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Discussion Starter #1
I currently have the 107 kit from Fuel Moto with the Woods 555 cams. I have pulled off my Rinehart 2:1 exhaust and installing D&D Fatcat with BB baffle onto the bike. It was mentioned, by a friend, that I should have the heads reworked due to they are stock 96 heads and they are holding me back. But unsure if having the head work done is really that beneficial; especially since I have the stock crank and worried about too much crank power.
I talked with Steve at AMS about their heads and he recommended doing the heads but don't want salesman tactics.
So I figure I'd get assistance from forum members.
 

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Ironbutt
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I currently have the 107 kit from Fuel Moto with the Woods 555 cams. I have pulled off my Rinehart 2:1 exhaust and installing D&D Fatcat with BB baffle onto the bike. It was mentioned, by a friend, that I should have the heads reworked due to they are stock 96 heads and they are holding me back. But unsure if having the head work done is really that beneficial; especially since I have the stock crank and worried about too much crank power.
I talked with Steve at AMS about their heads and he recommended doing the heads but don't want salesman tactics.
So I figure I'd get assistance from forum members.
No question that good headwork will usually result in more hp/tq. How much increase will you see and is it worth the expense - I don't know.

The big question is are you happy with bike's performance the way it is? If the answer is yes, then just ride and forget about the heads.

Do you have dyno numbers from your build? My 107 build numbers are posted below. This is with stage III heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No question that good headwork will usually result in more hp/tq. How much increase will you see and is it worth the expense - I don't know.

The big question is are you happy with bike's performance the way it is? If the answer is yes, then just ride and forget about the heads.

Do you have dyno numbers from your build? My 107 build numbers are posted below. This is with stage III heads.
Appreciate the reply.

I do not have any dyno numbers for my build since I am using Thundermax and the bike has not been on a dyno with this build.

The only issue that I am having is hot starts with the build, which I know that CR's will solve that problem. My current compression ration is 10.2:1, which is probably causing a lot of the issues.

Just figured I'd ask since I had the exhaust off as to whether get the heads done or wait till winter time.

Other than that the bike runs without a problem except as stated above.
 

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I currently have the 107 kit from Fuel Moto with the Woods 555 cams. I have pulled off my Rinehart 2:1 exhaust and installing D&D Fatcat with BB baffle onto the bike. It was mentioned, by a friend, that I should have the heads reworked due to they are stock 96 heads and they are holding me back. But unsure if having the head work done is really that beneficial; especially since I have the stock crank and worried about too much crank power.
I talked with Steve at AMS about their heads and he recommended doing the heads but don't want salesman tactics.
So I figure I'd get assistance from forum members.
I am interested in what folks tell you about this. I have a 2008 Road King Classic with the S & S 106 kit, D & D fat cats, and EZ start 551 cams. I took off the Rhinehart true duals and replaced with the 2 into 1 D & D when I put in the 106. Left the heads as they were: the stock 96 heads.

Bike makes good power: 112 ft/lbs of torque that kicks in at about 2000 rpm and stays there out to about 4500 rpm, and just under 100 hp at its peak.

Recently, though, I have been hearing some pinging when I roll on at 65mph or so -- if I twist it hard, I sometimes get the pinging.

So, will be interested to see how people answer your question.

Looking at the S &S web site which shows some dyno charts for CNC ported heads, it doesn't appear to me that the torque gain is particularly great... maybe not enough to justify the expense. The chart compares two 106 motors with S & S 106 kits and 585 cams on the same 2009 FLHT. One also has CNC ported heads and a 58 mm throttle body. max torque for the ported heads bike is about 112 ft/lbs... but the HP goes up quite a bit at the high rpm end: around 115 hp for ported heads, much less at high rpm for the non -ported: around 96

S & S reports is this: "Both 106 engines perform much better than stock, and are pretty comparable to each other until about 3500 rpm. At that point the engine with CNC heads continues to increase in torque and horsepower because it can still get enough air. This combination produces slightly less low and midrange torque, but significantly increases usable rpm and top end horsepower. A good choice for lighter bikes and racing applications. Both engines were tuned with Harley-Davidson® Race Tuner."

My take is that head work is a good idea if you want drag racing type speed and acceleration at high rpms... not something most bagger riders need or use. If you primarily want real good power (torque and acceleration) at the rpms where most dresser riders run, then the ported heads maybe are not of particular value.

For me, it might mitigate the pinging...but maybe an oil cooler could do that too.

Here is the link:

http://www.sscycle.com/feature/featureview.php?s_id=16

I remain interested, as are you, in hearing from others more experienced and expert.
 

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No question that good headwork will usually result in more hp/tq. How much increase will you see and is it worth the expense - I don't know.

The big question is are you happy with bike's performance the way it is? If the answer is yes, then just ride and forget about the heads.

Do you have dyno numbers from your build? My 107 build numbers are posted below. This is with stage III heads.
If you are going to take off the heads to put in compression releases anyway, then maybe that is a good time to have the head work done...although as I just posted, only if you want that HP at the high RPM end.

I use the S & S EZ start cams and have no starting problems and do not need CRs.
 

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I currently have the 107 kit from Fuel Moto with the Woods 555 cams. I have pulled off my Rinehart 2:1 exhaust and installing D&D Fatcat with BB baffle onto the bike. It was mentioned, by a friend, that I should have the heads reworked due to they are stock 96 heads and they are holding me back. But unsure if having the head work done is really that beneficial; especially since I have the stock crank and worried about too much crank power.
I talked with Steve at AMS about their heads and he recommended doing the heads but don't want salesman tactics.
So I figure I'd get assistance from forum members.
with that kit and the .555 cams mild porting, clean up, bigger exhaust valve is an option. I have the same kit for my RG and will be doing a 1.90 intake and av&v springs. You can still use the stock valves and springs, but if you're going to have the heads ported go all the way and definately install manual compression releases. Probally would have went with the standard or quiet baffle instead of big bore baffle in my opinion. Bike will breath better, run cooler unless you get carried away with compression, more power, greater acceleration also with head porting. If the comp is at 10.2 that should be no problem with comp releases, Fuel Motto mentioned they go up to 10.5 with the ported heads when I spoke with them. At 10.2 you'll be golden on the bagger!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
with that kit and the .555 cams mild porting, clean up, bigger exhaust valve is an option. I have the same kit for my RG and will be doing a 1.90 intake and av&v springs. You can still use the stock valves and springs, but if you're going to have the heads ported go all the way and definately install manual compression releases. Probally would have went with the standard or quiet baffle instead of big bore baffle in my opinion. Bike will breath better, run cooler unless you get carried away with compression, more power, greater acceleration also with head porting. If the comp is at 10.2 that should be no problem with comp releases, Fuel Motto mentioned they go up to 10.5 with the ported heads when I spoke with them. At 10.2 you'll be golden on the bagger!
Appreciate the response.
on the BB baffle that was recommended by D&D due to the bike being a 107. They stated that anything over 103ci they recommend the bb baffle, which I opted for the wrapped BBQ baffle over the standard baffle.
Fuel Moto also told me that CR's are not needed with this build but I do get hot starts and I believe that they are needed but not trying to go against Jamie.
I'm not out to chase HP or TQ numbers just trying to decide whether it's beneficial to spend the $800 or so dollars to put ported heads on the bike.

Thanks Again,
 

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I installed my FM107 kit along with a set of FM Level "B" heads. CR @ 10.4. I will be having the bike tuned soon and will post #'s. Exhaust is a Bassani Road Rage II 2:1.
 

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Appreciate the response.
on the BB baffle that was recommended by D&D due to the bike being a 107. They stated that anything over 103ci they recommend the bb baffle, which I opted for the wrapped BBQ baffle over the standard baffle.
Fuel Moto also told me that CR's are not needed with this build but I do get hot starts and I believe that they are needed but not trying to go against Jamie.
I'm not out to chase HP or TQ numbers just trying to decide whether it's beneficial to spend the $800 or so dollars to put ported heads on the bike.

Thanks Again,
I had the BB baffle on my dyna and it was very loud and I liked the sound of the QB better. I f you were using a s&s 585 or woods 9b cams, with a 58mm. tb go with the BB baffle. Seeing the Woods .555 are fairly mild cams, moderate comp. and stock tb are more in line with the standard or qb in my non expert opinion. Hopefully one of the real experts will chime in.
 

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one can port for velocity to help torque or they can hog out the ports for top end at the cost of low speed velocity and torque. the key is a nice balance.
 

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one can port for velocity to help torque or they can hog out the ports for top end at the cost of low speed velocity and torque. the key is a nice balance.
Yep, my head porter asked me what rocker arms I'm using so at what lift the heads need to be flowed at. Obviously not going to have to worry about flow #'s at .600 lift. with stock rockers.
 

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Go To kingofcubes.com look @ his web site also look what he does to stock or SE heads ! and read up on his R&R Heads as replacments for yours!

Most heads poters are butchers....making them bigger doesnt mean there better or faster

A reworked head has to work with the intake and exhaust systems but it also can be reworked for both of those while allowing the motor to run cooler !

Randy sent my buddy his 2.5 stage kit with cam, pistons, heads reworked, 95 cu in and it took the motor from 85 hp to over 112 hp and we are in Denver @ 5280 ft high Now we said we should have gone for the stage 4 set up !

Randy is the man Hyperformance in Iowa kingofcubes.com

dont settle for 2nd place
 

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With just a "street port" (rounding corners , smoothing exhaust port, roughing intake port, valve job etc.) the engine will breathe sooo much better. Doing this will NOT cost $800.00 and it will make a difference...IMO..... Big boyz head porting does a street port for $299.00..manual releases $40.00...machine heads for releases $40.00...new head gaskets $25.00....Total is $404.00 not counting any labor...If it were me, thats what I would do...Unless I had money laying around needing spent......for stage 3 or 4 heads
 

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Go To kingofcubes.com look @ his web site also look what he does to stock or SE heads ! and read up on his R&R Heads as replacments for yours!

Most heads poters are butchers....making them bigger doesnt mean there better or faster

A reworked head has to work with the intake and exhaust systems but it also can be reworked for both of those while allowing the motor to run cooler !

Randy sent my buddy his 2.5 stage kit with cam, pistons, heads reworked, 95 cu in and it took the motor from 85 hp to over 112 hp and we are in Denver @ 5280 ft high Now we said we should have gone for the stage 4 set up !

Randy is the man Hyperformance in Iowa kingofcubes.com

dont settle for 2nd place
Agreed, R&R has some new stuff out for the very setup you have, won't find it on their website but Randy could fill you in.
 

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I did a BB kit with cams a couple years back. Great gains from the BB and Andrews 37 gear drive cams. A few months later I came back and did the heads. I thought it was a complete waste of money. Did I pick up some power..... Yes, a little bit. IMHO, was it worth the time, effort and most importantly $$$..... NO, NO, NO! If you do it all at once I think head work is worth it, if not I don't think so. I have dyno sheets on this board to show the before and after results, check them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did a BB kit with cams a couple years back. Great gains from the BB and Andrews 37 gear drive cams. A few months later I came back and did the heads. I thought it was a complete waste of money. Did I pick up some power..... Yes, a little bit. IMHO, was it worth the time, effort and most importantly $$$..... NO, NO, NO! If you do it all at once I think head work is worth it, if not I don't think so. I have dyno sheets on this board to show the before and after results, check them out.
Thanks for your advice.

I decided to install the pipes since they were in the garage and I was unsure if I was going to do the heads or not. Instead of paying the price for major head work I'm going to do some research for some small enhancements and some compression releases, which will be later in the winter.
 

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The whole package needs to work together. Big cams, free flowing exhaust and intakes don't do much unless the heads will flow the volume of air all those mods need. Compression, valve size, port configuration and chamber size all play into how the engine is going to perform. Then there's the pistons. There's an old saying speed (horse power) cost money how fast do you want to go.
 

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Porting the heads will improve throttle response, how fast the bike pulls from 2000-6000 RPM, engine temperature etc.

Is it worth it? Only you can answer that question.. I wouldn't build a performance engine without touching the heads, or the crank for that matter.

BTW - If you wanna sell your RInehart 2:1 lemme know.
 

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I had the heads ported on my last bike when I did cams and valves. That particular bike would pull all the way to redline. In my limited experience with heads, you get that extra top end that you would otherwise be missing w/o head work.
 
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