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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm dropping my bike off at a highly recommended shop on Saturday to have a
95" upgrade with Andrews 37G cams,Wiesco pistons, a SE 44mm carb with a 44mm manifold and various other things. I was just wondering how much more I would get out of this if I went to 98ci. The shop I'm going to does all his own machining and also does it for allot of other shops in the area. I haven't asked him his opinion yet but would 3ci make much of a difference?
 

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Doing time, behind bars!
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Better stick with plan 'A'

reg26 said:
I'm dropping my bike off at a highly recommended shop on Saturday to have a
95" upgrade with Andrews 37G cams,Wiesco pistons, a SE 44mm carb with a 44mm manifold and various other things. I was just wondering how much more I would get out of this if I went to 98ci. The shop I'm going to does all his own machining and also does it for allot of other shops in the area. I haven't asked him his opinion yet but would 3ci make much of a difference?
This reads to me like the 98" is an after thought. I would work this out with your builder; if you already have pistons, not much choice but to go with 95". The stock cylinders cannot be bored to 98" and you are looking at at $1,000 for replacements including new pistons & rings.
Just curious, what are you doing for the most important part of the build - the HEADS?
Regards, John
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys I didn't know that I would have to buy new cylinders. He's gona port the heads. like I said i didn't ask him about the 98" jugs , just thought about it after seeing some threads. He does all his own head work and also for allot of other shops in the area. I got to thinking about the 98" cause a good friend of mine is having his bike done with pretty much the same stuff as mine( his bike is FI and mine is carbed) but by a different shop and I want to make sure I beet his butt when we are both done.
 

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Give Steve (HDWRENCH) a call at GMR performance , he has done several 98" builds. I got my cams from him and we had discussed that . You can end up with more power , with lower compression and yes 3" does make a difference . http://gmrperformance.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks nidan, I have been to his site numerous times and know he has an excellent reputation but The shop I am going to also has a good rep and he's only 10mi from my house and to me I would rather have the guy who sells me the parts be the one who installs them and tunes the bike also. Now that you guys have told me that I would have to buy new jugs I'm gona stick with 95ci.
Thanks much!
 

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Do yourself a favor and skip the 44 carb. I tried it and didnt' gain a thing. The 40 gives better cylinder filling and better milage. My bike ran better with more torque, hp and economy with the 40. I have 95" and S&S cams, and SE heads too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've had a couple of other people tell me that also but the two shops I went to and also a personel friend who was the service manager a a local HD dealership told ME to go with the 44mm so I'm going to give it a try. When its dynoed I'll post it but I have to break it in first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just got back from driving my buddy to pick up his bike and the dyno he was given reported 101 HP and 105 TQ. That's more than he or I was expecting!. I just rode it though and although I've never ridden a HD with 105 TQ for some reason I wasn't that impressed. I mean yea it was faster than stock and pulled real nice , I just thought there would have been more. The most powerful HD I had ridden to date was my 04 Heritage that had a Stage II kit with 204 cams and his really didn't feel that much quicker. Is it possible to fudge a dyno? At first when I saw his dyno sheet I was thinking of just using the shop he's going to, it's even a little closer to my house. But after riding it I think I might still use the shop I had selected... Kinda confused now
WTF.
 

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The_Snowman said:
This reads to me like the 98" is an after thought. I would work this out with your builder; if you already have pistons, not much choice but to go with 95". The stock cylinders cannot be bored to 98" and you are looking at at $1,000 for replacements including new pistons & rings.
Just curious, what are you doing for the most important part of the build - the HEADS?
Regards, John

That's off a bit John, I just bought SE jugs and flat top pistons for $380 delivered from Chicago HD to CA. But if I had known a bit more about the Rev Performance 98" kit before I ordered I would have gone that route.

Joe
 

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Even on the same machine, correction factor, smoothing and gear have a lot to do with the results.

see http://www.bishopsperformance.com/dynoinfo.htm

You can see, a single bike can have peak horsepower from 85.29 to 92.75,
and peak torque from 96.63 to 105.09. That's a variance of nearly 10% !

Then you also have brand and model of dyno.
 

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You can bore the stock cylinders out to 98" just as easily as you can to 95"; and the Andrews 37G cam works very well with that set-up. The cost difference should be minimal. If that's what you want, do it.

Ragnar
 

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Ragnar said:
You can bore the stock cylinders out to 98" just as easily as you can to 95"; and the Andrews 37G cam works very well with that set-up. The cost difference should be minimal. If that's what you want, do it.

Ragnar
Could you explain this please? It goes against anything and everything I have ever been told about stock cylinders.
 

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There is a builder/engineer locally (central Ohio) who routinely does this build. Depending on what you want, he'll do 95, 96, or 98 inches. I have ridden the carbed 98 with the 37G cam, and it performs very well. Just to place this in context, this guy has at least one degree in engineering; he's in his mid-sixties, and has been building HD engines all of his adult life. I say this just so you won't think he is some new guy with a wild idea.

Ragnar
 

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Ragnar said:
There is a builder/engineer locally (central Ohio) who routinely does this build. Depending on what you want, he'll do 95, 96, or 98 inches. I have ridden the carbed 98 with the 37G cam, and it performs very well. Just to place this in context, this guy has at least one degree in engineering; he's in his mid-sixties, and has been building HD engines all of his adult life. I say this just so you won't think he is some new guy with a wild idea.

Ragnar
I guess my question is how does he do this and keep a safe thickness in the cylinder wall? Does he bore and use an insert? I just was under the impression that to achieve that bore, with stock cylinders was not able to be done and maintain sufficient cylinder thickness.

Not doubting it can be done, just wonder how?
 

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I can't tell you exactly how he does it as my role has always been at the assembly end after picking up the parts. I can tell you that it's never even come up in conversation as being different from any other bore. They never run hotter than any other engine; in fact, they often run cooler as the fit is that good. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Ragnar
 
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