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Discussion Starter #1
Ever since April of this year when the bike ran a little warm in Death Valley I have had problems. Heard what I thought was lifter noise when I got her home, pulled the lifters and yep the rollers were scored and the roller pin on the lifters were very loose. Couldn't see much on the cam but the lobes appeared OK in the bike. Put the new set of HD lifters in the bike took it for a test drive and still had some lifter noise, decided to pull the cam and see what's up. Cam lobe on the outer side very wiped out (Andrews - EV23) opted to put in the EV-27 (FLHT) so it's heavy, installed the same new lifters (under 50 miles) onto the new cam. Fired it up, lifter noise at it was is gone but then I heard additional valve train noise that is supposed to be normal with the ev-27. Ok fine, i'll run it, lately it's been getting worse, Andrews says maybe gear clearence is excessive and causing ticking sound (not a ticking sound),, today got way worse on a 200 mile run, thought it was going to explode! under a light roll on or roll off the noise gets pretty loud (clattering engine sound) goes away (96.2%) under a slight load. Sounds like it did when I had to change the lifters before but worse. Would it make a difference under load no load? am I missing a problem here? don't want to waste another cam and lifters. Did I make a mistake when I put the almost new roller lifters on the new cam? Oil pressure is good! 30-35 on the road with S&S pump and cooler.
 

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change all the lifters....their only $25.00 a piece. If it was a mechanical problem it would be there all the time, a lifter will come and go.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks pretty granted that the lifters will need to be changed out (again) but there is probably only 600 miles on the set installed (did not enter the mileage on that service) and really would like to know why I have another failure on this part. Roller lifters on my understanding require no break in period or certain RPM for a duration of time.
 

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Rattpac said:
Looks pretty granted that the lifters will need to be changed out (again) but there is probably only 600 miles on the set installed (did not enter the mileage on that service) and really would like to know why I have another failure on this part. Roller lifters on my understanding require no break in period or certain RPM for a duration of time.
If your oil pressure is good, and the pushrods are adjusted properly, and the lifters are in good shape, AND it's running good, then just leave it alone. Noisy lifters are basically normal on an EVO. The only thing that's worth checking now is the pushrod to tube clearence. If you can feel tapping on the front exhaust pushrod tube, then the pushrod is hitting it (common, and not worth messing with, IMHO) :)
 

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Check all the oil lines, as one or more may have collapsed. A friend's EVO was eating lifters because of this. He had erratic oil pressure, which got worse when warm. Changed the lines and lifters and it's quiet again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll check the oil lines but do have good oil pressure 35 when cool and 30 when warm at 2500 rpm. Idle drops quite a bit, ( 5-7lbs) but I understand they all do this. As for just running it, you haven't heard it. On the freeway sounds like a rod or piston about to come thru the cylinder wall.
 

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Rattpac said:
I'll check the oil lines but do have good oil pressure 35 when cool and 30 when warm at 2500 rpm. Idle drops quite a bit, ( 5-7lbs) but I understand they all do this. As for just running it, you haven't heard it. On the freeway sounds like a rod or piston about to come thru the cylinder wall.
If it's THAT loud, then it may not be in the valvetrain. Mine sounds like someone is in there tapping the engine with a tack hammer. It's intermittent, though, depending on temp, rpm, engine load, etc. Some days I can't hear it at all, other days it's very loud.

First, check your pushrod adjustment. It wouldn't hurt to pull the cam again and inspect that area. You did change the inner cam bearing when you changed the cam, didn't you? It's a cheap part and should be changed every time the cam is changed. If everything looks good under the cam cover, make sure you pushrods aren't bent. Roll them along a flat surface (like a pane of glass). If they are bent at all, replace them.

Your problem might be a compensating sprocket/spring if it's coming from the bottom end. Does it sound like it's coming from the left or right of the engine, the top or bottom? A worn rod bearing or wrist pin would sound like a valvetrain problem, but louder, and it would go away under load.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well no, I did not change the bearing because it had a torrington bearing installed when the top end got a rebuild about 20,000 miles ago and yes I should have checked it anyway but assumed. I am thinking also maybe a bad wrist pin, however the pistons are forged KB's. and again they have been in there for only 20,000. Anyway to check a piston pin without disassembley??
 

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Rattpac said:
Well no, I did not change the bearing because it had a torrington bearing installed when the top end got a rebuild about 20,000 miles ago and yes I should have checked it anyway but assumed. I am thinking also maybe a bad wrist pin, however the pistons are forged KB's. and again they have been in there for only 20,000. Anyway to check a piston pin without disassembley??
Just because there is only 20k miles on it doesn't mean that it's in good condition. Parts can fail at any time. Maybe something was installed incorrectly the first time i.e. incorrect tolerences during assembly, or maybe there is a defective part in there (it happens). Nothing is 100% guaranteed to be perfect just because it's new.

I don't know of any way to check the wrist pins without pulling the jugs... but that's easy enough to do. Just follow the factory manual. You can have it apart in less then an hour. That way you can inspect the entire area to ensure that there is no other damage in there.

Are you sure it's in the engine and not a loose part somewhere else? Maybe a cracked or loose engine mount? These things should always be checked first. A loose part can often sound like it's coming from inside the engine.
 

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Yep, the only thing "NEW" means is that it's clean.

Did you ensure the lifter blocks were properly aligned when you swapped lifters? A small degree of change at the block can have a significant affect on the pushrod.

I'm not aware of a procedure to check the wristpin without removing the jug. As previously stated, it's not a big deal, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Finally getting to tear down

Finally getting around to tearing down the evo. Pulled the lifter blocks and lifters all look Good. Checked for any excessive play in cam with fingers and noticed none. Starting to disassemble the bike to pull the jugs and take a peek. Would a bad lower end cause the rapping noise?
 

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I wouldn't be suprised if a bad race on one of the rod big ends is your noise. When they first start to go, they will only make noise when,they are in a no, or light load state,such as when you are rolling down the road and you back off the throttle ever so slightly. It is kinda like the egine is not propelling the bike, and the drivetrain is not loading the engine. Pull the top end, grab hold of the rods with the pistons removed and roll the engine overwith the rods. The stator, rotor assembly will offer some resistance, but try to feel any roughness as you rotate the engine. Check for any up or down play in the rods,usually they have to be pretty wasted to have any perceptable up or down play. Let us know!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Pulled down the engine. Forward rod wasted.... looks like bottom end time. I got a quote of about $850 and I supply a set of new H beam 4340 rods. Balancing is an extra $150.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the reply, when I pulled the motor down and inspected the valve train it was fine. Noise was from the rod. But thanks for the input.
 
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