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Can 98" be had by boring stock jugs? Is the extra 3 cubic inches worth the effort? Is it reliable compared to the 95" bore, or am I asking for trouble? Curious because alot of the shops offer 98" kits / build-ups, but seems like few are discussed.
DLR
 

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IronButt
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98 inch kits are with new cylinders that are a nikasil bore that allows you to go to a 3 15/16 bore, it cannot be done with a stock cylinder. 3 extra inches hmmmmm well with stage I heads and a mild compression of 9.7.1 and a ndrews 37 gear drive making over 100 lbs of tq is easy. Most builds peak in the 105 range and make 100 from 2200 to 4700 with out falling below the 100 ft mark.
I have done way to many 95 to even count and very few will do that and those that do are much more money and more radical in parts.

Money wise the 98 is much less money if you are looking for the big flat tq curve and are on a budget, than building a 95 to be able to run with a 98. Life time warranty on the cylinders, 20-30 less oil temps. All in all a very easy package for the avg guy to put together in his garage over a weekend.

The package that I use needs no roller rockers, compression release's , adjsustable pushrods, nothing fancy. End result a stump puller that is easy to ride and plenty of get a and go .
 

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HDWrench sells the 98'' kit....he would be the one to talk to about his kit.
No you can't bore you cylinders out to reach 98'', but with the kit Steve has you don't have to bore the cases either...its bolt on.
 

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DLRVelocity1 said:
Can 98" be had by boring stock jugs? Is the extra 3 cubic inches worth the effort? Is it reliable compared to the 95" bore, or am I asking for trouble? Curious because alot of the shops offer 98" kits / build-ups, but seems like few are discussed.
DLR
No, you cannot bore an 88" jug out to 98". The places that sell 98" jugs are selling 1 piece aluminum jugs with a hard nikasil lining. Since no iron lining is used you are able to get a few extra cubic inches. Your also getting better cooling properties from less friction due to the nik-a-sil lining and lack of an iron sleeve and more uniform expansion rates between the cylinder and the pistons. Forged pistons can be run with tighter piston to bore tolerances because of this.

Traditional HD cylinders are 2 piece jugs. An aluminum cylinder with an iron sleeve. 95" is pretty much the maximum safe bore you can do.
 

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IronButt
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I agree on the max of a 95 I swapped a 95 for a98 that had been over bored for some reason and the cylinders where way out of round due to warpage from what I could tell. I do not know for sure if it h ad been over heated but here in az with temp of 110+ over heating is a issue. The 98 are running 20-30 less in the oil temp department so that is a big plus.
 

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Average Dude
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HDWrench...

From what I have been reading, the 98" kit you sell is a bolt in conversion? No case boring necessary? You also said in a previous post you would choose the JE pistons...why??

Could you also respond to my question in this post please....
http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65817

I have an 04 RK Classic. Would this kit require the crank bearing modification, or do you feel comfortable with the stock bearing? I am not an aggressive rider and I am not looking to race. I just want the stump pulling power available for 2 up touring and passing.

Thanks for all you do for this board.
YB
 

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YankeeBob said:
HDWrench...

From what I have been reading, the 98" kit you sell is a bolt in conversion? No case boring necessary? You also said in a previous post you would choose the JE pistons...why??
98" kit is a bolt in, no boring necessary.
 

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Liberal Slayer
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Wrench, can you post a few pics of your bike with the 98" kit. Not that fashion matters, but I just want to see how the jugs look with the heads in the frams. Thanks Chris
 

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trackstar55 said:
Wrench, can you post a few pics of your bike with the 98" kit. Not that fashion matters, but I just want to see how the jugs look with the heads in the frams. Thanks Chris
I don't have 98" but I thought a look at 114" can help too?
 

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Highly Seasoned Rider!
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The Nikasil cylinders would be the way to go without doing any case boring., That bore figures out to almost 4". (3.949 if my calculator is correct). That way you'd have an almost square motor. Nice. :)

.
 

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nmandic said:
I don't have 98" but I thought a look at 114" can help too?
Hey how about using the "" feature so we can all see? [url]www.photobucket.com[/url] is free to host pictures. :thumbsup:

[QUOTE=newultraclassic]The Nikasil cylinders would be the way to go without doing any case boring., That bore figures out to almost 4". (3.949 if my calculator is correct). That way you'd have an almost square motor. Nice. :)

.[/QUOTE] 3.938" is the exact bore. Basically a square design though, and thats a good thing. Doing a true 4" piston would be a complete waste of time and money(boring the case).
 

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MechaGodzilla said:
Hey how about using the "" feature so we can all see? [url]www.photobucket.com[/url] is free to host pictures. :thumbsup:

I hope it works this way:

[url]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d57/nmandic/Bike%20Photos/IMG_1947.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d57/nmandic/Bike%20Photos/IMG_1948.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d57/nmandic/Bike%20Photos/IMG_1946.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d57/nmandic/Bike%20Photos/IMG_1945.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d57/nmandic/Bike%20Photos/IMG_1944.jpg[/url]
 

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nmandic said:
MechaGodzilla said:
Hey how about using the "" feature so we can all see? [url]www.photobucket.com[/url] is free to host pictures. :thumbsup:

I hope it works this way:

[url]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d57/nmandic/Bike%20Photos/IMG_1947.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d57/nmandic/Bike%20Photos/IMG_1948.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d57/nmandic/Bike%20Photos/IMG_1946.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d57/nmandic/Bike%20Photos/IMG_1945.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d57/nmandic/Bike%20Photos/IMG_1944.jpg[/url][/QUOTE]

Works great! Thanks! BTW if you place the link inside these "[IMG]" it will show up direct here on the website. But thats for links! Everybody should do it.
 

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Highly Seasoned Rider!
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MechaGodzilla said:
Hey how about using the "" feature so we can all see? [url]www.photobucket.com[/url] is free to host pictures. :thumbsup:

3.938" is the exact bore. Basically a square design though, and thats a good thing. Doing a true 4" piston would be a complete waste of time and money(boring the case).[/QUOTE]


I backed into the bore size by starting with 98.0 cubic inches. If you had an exact 98.0 cubic inches, the bore would be 3.949. With the cylinder size as you mention, which no doubt is correct, the exact engine size would be 97.4 cu inches. Give it a try. It's only .011 difference but I enjoy messing with folk when they get picky. :)

On a more serious note, I'd have to think about the expense for only another 2.4 cu inches over 95.

My 2 cents.
 

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newultraclassic said:
I backed into the bore size by starting with 98.0 cubic inches. If you had an exact 98.0 cubic inches, the bore would be 3.949. With the cylinder size as you mention, which no doubt is correct, the exact engine size would be 97.4 cu inches. Give it a try. It's only .011 difference but I enjoy messing with folk when they get picky. :)

On a more serious note, I'd have to think about the expense for only another 2.4 cu inches over 95.

My 2 cents.
I came to about 97.5 myself on cubic discplacement. If Im going to bore the case, its going to be for a 114" setup with a 4.25" bore. Got to at least make it worth it if the case is going to be modified.

If someone already has a 95" the extra couple cubic inches probably isnt worth it, but those with an 88" still it would be. One thing those 98" kits do offer is a superior cylinder. Stouter construction,less friction from the lining and you can run very tight piston to bore tolerances(.001)using forged pistons since expansion rate is uniform between the piston and cylinder.
 

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Mecha,

I came to the same conclusion and went from 88 to 98. Happy camper! Only now - wish I went to 114"!!:D
 

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FXDRYDR said:
Mecha,

I came to the same conclusion and went from 88 to 98. Happy camper! Only now - wish I went to 114"!!:D
Well, you know what they say....if some is good, more is better and too much is usually just about right. :)



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IronButt
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I am a huge fan of the 114. Several that I have built have made in the 130's The over square design is easy going keeps piston speed stock. If you are going to build a 107 go 114. One thing yes the 114 did make those numbers but that is NOT a street motor. That has a S&S D with 4 thunder jets 3 extrenal air bleeds for starters. and compression is 13.5.1 Nice numbers for a drag engine.

Still hard to beat the 98 inch set up though. I am going to call Dewey today to get started on a 98 with a woods tw8 and his pro heads.
 

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HDWRENCH said:
I am a huge fan of the 114. Several that I have built have made in the 130's The over square design is easy going keeps piston speed stock. If you are going to build a 107 go 114. One thing yes the 114 did make those numbers but that is NOT a street motor. That has a S&S D with 4 thunder jets 3 extrenal air bleeds for starters. Nice numbers for a drag engine.

Still hard to beat the 98 inch set up though. I am going to call Dewey today to get started on a 98 with a woods tw8 and his pro heads.
Steve,

Check your PM.
 
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