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Hi all, I am an avid reader of the forum, have read just about every post on cams, would not post unless I felt my question really wasn't answered. I live in Texas, bought my first HD, an FLSTNI (Deluxe fuel injected) in June of 2005, and as of end of my ride last night, have put 7,700 miles on it. I mainly ride single with an occassional female passenger. I do mainly 150 to 300 mile day rides, in the 50 to 70mph range, in the back country, but do occassionally rip it up with my friends. Reliability is a must. I have Stage I SE upgrade (air cleaner), Cycle Shack Slip-ons with performance baffles, and PCIII USB map for the intake/exhaust setup. I want to add cams, but do not want to go 95". It's simply an economics and learning issue at this point. If I plunk down seven hundred down for a cam job and change later, well, chalk that up to learning. ALL I want to do is add cams, am not going to crack into the top-end of the motor at all, will not be porting, etc., etc. I have a friend who rides a 88" SE Stage I '03 Dyna (carb) with the 203 and it is night and day to the stock cam. I have another friend who rides an 88" SE Stage I Heritage (EFI) with the Andrews 37 cam. He really needs that compression from the 95" and it is his intention to do so. Am not really into that cam for that reason. AFTER reading all the good posts I am down to Andrews26, SE 203, SE 204. My understanding is the A26 would be more low-end torque than the 203, and, the 204 would be less low-end than 203 but still more than the stock cams. Remember, I won't miss what I never had, so, I am just comparing really to the stock cam. In my case, to me, the obvious choice is the 203 or A26. My really question is about that 204. I looked at it and it seems pretty close to the Andrews 37, but, I have read posts that say the 204 is just about the same as the 203 but opens up the mid-to-top end a little more. So, what about it folks? If I go 204, will I still get better low to mid range pull than the stock cams and get a little extra benefit at the top? Or, is it 203 or 26 for me? Sorry for the long post and all the limitations, but, in reading in the forum, it seems folks would prefer more info than less when offering their advice. Thanks for your time and input. Apologies for my lack of knowledge, I know I know basically nothing.
 

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That sounds like a good post to me. Very few understand engine mods, even though lots are nearly an expert. If I was in your shoes I would be asking the manufacturer for his published matter on the particular cam you are considering. He understands his product. After hearing from them you should be in a far better position to make a choice as things will become clear that you never imagined, or imagined with any real clarity. Ill bet they all have great info to pass out.
 

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I would eliminate both the 203-204 cams. If you are going in there to change cams...go gear drive now. If you change cams at a later date..you will already have the gears. The 26g is very much like the 203"s . The 37g's are out because of your compression. But the S&S 510's are between the 26 and 37 and would be a viable choice.
But gear drive it so you never have to worry about tensioners. And never is a long time.
 

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I put in 26G on my EG and could not be happier. SE A/C and Pipes and carb rejet.
I put a set in a friends Heritage and he loved them.
Ridability is night and day. Pulls hills better, passes without downshifting.
Just my 2 cents
 

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Three of the main indicators of a low end torque cam are low Overlap (most important), low Intake Valve Close Angle and short Intake Duration. Rule of thumb: The lower the numbers the more low end torque. Of course you can get too low, which is the case with the stock cams. Also consider that what is good for the low end is bad for the top end and ideal for one displacement will not be for another.

The 204 has 5 degrees less overlap, 2 degrees lower intake close angle, but 2 degrees more intake duration, so it produces more low end torque than a 203. I really consider these big bore cams because of their durations.

The TW-26 has 10 degrees less overlap and 10 degress less duration, but 1 degree higher valve close than the 204.

For an 88 your choice should be between the Andrews TW-21 and 26.

I would add the Crane HTC-300-2, but Rock and Doc would yell at me. Something about the profile (ramping) of the Crane not being up to snuff.
 

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I can testify about the Crane HTC-300-2 not being up to snuff. I put it in at first prior to going to gear drive 26G. Like night and day. Crane was barely better than stock IMHO.
 

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AAL said:
Genoway, I've seen other posts where it was suggested to stay away from the tw 21 and 26 cams for 95" applications. Can you elaborate on this. Thanks.
Sinjin98 wants the best cams for a 88".

I did state:
Genoway said:
Also consider that what is ... ideal for one displacement will not be for another.
Now I still wouldn't stay away from them in a 95. Head work is almost wasted on a TW-21, but not on a TW-26. Look at BaggerDad's posts in the dyno section or at the TW-26G on Dewey's website. In a 95 no low lift cams have more torque under 3000 rpm than these cams, which makes them excellent for baggers and heavy riders or two up. For light bikes with lighter riders or riders who always rev high there are a lot of cams with more torque above 3000 rpm. The highly rated Andrews TW-37 has more over lap, longer duration and higher close angle, but not so much that it doesn't do a balancing act between low end and high end in a 95". That is what make it a good all-round cam that fits most riders needs. The TW-37 works well in a 95" or a 98". In a 98" with headwork it actually mirrors the TW-26 curve on a 95" with headwork but with 5-8 more hp.

Now as we depart from Sinjin98's parameters, for max torque under 3000 rpm in a 95"-98", look at Wood's TW-5G a low overlap, short duration, early valve close, high lift cam.
 
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