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98" worth it??

3K views 23 replies 15 participants last post by  floyd78 
#1 ·
I was wondering is the 3 extra inches worth the 500.00 ? Or are you better off using that money for somthing else?
 
#3 ·
Milehog said:
I asked myself the same question & decided I'd get more bang for the buck with headwork.
But say your going to get headwork regardless, is it worth it then?
 
#5 · (Edited)
Is a Harley worth the extra $$$ over a Victory? It's purely a hypothetical question that only you can answer after you research it and determine what is right for you.
 
#6 ·
mori55 said:
But say your going to get headwork regardless, is it worth it then?
Hey Mori,

Just thought I would throw my two cents in. There is nothing wrong with a great set of finely prepared OEM cylinders. The advantages that the 98" kit have are pretty vast though. I'll run a few down a few for ya.

1. Larger bore size physically unshrouds the valve curtain area and allows the head (OEM or ported) to work better. Improves low lift/low velocity flow=improved torque.

2. Sheds heat 5 times more efficiently than a standard cast iron sleeved cylinder. (Independant study at Northwestern University) Physics 101 - All aluminum pot cools down way quicker than a cast iron pot. These things are cooled with air and oil.

3. Nickel-Silicon-Carbide has 10 times the wear resistance of conventional cast iron liners. It would cost you more than the difference to tear yours down for a hone and oversize.

4. Lower ring drag coefficient by nature of the plating in the bore.

5. Proprietary, aerospace grade, high silicon content casting.

6. Warranteed for LIFE against warpage or plating defects.


Thanks for the time!

BN
 
#8 ·
And in order to get similar numbers out of a 95" that you can get from a MILD 98", you have to spend alot of money on head work. And the hot 95 may not be as reliable as the mild 98".
So, for the extra $500.00, I think it is well worth it.

JMHO

YB
 
#9 ·
Hey Mori, you rode along side of me and watched me dissappear, right? I just got my dyno done yesterday. The HP is down a little, we're discussing changing the carb, but I posted 99 lb/ft of torque. And there is still more in there! Steve is working with me to find the last bits of power and tq. Here's another thing to consider. He talked with the tech yesterday while my bike was on the dyno. Gave him some tips. He called me today, on his dime to ask how things ended up and if I'm happy with the numbers I got. 50 minutes later, we hung up. You gonna get that kind of support from another company? Hell, thats worth the 500 clams right there!!

Oh yea, if you thought it was fast the other week, you shoud see her now!!!! And... theres more to come!!

And one last thing. Sure, the extra three inches never hurt anyone, but seriously folks..... physics tell us that a square motor makes power and TORQUE! The 98" is a 4X4. The 95" is undersized bore so you will never get the same numbers using part for part. (ie: same cams, exhaust etc. etc. in a 98" will beat a 95")
 
#10 ·
So what are you looking at for costs? I got stock motor and will go gear cams and ?" in the next week, hopefully. Are you still doing heads with 98" I got a helicoil in one of my heads, so I am a little reluctant to do head work. In case I need to buy new one someday. Then again if I got the heads off....
 
#11 ·
My bill was just under $1500.00. I did NOT do cams, I already had S&S 510g's in there. I did: 98" bbls/pistons, Cometic gaskets, Comp Cams lifters, headwork. I had to have a couple of cooling fins straightened out (poor packing on my part) and a spark plug thread repaired. I did the new tulip nitrate valves too.
 
#12 ·
revperf said:
Hey Mori,

Just thought I would throw my two cents in. There is nothing wrong with a great set of finely prepared OEM cylinders. The advantages that the 98" kit have are pretty vast though. I'll run a few down a few for ya.

1. Larger bore size physically unshrouds the valve curtain area and allows the head (OEM or ported) to work better. Improves low lift/low velocity flow=improved torque.

2. Sheds heat 5 times more efficiently than a standard cast iron sleeved cylinder. (Independant study at Northwestern University) Physics 101 - All aluminum pot cools down way quicker than a cast iron pot. These things are cooled with air and oil.

3. Nickel-Silicon-Carbide has 10 times the wear resistance of conventional cast iron liners. It would cost you more than the difference to tear yours down for a hone and oversize.

4. Lower ring drag coefficient by nature of the plating in the bore.

5. Proprietary, aerospace grade, high silicon content casting.

6. Warranteed for LIFE against warpage or plating defects.


Thanks for the time!

BN
See this why i asked the question theses are the things you find out if you ask.
Geezer, i just had to ask , tomorow i'm going to order the kit from Steve. In my book customer service is worth alot also.
Guy's thanks for your answers it helped me make up my mind.
 
#13 ·
WOW

Ok there are few other things the tq curve on the 98 is broader and starts lower, TQ is what is hurtling these over weight monster down the road , sooner you can get into the curve you are moving faster. And sure what man would't want three extra inches??? :banmep: Sorry could not stop myself.
 
#14 ·
Don't let facts ruin a good story...........

Geezer-Glide said:
And one last thing. Sure, the extra three inches never hurt anyone, but seriously folks..... physics tell us that a square motor makes power and TORQUE! The 98" is a 4X4. The 95" is undersized bore so you will never get the same numbers using part for part. (ie: same cams, exhaust etc. etc. in a 98" will beat a 95")
No offense intended, I certainly agree with your statements, but the figures are inaccurate as shown by this copy & paste from Rev Perf website
Bolt-on big bore kit, 98 ci 3-15/16 bore Revolution cylinders 10.5:1 forged pistons, pins, clips, rings head and base gaskets
 
#15 ·
The_Snowman said:
No offense intended, I certainly agree with your statements, but the figures are inaccurate as shown by this copy & paste from Rev Perf website
Bolt-on big bore kit, 98 ci 3-15/16 bore Revolution cylinders 10.5:1 forged pistons, pins, clips, rings head and base gaskets
No offense taken. Thanks for the update, I was wrong, thought they were 4". My bad!! #Spankme@
 
#18 ·
[B said:
Bolt-on big bore kit, 98 ci 3-15/16 bore Revolution cylinders 10.5:1 forged pistons, pins, clips, rings head and base gaskets [/B]
ok can someone point me where to find more info about what bore would make what c.i. with a stock 4" stroke? looking at revolution perf. web sight they show piston kits up to 4.25" can a factory cylinder be bored to that size? what is the limit for a factory cylinder? someone know the formula I need to figure c.i. from bore and stroke.. I should probably be able to figure it out but to many years since high school.
 
#20 ·
95 inch is the SAFE limit for a stock hd cylinder. 3 15/16 gives you a 98, bump that to 4.125 ( 4 1/8) you get a 107 go to 4.250 (4 1/4) and you get a 114 that is all on a stock crank stroke of 4 inch. Now go back to the 4.125 add a 4 3/8 (se 103 crank) you get 117, add the 4.25 and you get a 124.


Borex Borex.7854x stroke x 2 ( for a v-twin) that will get you displacment
 
#22 ·
ok I admit I am kind of getting ahead of myself here. Bike dont even arive till sometime in April or May. Got a set of cylinders off ebay a few weeks ago, factory takoffs a new Ultra for $40 or so. So 95 is as far as they can go then? If I want to go with the 98" I would need to go with the Revo. cylinders then or another brand aftermarket? have seen 2 brands mentioned in last few weeks forget the other one.
 
#24 ·
If you look there you will read that with the 100" sleeper kit you have to bore your cases for the sleves. So the 98" is still the biggest you can go without splitting the case. Go with the 98"............Great Craftsmanship!
 
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