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I'm going to step in here and give you some free advice. Take it or leave it.

Every seal you drive in with some home made tool, take it out and put a new one in using something close to the correct tool.

First the input seal. If you slid that seal into place over the shaft, its could be junk. The seal need to be prevented from dragging across the shaft. Then it needs to be set in at a specific depth, perpendicular to the shaft. If it wobbles, it wears out prematurely.

This is what you use to do it correctly.



The sleeve protects the seal and aligns the installer to the shaft.

And the big seal on the main drive gear is even more problematic. They have to be recessed correctly and must be absolutely perpendicular to the drive gear. They also should not be hammered on. Or wedged/walked into place.

This is the tool for that.



Its a very slight amount of recess



Same goes for that inner bearing race. You need to push it into place. Do not hammer on it. And the threads on the main shaft are not durable enough to use to do the pushing.

The same tool that pushed the seal into place will push the race on



Now about that shifting. Those gear sets are known for binding forks. Bolt the drum on and see which fork is bound up. You might get lucky and be able to just press the drive pin further down into the fork.
 

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Super Moderator
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21,076 Posts
I'm going to step in here and give you some free advice. Take it or leave it.

Every seal you drive in with some home made tool, take it out and put a new one in using something close to the correct tool.

First the input seal. If you slid that seal into place over the shaft, its could be junk. The seal need to be prevented from dragging across the shaft. Then it needs to be set in at a specific depth, perpendicular to the shaft. If it wobbles, it wears out prematurely.

This is what you use to do it correctly.



The sleeve protects the seal and aligns the installer to the shaft.

And the big seal on the main drive gear is even more problematic. They have to be recessed correctly and must be absolutely perpendicular to the drive gear. They also should not be hammered on. Or wedged/walked into place.

This is the tool for that.



Its a very slight amount of recess



Same goes for that inner bearing race. You need to push it into place. Do not hammer on it. And the threads on the main shaft are not durable enough to use to do the pushing.

The same tool that pushed the seal into place will push the race on



Now about that shifting. Those gear sets are known for binding forks. Bolt the drum on and see which fork is bound up. You might get lucky and be able to just press the drive pin further down into the fork.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Thanks Therm. Just to clarify I didn’t hammer the seal in. I hammered that needle bearing into the main drive gear farther to match the depth of the oil seal so it sits slightly inside or even flush with the main drive.

That tool to protect that small seal is pretty trick. I’ve had that seal leak before because I rolled that soft lip sliding it over the shaft
 

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Sorry I Haven't been around much. How did you make out?
 

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honestly,,, the ultima gearset seem about on ar in strength,,, they are nowhere near a baker,, but are a literal carbon copy of one... a Baker sets you back alot more,,, I won't tell you what my Baker set cost,, it was still in the 3 figures range... I was a dealer,,, I had a few changes made to mine,,, and like a couple of the guys said about a spacer,, it should be rather easy,, with the mods already mentioned

marty,, all the 6 speeds I do are overdrive,,, lol. sorry I had to.. most have a close ratio or lower numerically gears as well,,, not like the harley boxes....

I believe harley hoodwinked everyone with their 6 speed,,, Marty, like you said an extra shift to arrive at the same ratio as the 5 speed boxes.... (the first time I said that here,, it was like I was dr frankenstein,, and the villagers were going to burn me,, lol) I will admit they feel torque er, and feel quicker,,, but when the engines hit around 4500 revs they are flat as a board... I've ridden quite a few of the big inch harley 6 speeds,,, totally not impressive... themore harleys change,, the more things stay the same
..,,, from 68 hp in the 1970's from 74 " engines. to 114" new bikes with around 76 hp,,, does .the math seem off to you all?
 

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I have a 1990fxr and use the ultima6. Runs and rides great never an issue for 10kmiles. Also it is teamed with a 107 s&s

Sent from my LGL63BL using Tapatalk
I too have the mighty FXRS of 1990 vintage. Since I'm also going with the Ultima 6 speed 98-902. Any pearls of wisdom on the install would be great.
 
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