[Jake707SBFMC]

Ok I can get the tranny to still spin freely just not shift.

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

I think I found the problem. Just had to walk away for a few hours and I’m back at it now. It looks like the shifter pawl is hitting the drum assembly bracket on the left side.

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

Swapped the left side end bracket for the drum assembly and there’s no rubbing issue anymore. I can cycle between first and neutral but that’s it. It won’t up shift past

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

Couple pics

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

I hear ya but something aint right, would inspect is my point.

Yea that’s the diff between pros and shade tree mechanics like me. The pros know what doesn’t look right while it could be starring me in the face haha

 

[ecir45]

it is possible the drum may be hitting housing. Some tranny housing need to be clearance with a new drum involved check the sides and front corners

 

[ecir45]

does the four corners of the supports rest in place without the bolts in place?

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

I thought I made progress but I found if I tighten down the four bolts holding the drum assembly it seems like it binds something and won’t shift. But if I keep them finer right I’m able to shift through all the gears. I can’t see and clearance issues in there but it’s acting like there should be shims or washers between the top of the case and the drum assembly?

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

Yup the four corners rest in place. It’s only when I tighten them down I have rotating issues. But hand snug it shifts fine.

 

[tall terry]

welcome to the wonderful world if ultima.... check that the drum isnt binding on any of the shift forks... also check the straightness and concriticy of the 6th gear fork shaft..

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

Haha. I thought of you Terry last night and your ideal upcoming “I told you so” opportunity. It was in a slurry of F bombs and a bunch of “ I bet F’n Baker wouldn’t have this problem” haha.

I’ll see what I can find. Would it make sense to need a shim or something under the mounts or should I not even be considering that.

 

[ArcAngel]

I've been on this site for a while and I gotta say Tall Terry thank you. You obviously aren't on here for any other purpose than to help all us guys who don't have your experience. You yourself never ask questions of anyone you're just here to help. You and a few others on here are a huge asset to have access to. Thanks to all you guys who take valuable time for us all. Never seen you as the I told you so type either. Jake you are in good hands I'm sure you're gonna get thru this.

 

[tall terry]

arcangei thank you,,, I'm not that type,, 8f we were in the same shop,,, and one 9f the mechanics were having the issue mentioned here,,, I would just smile and walk away... I am here to help, though,,, I rarely have a question about harleys or anything on wheels really,,, my background includes enough certificate to paper a wall,,, I see that as fake BS thar is unfortunately required to continue making a living in this profession..

jake,, I wouldn't do that to you,,, but I'm glad you thought of me,,, perhaps,, lower in this post you may find a solution to the issue... if that fails,,, Baker 6 speed OD shift components fit right in,,, but cost more than the gearset did from ultima...

then I would tell him,,, the shift drum has variable thickness shims that can possibly solve this problem,,, available through harley and the aftermarket... there is a measurement spec in any of the 5 speed manuals you can lay hand on,,, that tells the measuring spec and the procedure...

I do remember that the measurement is taken off the door side of the case ,, sans the door and gasket,, to the center of the middle shift drum groove in 3rd gear... I just dont recall the dimension.. 2.013" from the edge of the case to the center of the .idle groove in the drum in 3rd gear iirc,,,

this can be accomplished without removing the door,,, with a couple of the correct mics,, and some calculations...

this may fix the shift drum bind,,,, I guarantee it is not the harley case causing this issue..
I've had mixed success with ultima transmissions with the same or similar problems....

my big gripes with ultima is their inferior materials (yeah they use 8620,, with one major difference,, they remelt scrap and cast most of the gears and shafts,, rather than machine from bar and flat stock,, like Baker does).and loose tolerances ,, leading to shifting issues...

therm may have some insight here as well...

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

Ok. Well now I’m really lost. Got back to the house today, took the drum off, jiggled the forks not really changing sh*t, put it back together and now it seems to shift. Here’s a couple videos. But it’s tightened down and shifts through which I couldn’t get it to do before. Doesn’t really build confidence when you can’t “ find” the smoking gun know what I mean.

https://youtu.be/wRehaYEPenw


https://youtu.be/BkE1vR-sups

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

arcangei thank you,,, I'm not that type,, 8f we were in the same shop,,, and one 9f the mechanics were having the issue mentioned here,,, I would just smile and walk away... I am here to help, though,,, I rarely have a question about harleys or anything on wheels really,,, my background includes enough certificate to paper a wall,,, I see that as fake BS thar is unfortunately required to continue making a living in this profession..

jake,, I wouldn't do that to you,,, but I'm glad you thought of me,,, perhaps,, lower in this post you may find a solution to the issue... if that fails,,, Baker 6 speed OD shift components fit right in,,, but cost more than the gearset did from ultima...

then I would tell him,,, the shift drum has variable thickness shims that can possibly solve this problem,,, available through harley and the aftermarket... there is a measurement spec in any of the 5 speed manuals you can lay hand on,,, that tells the measuring spec and the procedure...

I do remember that the measurement is taken off the door side of the case ,, sans the door and gasket,, to the center of the middle shift drum groove in 3rd gear... I just dont recall the dimension.. 2.013" from the edge of the case to the center of the .idle groove in the drum in 3rd gear iirc,,,

this can be accomplished without removing the door,,, with a couple of the correct mics,, and some calculations...

this may fix the shift drum bind,,,, I guarantee it is not the harley case causing this issue..
I've had mixed success with ultima transmissions with the same or similar problems....

my big gripes with ultima is their inferior materials (yeah they use 8620,, with one major difference,, they remelt scrap and cast most of the gears and shafts,, rather than machine from bar and flat stock,, like Baker does).and loose tolerances ,, leading to shifting issues...

therm may have some insight here as well...

I hear ya Arc and agree 100. There’s a few guys on here that have forgotten more than I know and they’re life savers

Terry much appreciated as always. I just sent an updated and videos of current action. I was then “reminded” I have to go to a GD kids b day party so I’m out yet again.

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

Got the right side bolted all up. Started working on the left side. Smooth sailing with the pulley and then slide the oil seal over the main shaft and it won’t go into the drive gear all the way. I push it in tight and proceed to push the race on. But that seal just doesn’t look right to me.

So I look at my old 5 speed gear set I pulled out and that oil seal sits all the way in to the drive gear lip. I wiggle that seal on the 6 speed and it pulls right out. This **** will leak if I leave it. So off with the race to take a closer look.

I measure the depth of the lip and see that this ultima unit is much shallower than the stock one I have. Look inside and see hell all it is is a needle bearing pressed inside setting that depth. No lip or retaining rings of any kind. The Chinese kid st the ultima factory must have been in a rush when he pressed mine into the drive gear.

So not what. No way in hell am I taking everything back off to pull the drive gear back out. I fine a socket that’s the perfect fit just inside the lip of the drive gear. Then I cut off the back half and slide it over the main shaft. Grab the tube part of the race installer tool, mark a starting line with this pretty turquoise sharpie I have for some reason and commence to whacking! It was nerve racking at first since I had no idea if I was going to FUBAR the tranny but at this point I gave it a shot.

It seems to have work. Lil ******* ingenuity saves the day...... hopefully. Haha

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

Got her all back together and took a 10 mile shake down ride. Everything worked great and no funny noises...... other than me firing the bike up at 2:30 AM. Will see if there’s any leaks tomorrow and I’ll try to get a tank of gas through it but I can already tell it’s bettwr than the old 5 speed. Cruising right along at 90-100 not even breaking 4k rpm.

 

[Alan S]

Congrats. Try to remember to give a review after you have a few miles on it.

Sent from my 2 Tin Cans With A String using Tapatalk

 

[tall terry]

I hope it is now one of the troublefree ultima I speak of,,,,,
congrats jake..

 

[Jake707SBFMC]

I sure F’n hope so. Maybe she was just front loading all of the troubles to get them out the way.

I’ll keep you update on how she performs. I think I read somewhere to be easy on it for 500 miles or so as break in. I do notice already how crips the shifts feel compared to the old 5 speed and since I had the early style top cover already there’s no 4th gear neutral light issues like a lot of people report.