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Discussion Starter #1
Just back from my local dyno with my 2003 anniversary Road King Classic, after a good hour of running and tweaking they got the figures to 97HP & 98TQ - i was pleased but a wee bit frustrated at not quite reaching the ton.

I have a question i'm hoping you guys can help me with some advice... i think my cam choice isn't working so am looking for suggestions?

Here's the current set up (an eBay special:));

- Revolution Performance Stage 3 CNC Ported heads (2"inlet 1.63"ex tulip valves with 1.8" inlet ports, decked to 84cc's
- SE Forged domed 10.5:1 pistons on 1546cc bore (95ci)
- Horsepower Inc 51mm throttle body with 1.8" inlet manifold + K&N
- Fulsac True Dual headers with V&H 4" mufflers
-Andrews TW26G cams

Take a look at the dyno sheet and you can see my frustration, i was hoping for a flatter torque curve - what do you guys suggest to correct this?

Thanks for your help & advice.
 

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confused here???
you said you just got back from the dyno . but the run was done in march?
dosent look bad for that cam. it is working its heart out.
in just an hour of dyno time ,it is impossible to address all areas of your tune. i suspect it was just a tweaking of wot to get you a good dyno sheet. and IMO it looks good for the parts.
if I were to arm chair... IMO a little timing MIGHT help it some.
dont get too caught up in the tq curve on the sheet, your looking at a 2200-6200 rpm pull in high gear (5th). how many times do you shift up to 5 th gear and wack the throttle from 2200-6200?
if you were to look at some 2nd 3rd 4th gear wot runs you would have that flat tq line your looking for.:whistle:
 

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Not sure those big intake ports and valves are the best match for a 26 cam, also the dual setup is definitely costing you some. Step up to a 37 and some high ratio rockers and I am willing to bet things will improve as well. How does the bike feel while riding?
BTW, like the DIN correction factor, only the second one I have ever seen on this forum.
 

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2:1 for sure!!!!!!
Cyclerama 575 cam...... > Call Wes

Also just remember 1 very important thing its the TQ that gets you there!
 

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IronButt
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Just ride the bike.

If you gotta have the 100/100 install a 2-1 pipe Super trapp would be my choice on that with the kit you have and start playing with the disc count, you will get your 100/100.

Being that you are so close to the goal you want, a pipe would be the most simple way to reach your goal. Either way the pipe is holding you back. Betting the pipe will get you there.. If you want more then a cam that would work with that head would be the next choice. With that compression and port set up a woods 8 would get you well over your goal.
 

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Gearhead
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My thinking is that the dip between 2 & 3,000 would be helped greatlly by removeing the true deuls and affixing a good 2 into 1 pipe. If it does not help then I would suspect the 2"intake valve as haveing something to due with it. Rev purf stg 3 heads should be set up for a higher lift cam than the 26 so before messing with the heads I would look into a cam with a higher lift. Dave Mackie has a .590 that I have used with good results on 95" biulds. Big Boyz has a nice compairison chart on ther web site here: http://www.bigboyzcycles.com/tccams.htm Also you can look at this video :http://www.youtube.com/user/Revolut...5og0cymbpL5LShu_BwOGHkAzAg#p/u/38/zwjpwC0ZM44
 

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You have motor components that say GO!
You have the traffic director (cam) and pipe saying GO LESS, SLOWER
Consider a Wood TW6H cam and a Supertrap or Fatcat pipe. All this assume you actually have 10.5/1 compression and without fluid measuring no way of knowing that for certain. The compression may need to be adjusted.
All that said if it is just the number thing that is bugging you then bag it and ride it. A little more tuning could get you over the peaks but the butt dyno would not know or notice any difference except the pressure on the seat would be a little less (lighter wallet)
 

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Just tell everybody you got 100/100 and buy the house a beer. What you are going to spend to get an extra 2 or 3 HP, for me, is not worth it. On the other hand if you want 105/105 it probably wouldn't be that much more. You won't be able to feel 2 Ft/lbs. Heck, dyno it on a different day and you can get that difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks so far guys, never thought about a 2:1 pipe but i guess that's an option, i had thought about and have my eye on an Andrews 37, not sure about a Woods TW6H cam but i'll look into that too.

The main reason for flattening out the curve is that i pull a whiskey cask trailer (see attached) and just love to out grunt the solo riders out of the many twisties we have in UK, i haven't tried it with the trailer just yet as i wan't to put a few more miles on the motor, trouble is winter has well & truly arrived here and riding days are disapearing fast :-(

strokerjlk - something got lost in translating the date, in UK we go DD/MM/YY and working for a Dallas, Texas based company this happens all the time! it was dyno'd Monday last.

Thanks once again guys.
 

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Ah, you're towing something. In that case buy everybody a whiskey....:clap:
Actually getting rid of the true duals should fix the torque curve. That is probably the cheapest first step. If you are still not satisfied the 37 is good but you are moving the torque curve to the right and that may not be what you want with the trailer.
 

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Just back from my local dyno with my 2003 anniversary Road King Classic, after a good hour of running and tweaking they got the figures to 97HP & 98TQ - i was pleased but a wee bit frustrated at not quite reaching the ton.

I have a question i'm hoping you guys can help me with some advice... i think my cam choice isn't working so am looking for suggestions?

Here's the current set up (an eBay special:));

- Revolution Performance Stage 3 CNC Ported heads (2"inlet 1.63"ex tulip valves with 1.8" inlet ports, decked to 84cc's
- SE Forged domed 10.5:1 pistons on 1546cc bore (95ci)
- Horsepower Inc 51mm throttle body with 1.8" inlet manifold + K&N
- Fulsac True Dual headers with V&H 4" mufflers
-Andrews TW26G cams

Take a look at the dyno sheet and you can see my frustration, i was hoping for a flatter torque curve - what do you guys suggest to correct this?

Thanks for your help & advice.
get rid of the pipes...Junk doesnt make horsepower @gree: 99% of all exhaust are purchased for LQQKS and how loud they are! :spank: Noise never equates into Horse Power...just Noise :redrolf:

a true performance 2 into 1 step header from RB Racing in Ca.will get ya there! Go for the LSR-PRO STOCK 2-1 "SPYDER" They make and race the record holder bikes @ the Salt Flats in Utah ! Harley Motors need the back pressure and the sonic pulses and a true pro built 2 into 1 exhaust helps the motor achive the big #'s production pipes are not the way to go RB Racing will out perform all of them !

Harley motors always perform better with a 2 into 1 system PERIOD ! Also get a set of spark plugs from BRISK USA ENTERPRISES that are correct for that motor! If you want Big HP numbers you have to use what the big boys [email protected]: Oh Ya LSR stands for "Land Speed Record"

And next time have Randy @ Hyperformance build ya a Pro motor ! He can help with the cam ??? but have the info on what your heads flow when ya call him Good Luck ! :clap::cya::cya:
 

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strokerjlk - something got lost in translating the date, in UK we go DD/MM/YY and working for a Dallas, Texas based company this happens all the time! it was dyno'd Monday last.
got ya.
hook on to that trailer,and see what she does. it just might surprise you.
 

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Velocity of combustion gases into the chamber is key to power. Did you use the 26 cam for bottom end tq. My guess is yes and needed them for those numbers.
However. Yes however.
To me your build looks like a pre-requiset to a 103 or 107" build. Is that where your going? If so, spending on strokeing it is what to do now. Why spend more $$ on pipes and cam and another dyno now on a 95" when you should go to 103" that compliments those heads, pipes, tb. etc. If it were me I would ride it as is until 103" or107" upgrade. IMHO you wont feel or see much if any difference in TQ/HP (plus 5-7) for the money that it will cost you by cams,pipe change and dyno on 95" at this time.
Your heads can and will work better for delivering and re-gaining the loss of velocity or inertia of combustion gasses by going to 103 or 107". Your getting out as much tq/hp as a 95" will ever give, and you wont find many 95" above the 105 tq/hp with out crank work like welding, balanceing and liteing the flywheels. More unessery cost for you at this time.
Your heads are where the power is but you need to increase the combustion volume area by going 103 which in turn will increase the speed and velocity of gasses and have tq hp of 110 and above. You will feel the difference and have a more reliable harmonicly operating motor for you money.
Use your $$ and go to a 103 or 107. You could also sell the 26 cams and the new 95" jugs and tops to offset the cost.
So in closeing, a question. What is the bottom line to stroke it compared to stay 95" for a few extra ponies.?
PS: Im sure it with good intentions that you are useing stage three heads combined with a stage one crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks angelflights, i thought long and hard about swapping cranks but it's cost prohibitive in UK and they're like chickes teeth to get hold of used. Thanks to all the help i've had i'm considering swapping my Andrews 26 for 37g's and probably going for a V&H pro pipe. I reckon this will get me the torque curve i'm looking for when pulling my trailer.

I like your build, did you ever dyno it?
 

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Gearhead
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Put the 2 into 1 on first and see what that does for you. You might be surprised at what you see. And not need much(if anything) else.
 
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