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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Debating between 95 and 98. If I go 98. Do I need to update anything else? Belt? Carb? Starter?
Plan to port heads, adj push rods, gear cam. Already got oil cooler. Worried will get myself into situation chasing weak link. I put about 10-15k(I know, lot less then some) miles a year on, so I don't really want to be screwing around.
Thanks
 

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As long as your compression ratio and cam are matched to give you reasonable cold cranking compression, you shouldn't have any starter problems...so long as your battery and cables are in good condition.

If your compression ratio is on the high side, you'll want an adjustable ignition to dial back advance and prevent ping.

You'd do well to have a 42 or 44 mm carb I would think with the 98". Many people use them for 95" builds as well...but I would think the 98" would need it more.

I think if you have the money, a 98" build with heads worked for the andrews TW-37 set for 9.6 compression (keeping it low for more reliability) and a mikuni or reworked stock CV carb in the 42/44mm bore.

The few extra inches will help the bottom end given up by running compression to the low side of the 37's working scale. The nikasil lined, all aluminum cylinders, are warranteed for life, and are proven to run cooler since there is no iron lining retaining heat.
 

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Infidel
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Don't Forget The clutch!

I would do something with the clutch...at the least a SE spring but better yet a VPC.
 

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IronButt
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If you decide on on a any kit look at the cranking compression if you keep it in the 180-190 range you will be fine with a stock starter. To get the most gains form your 98 inch kit and if head work is done I would suggest that you go to a larger carb. Depending on your type of riding and bike there are two type I would use. The Mik 42 would work as well a cv44. The Mik 45 would be a bit much for a mild with mild compression and mild cam like the 37g.

Belt now that is another item, I have seen guys break belts on stock bikes,
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I go the primary off right now, would be the time to replace belt. But money is a little tight. Same with the carb. Is a 98" rideable, with stock carb and rejet? I already have jets. Could I replace it next year, or will I notice it now?

I am starting to think 95", may be the way to go. On one hand I don't want to go cheap, and regret it. But I also don't want to do the 98" half assed. Best thing for me may to 95", and neverr ride a 98" to know what I am missing. I am pretty happy with 88" just want more passing and hill power.

Ahh I hate decisions.

What I want to do eventually is buy high mileage bike and rip motor apart and go nuts.
 

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im pretty much in the same boat.
i already have my 95" kit sitting in a box and a set of take off 05 heads ready to be shipped for work
im concidering either using the 95" for the GF's bike and stepping up to the 98" :xhere:
or sticking with the 95 and never ride a 98"


decisions decisions decisions
 

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IronButt
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No you are ok to use the 40cv carb that is not doing it half assed as you stated. you will find that the tq numbers will be up nicley but the hp will bot be as high as you are lacking volume. I do have carbs on sale THOUGH:dunno: I have MIKS on sale in the monthly sale.
 

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0043--Licensed to Doof!
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Berserker, I have the 98" build and I'm using a stock CV 40 with a 200 main jet. It runs great! Steve and I have talked and my motor build can benefit by a 44 CV. If you're tight on $$$, stay with the 40 for now and buy what you can afford when you can afford it. You'll not hurt anything. I have GMR's head work on my stock heads, S&S 510g cams (close to the 37g) and V&H Propipe 2:1. My HP is a little down, thats why I'm going to a 44. The TQ right now is 99. I put in Comp Cams lifters (on Steve's recommendation) and kept my stock pushrods. (stronger and lighter) Keeps top end clatter to a minimum. Any other help I can give you PM me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Main reason I was going to adjustable pushrods, was in case leak or something don't have to pull top end off. Though maybe should jsut save the money, and time setting them up.

Can I just cut the pushrods with bolt cutter and install adjustable latter?

Last time I had heads off had slight wet spot around oring. Not enough to take a apart. If I do have a leak can I install adjustable without opening top or bottom? Just drop them in and set?
 

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Ghost Rider - IronButt
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Considering a similar 98" build

Geezer-Glide said:
Berserker, I have the 98" build and I'm using a stock CV 40 with a 200 main jet. It runs great! Steve and I have talked and my motor build can benefit by a 44 CV. If you're tight on $$$, stay with the 40 for now and buy what you can afford when you can afford it. You'll not hurt anything. I have GMR's head work on my stock heads, S&S 510g cams (close to the 37g) and V&H Propipe 2:1. My HP is a little down, thats why I'm going to a 44. The TQ right now is 99. I put in Comp Cams lifters (on Steve's recommendation) and kept my stock pushrods. (stronger and lighter) Keeps top end clatter to a minimum. Any other help I can give you PM me.
Geezer, you have listed some very good components for your build. I too would expect higher numbers. Some questions, if I may:

Did you go with dome or flat top pistons? What's your compression ratio?

Is your engine broken in? Has it been dyno tuned? Were the results you posted from a 4th or 5th gear dyno run?

Thanks...
 

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berserker said:
Main reason I was going to adjustable pushrods, was in case leak or something don't have to pull top end off. Though maybe should jsut save the money, and time setting them up.

Can I just cut the pushrods with bolt cutter and install adjustable latter?

Last time I had heads off had slight wet spot around oring. Not enough to take a apart. If I do have a leak can I install adjustable without opening top or bottom? Just drop them in and set?
If you get the quick install adjustables like the SE ones you can cut your lifters and drop them in. The regular adjustables don't shorten up enough to install that way.
 

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ovanay elinquentday
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berserker said:
Main reason I was going to adjustable pushrods, was in case leak or something don't have to pull top end off. Though maybe should jsut save the money, and time setting them up.

Can I just cut the pushrods with bolt cutter and install adjustable latter?

Last time I had heads off had slight wet spot around oring. Not enough to take a apart. If I do have a leak can I install adjustable without opening top or bottom? Just drop them in and set?
Yep, you can cut out the old pushrods at any time and drop in the adustables. Set each cyl at TDC when you work on it, and use bolt cutters so you don't get metal flakes in the lifter. If you buy the SE kit with the new tube extensions it will be easier, but I hear some guys have just trimmed their stock covers for the install. The kit was easier for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
pa-glazier said:
If you get the quick install adjustables like the SE ones you can cut your lifters and drop them in. The regular adjustables don't shorten up enough to install that way.
Thats what I meant. If I got a leak in the future, could I just cut the stock pushrods and put in adjustable without takign things apart. Just go to TDC and stick them in. That is what you mean right?
***was typing while FB was.

My bike is grocery getter and tourer. Don't want to be chacing weak links. But I also have to live this build for years. I am the type to keep a bike for a long time. Get it jsut the way I want, and maintain.
 

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0043--Licensed to Doof!
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rodriguc said:
Geezer, you have listed some very good components for your build. I too would expect higher numbers. Some questions, if I may:

Did you go with dome or flat top pistons? What's your compression ratio?

Is your engine broken in? Has it been dyno tuned? Were the results you posted from a 4th or 5th gear dyno run?

Thanks...
Flat top pistons from GMR's 98" kit.
9.7:1
Yes.
Yes
4th.
Thats why we're going with the 44 CV carb. I have also done some exhaust tuning on my V&H PP after talking with Steve. There is a big "seat of the pants" noticable difference by just removing the packing from the baffle. No, it did not make it that much louder. Of course it really "barks" at high revs, but putt putt around the neighborhood, it's nice and mellow.
I'll have more numbers after the `carb install, in about two weeks or so.
 

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IronButt
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Guys

the EFI is a 44 mm where Glides is a only a 40cv, with a 44 ( which it needs) he will allow the engine to breath and add more area under the curve as well. The 40 mm is choking the 98 inch look at it like a "air pump" a decent 95 needs a 44 to achive the most it can give, and you are not going to hurt your low end with a CV style carb. So now we are at 98 and the little ole 40 is just not up to the task.
 

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0043--Licensed to Doof!
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HDWRENCH said:
Guys

the EFI is a 44 mm where Glides is a only a 40cv, with a 44 ( which it needs) he will allow the engine to breath and add more area under the curve as well. The 40 mm is choking the 98 inch look at it like a "air pump" a decent 95 needs a 44 to achive the most it can give, and you are not going to hurt your low end with a CV style carb. So now we are at 98 and the little ole 40 is just not up to the task.
^ What he said!! :whistle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Another question. Since I got the primary off. I bought a HB-125. Is there any problems using this with a bigger engine? Looks pretty beefy.
 
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