antiseeze for installation now. I did not think about it.:wacko:
...I just spray some WD-40 and let it set in a bit... then they come right off.
Your going to have a helluva time getting a slipon off in some cases solely by twisting it. When you loosen the muffler clamp and slide it back you'll see that the neck of the muffler has splits on it. What you want to do is spread these splits slightly so the muffler will come off much easier. And you can do it in the following fashion.

After loosening the muffler clamp and removing support bolts at the rear of the muffler, stand on the right side of the bike facing the muffler. Take your right hand and grasp the front half of the neck and use the other half of your hand supporting the front pipe. Take your left hand and grasp the rear of the muffler. While holding your right hand steady and keeping the front of the pipe in a neutral position as much as possible, shove the muffler toward the wheel with your left hand, then pull the muffler back toward your chest. Pivot back and forth a few times so the slots on the muffler neck will spread open relieving the tension. Now you should be able to twist and pull or pull while wiggling the muffler away from you and towards you to get it off.

I've done many this way and it has worked many times.
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czar said:
...I just spray some WD-40 and let it set in a bit... then they come right off.
Works like a charm:thumbsup:
czar said:
...I just spray some WD-40 and let it set in a bit... then they come right off.
I alaso subscribe to the WD40 method, but have heard in really stubborn cases you can remove the clamp and then run the engine for 4 or 5 minutes. Let cool and come right off. never tried it though.
I have changed mine on my heritage a few times. They always slip right off--with some help of course. I loosen everything, twist it so a tab is facing away from the bike and with "thunder" aka my 20lb sledge hammer with the three foot handle, I do my impression of Tiger Woods.:yes:

One caution though, make sure your truck is not parked closer than 20 yards or you will leave a mark.:mad:

Regards, SSC
I've always used anti-seize around the inside of the muffler where it makes contact with the headpipe. I've never had problems getting them off with anything more than an up and down wiggle and firm pull to the rear.
A little something to laugh at.

Okay, I took the stock ones off my 2001 Sporty and they were a b*tch. I banged on them, twisted them, wrenched them, you name it. Just as I was breaking out the cutting torch. I found the bracket that was holding them on. Obviously, my superior mechanic skilz have shown through.:laugh:
I hear ya Cleetus; same story - different machine here.
Timbo has got it right. Here's the variation on his approach I've always used:

Spray the joint with WD40 or liquid wrench or something similiar. Take a small scissors jack, put a small piece of wood on the top. Raise the scissors jack under the header pipe right in front of the muffler connection so you are supporting the header pipe with the piece of wood on top of the jack. Just needs to be high enough to keep the header pipe from moving down. Now take the muffler from the end and gently push down on it. A slight side to side also helps. Pushing down will start spreading the flange at the engine end of the muffler. Be patient. I've taken off more than a bunch this way and it always works.
...and if needed - a small rubber coated dead-blow hammer to the mounting tab
I think slip on is a term used so people understand it isnt a complete exhaust system when they are shopping for exhaust stuff? I doubt it has little or nothing to due with the removal or installation. As for taking them off I too would have started the WD-40 a few days before you planned to take them off. Let it soak in a bit and possibly would have warmed the bike up a bit just before you took them off. Be sure to wear some gloves after=devil= .
Well I got the system all apart and found the crack in the Y-pipe that the previous owner left for me. these are the factory head-pipes, so I'm not all distraught, just an excuse to buy a set of true duals. But in the meantime, since the stock headers are junk, I decided to Frankenstein them into true duals with some 1 5/8" freeze plugs, I also wrapped them with that high temp. wrapping. Now I know that most of the benefit of true duals is the sound and the look, not the performance, but to be honest, I notice little difference in the sound, I really like the look, but I was expecting better audible results. One thing I like about the wrap though, is that it quiets some of those crazy noises that seem to eminate from our v-twins, I mean, at least until you walk to the back of the bike. Anyhow, I made sure to put anti-seize on all the joints, so hopefully it won't be so hard to upgrade in the future.
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