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Discussion Starter #1
I am sure this has been asked and answered s million times. Sorry in advance.

What are the thoughts on these brands of quick install versions?

Screamin Eagle
Andrew's
S&S
Smith brothers? (Havf a set that can utilize the factory pushrod tubes apparently)


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I have no issue with any of them, long as they are steel. With that said, I'd prefer a nice set of tapered non adjustable rods. 24-7-365 on a twin cam, it so easy to pull the rocker box lids on them. And most of them need the rocker supports drilled and locked anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have no issue with any of them, long as they are steel. With that said, I'd prefer a nice set of tapered non adjustable rods. 24-7-365 on a twin cam, it so easy to pull the rocker box lids on them. And most of them need the rocker supports drilled and locked anyway.
Rocker support drilled and locked?

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Discussion Starter #5
Enlarge the oil drain holes in the support plate and install rocker lockers to stop the shaft chatter. Some of them also need to have the end play shimmed down to something reasonable.
Oh ok cool. Is enlarging the drain holes something that is often required? Never heard of it being needed to be done.

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Oh ok cool. Is enlarging the drain holes something that is often required? Never heard of it being needed to be done.

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It helps the oil drain out of the rocker box after it's job is done up there. Some don't show symptoms of the oil collecting up there, some do. I think it depends on how hard the bike is run, how much oil gets sent to the top, amount of squeeze getting past the rings, etc but it never heard of a problem opening up the drains. Not a bad idea to install lockers when trying to kill some of the topend noise.

As far as pushrods go, I have S&S adjustable (not quickee) in two of the three bikes in our stable. The third has stockers as I haven't opened it up yet. A heavier pushrod isn't a good idea in a high reving engine but I don't push my V twin tractor motors high enough to worry about it. Being that I am an aging carport mechanic with arthritis, back and joint problems etc, without a dedicated maintenance shop with a lift and such, I'd rather use adjustables to avoid pulling the tank, rockers, etc if it's not necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It helps the oil drain out of the rocker box after it's job is done up there. Some don't show symptoms of the oil collecting up there, some do. I think it depends on how hard the bike is run, how much oil gets sent to the top, amount of squeeze getting past the rings, etc but it never heard of a problem opening up the drains. Not a bad idea to install lockers when trying to kill some of the topend noise.

As far as pushrods go, I have S&S adjustable (not quickee) in two of the three bikes in our stable. The third has stockers as I haven't opened it up yet. A heavier pushrod isn't a good idea in a high reving engine but I don't push my V twin tractor motors high enough to worry about it. Being that I am an aging carport mechanic with arthritis, back and joint problems etc, without a dedicated maintenance shop with a lift and such, I'd rather use adjustables to avoid pulling the tank, rockers, etc if it's not necessary.
Thanks for the details, I had heard of enlarging the drain holes but only once before and didn't understand the need or how much larger would be safe to enlarge them.
I am.a big confused, you don't have the quicker S&S adjustable rods just the regular ones? I thought the regular adjustable ones needed the rocker removed for install. I must have misunderstood or something

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There's a discussion from from the past. I miss having those guys on the forum.


This is what I'm running in my '04 Road King and '15 Electra Glide. I don't have a problem removing and replacing them with the rockers and rocker covers in place. It's a little tight but doable. I first installed them in the King in 2007 when I did a 88" to 95" build. Recently replaced the lifters as a precaution by just removing the pushrods. Never had the rocker covers off of the Electra Glide. Replaced the crap "C" series lifters @ 10,000 miles because of noise. Cut the pushrods, changed lifters, installed adjustables.

Therm, tall terry and a bunch of others know more than I'll ever know. Pay close attention to them. I'm just a hack with a cold beer. 🍺
 

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Removing the stock pushrods without removing the rocker covers requires a bolt cutter. Cut the push rods and pull them out, then put in the adjustable rods and tubes. I bought a small cutter just for this job the last time I had to get in there. But my engine is also stock, so I'm not working it hard enough to worry about the adjustable rods being weak. I think I went with the regular S&S adjustable rods, that was a few years and a concussion away, can't exactly remember what I bought.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Removing the stock pushrods without removing the rocker covers requires a bolt cutter. Cut the push rods and pull them out, then put in the adjustable rods and tubes. I bought a small cutter just for this job the last time I had to get in there. But my engine is also stock, so I'm not working it hard enough to worry about the adjustable rods being weak. I think I went with the regular S&S adjustable rods, that was a few years and a concussion away, can't exactly remember what I bought.
Thanks for the info. I too suffered amajor concussion in 2014. Never been the same so I totally get it.
My bike is bone stock and a 96"
I want it to have more get up and go.
Big difference from my 99 sportster with s Buell top end, came etc..
I have the Supertrapp Supermeg 2 into 1 and an SE air cleaner waiting to go on. I was going to do a big bore but will wait until I have more miles kn it. So I figured a mild cam upgrade for now. :)

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the strongest quick install adjustable are Rivera taperlites,,, last time I needed a set,, there were none to be found...
like therm alread said,, the rest are about the same,,, look for steel.. the quick installs at this point goes to S&S for me,,, I have quite a few on the road with no issues from clients..

a 1 piece push rod is always the strongest,, but must be custom made for any applications that use non stock thickness gaskets as well as milled heads and 0 decked cylinders..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
the strongest quick install adjustable are Rivera taperlites,,, last time I needed a set,, there were none to be found...
like therm alread said,, the rest are about the same,,, look for steel.. the quick installs at this point goes to S&S for me,,, I have quite a few on the road with no issues from clients..

a 1 piece push rod is always the strongest,, but must be custom made for any applications that use non stock thickness gaskets as well as milled heads and 0 decked cylinders..
The only taper-lites I find are at zippers and they say that they are aircraft quality aluminum
Part #480-000 on the zipper's site

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The only taper-lites I find are at zippers and they say that they are aircraft quality aluminum
Part #480-000 on the zipper's site

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I don't believe the Rivera's are made any more, they are not the Zipper's brand. Stay away from aluminum rods for a street motor unless you like to remove and inspect them often. They can be prone to breakage or separation from the tips and shaft.
 

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Smith Brothers are stout.Not the easiest to adjust.FuelMoto rebrands them and sells them under their name. Andrews pushrods work fine for the money.Stay away from aluminum.Harley Screamin Eagle Perfect Fit pushrods are available in different lengths depending on your needs.
 

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Whichever brand you choose make sure you read the directions. I know SE and S&S are different adjustments after 0 lash not sure on the other brands and how they vary. But assuming they’re all the same adjustments could cost you a valve real quick haha
 

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aluminum taperlites? sounds like a bogus copy,, like chinwanese to me.. they all shared tapered seamless chrome moly tubing and a 9mm adjuster diameter,, with 40 tpi.. as well as ex install...
taperlites arent zippers products. Rivera engineering is,, the same folks who brought us the pro clutch.

when it comes to adjustment,, the tpi as well as the hydraulic plungers free travel must be factored in...

you can do a bunch of math to find the right depth,, or,, get the lifter on the heel of the cam,,, then count the nut flats or turns from contact to the bottom of plunger travel,, divide by 2 and adjust all to the same # of flats.. you decide which works best for you
 

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Had SE ....hated them, I have S&S quickies, love them without going into detail the threads and locking nuts are better

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