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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have not had the bike dynoed or tuned. I have 2000 fxst, cycle shack slip ons flattops, se adj pushrods, andrews 37bs, scottsman II heads. Does it make sense that a bagger with stage 1 mods, pipes with no baffles, thunderslide kit with two people on it should be able to keep up with me and my 95" Scottsman Build on the highway doing 90 - 105 MPH?

I have driven a 95" til this past riding season. I just didnt expect him to be able to keep up with me that easily riding two up with his mods. Does this make sense?
 

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I have a stage 1 bagger, 04 FLHTCI and it loves to cruise 80-100 mph all day. 3500 - 4000 rpm is the sweet spot for cruising on my bike. Keeps up with 95 builds no problem at that speed. The 95s get there faster though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thats what I was thinking. Also, with no baffles he probably has strong top end power. Why would a baggers sweet spot be up that high? Wouldnt a stage 1 on my bike have the same sweet spot since have same B engines? I know my build is meant for strong low TQ so I would get up there faster than his bike.
 

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Both bikes can cruise at that speed, but just as Peacekeeper said, you'll get there a lot faster. Try ripping the throttle from 75-80 and see what happens.
 

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Drag comes into play here whereas weight/power ratio determines acceleration.
I guess a bagger with full fairings has a better drag coefficient than a naked FXST which makes it easy for the bagger to keep up with you at speed. Wind force increases to the power of 3 with speed, so that why optimized aerodynamics get you to pretty high speed with moderate acceleration.
Very likely you'll pull away if you whack the throttle at 70 mph
There is always a solution to the problem, get yourself some more cubic inches........

PS: Through some mods etc. that give you some top end power, you wouldn't gain a lot while cruising at 70-80 mph with rpms well below 4000
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
That makes sense. I dont have a fairing, wind hits me pretty hard at 100MPH. probably holds me back a bit unless I put my chest on my tank. Didnt realize that the baggers had an A motor. I know this is the motor in the Dyna group. Is it a more responsive motor than the B Motor?

Another issue may be my lack of riding experience relative to racing. I have alot of experience cruising but this past summer was the first time I raced with someone. Next time I think I will try whacking the throttle a bit harder, or possibly downshifting into 4th to see if I get more pull out of my bike. I think the Mikuni 42 I am installing will help as well.

Vienna, How do you like those RB Racing pipes?
 

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cdirk said:
That makes sense. I dont have a fairing, wind hits me pretty hard at 100MPH. probably holds me back a bit unless I put my chest on my tank. Didnt realize that the baggers had an A motor. I know this is the motor in the Dyna group. Is it a more responsive motor than the B Motor?

Another issue may be my lack of riding experience relative to racing. I have alot of experience cruising but this past summer was the first time I raced with someone. Next time I think I will try whacking the throttle a bit harder, or possibly downshifting into 4th to see if I get more pull out of my bike. I think the Mikuni 42 I am installing will help as well.

Vienna, How do you like those RB Racing pipes?

Some folks say that the A motor has a few more horses at the crank 'cause there is less frictional loss caused by the balancer system of the B engine. There are several bearings, a chain, a hydraulic chain tensioner (yes there is one you only can get to by splitting the cases) and two weights thrashing around in the case. Not sure how much difference in output there is, but according to German TUEV certification for stockers it's around 4 hp at the crank.
The Rb Racing Black Hole is quiet, deep rumble on idle and nice deep bark when you get on it. At speed you don't hear them. , delivers good torque down low, but seems to leave a few horses on the table up high in my 95 build. Haven't done testing of the new build yet, weather sucks and the Dyno is a 100 miles away. TH or the ProPipe are much louder
 

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Torque in the upper rpm range may be different also. Are we comparing apples to apples? Bagger probably has the 3.37 gearing whereas your stock FXST gearing is 3.15. I just installed the 3.37 gearing, wow what a difference on a warmed over 88 ci. I'm now installing the 95" kit and andrews 37G's. Did you advance your 37's when you installed them? May also be a contributor as to why there's "Bagger" style cruise at 80-100 mph range, due to the lack of available additional power at the upper end. Just my .02, but hope it helps inspire some further understanding of what's going on and a possible solution considerations to better performance.

DLR
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am planning on getting a pro pipe too. I do love the cycle shacks though. I think I will keep em and switch back and forth. Two pipe and one pipe look all season long. Just took the bike out for another run. Its in the 50's today in NH. I really ripped it this time. There is alot of power. Especially 50 - 80 MPH. gets from 50 to 80 MPH really fast. In march I will add the Ignition Module and Mikuni 42 then tune it. May go to the 3.37 gear change, along with different belt. Local shop said going with a belt with less teeth can add some pop. Inexpensive mod. $100 labor included. May do this as well. Then its time to powdercoat legs, heat shields, horn cover, triple trees, and anything else I can find. :)
 

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Changing gear ratios will certainly help both acceleration and the "rush to the top", but you might want to do just the 3.37:1 change first and ride it for a while --- low gearing can be fun stop light to stop light, too low can be a PITA on longer runs. 3.37 - 3.42 are pretty decent ratios for all around riding, lower than that may not be your best bet. Depends on how/where you ride and what you want out of it. Another plus is the 3.37 setup does not affect the speedo readings and no speedo re-calibrator is needed, if you do the tranny sprocket/belt/rear sprocket then you need to re-cal the speedo. Also, you should be able to go at least one tooth, maybe two (depends on how much axle adjustment your particular frame has) on the tranny sprocket without having to change the belt. A one tooth change on the tranny sprocket will move the axle about 0.140" --- food for thought.
 

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cdirk said:
May go to the 3.37 gear change, along with different belt. Local shop said going with a belt with less teeth can add some pop. Inexpensive mod. $100 labor included. :)
A new belt including labor for 100????
 

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Never the less... I'm interested in uderstanding how the shorter, (belt with less teeth), can improve performance... I'm all ears...:huh:

DLR
 

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I just a$$umed he was talking about changing the tranny sprocket (smaller) and it was a$$umed he needed a shorter belt to do that. There's usually enough axle adjustment to accomodate 1-2 teeth on the tranny sprocket up or down and you don't need a new belt. I missed the $100 part --- I'd like to know where you can get a belt changed with a new sprocket (which is what you need if you are changing ratios) for $100 myself!
 

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I think what they may be talking about would be to drop the front 1 tooth and the rear 4 teeth, or 2 & 8 (not sure if you can get the sprokets though).

You also need to think about the smaller on the front bends the belt tighter. At some point this would cause premature failure.

Chris
 

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cdirk said:
I have not had the bike dynoed or tuned. I have 2000 fxst, cycle shack slip ons flattops, se adj pushrods, andrews 37bs, scottsman II heads. Does it make sense that a bagger with stage 1 mods, pipes with no baffles, thunderslide kit with two people on it should be able to keep up with me and my 95" Scottsman Build on the highway doing 90 - 105 MPH?

I have driven a 95" til this past riding season. I just didnt expect him to be able to keep up with me that easily riding two up with his mods. Does this make sense?
With the mods you have and with no dyno tune you have left a bunch on the table.
 

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Don't forget the bagger is carrying his OL, so he will have to stop twice as much, and probably runs WOT to get where he's going. ;) Oh my, a station wagon just passed me...I think the emblem said "Hemi". I'm going to put nitrous on my bike to keep up. :duh?:

Ride safe & ride again,
Thorns
 

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vtwin_nut said:
I just a$$umed he was talking about changing the tranny sprocket (smaller) and it was a$$umed he needed a shorter belt to do that. There's usually enough axle adjustment to accomodate 1-2 teeth on the tranny sprocket up or down and you don't need a new belt. I missed the $100 part --- I'd like to know where you can get a belt changed with a new sprocket (which is what you need if you are changing ratios) for $100 myself!
It's a problem with the decimal. Around here, belt, sprocket and labor gets you to about $1000
 
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