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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just did the 30tooth front drive sprocket swap out and a new tourque drive Rekluse clutch up grade and the combination of the two is impressive. All I can say Harley cost lots of money to make power. And for less than $700 I just made my bike as fast or faster than many who have put thousands into there bikes. The dyno numbers will prove it as soon as I get them I’ll post. But the tourque increase is undeniable. And now instead of having 5 gears that pull hard you can 6th gear to that. I’ll run up against anyone now I may not beat 120hp bike but to me for what they spent compared to me I already won that race.
 

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Your engine did not gain any HP or torque it just feels like it did,,, you gave it a mechanical advantage by allowing the engine to attain higher rpm in a shorter time period..which makes the bike quicker..

Have you noticed that you now must shift quicker at a lower road speed at higher engine rpm? And each gear peaks at a lower speed? You will, in percentages top speed, for rpm,,,, you will lose top road speeds, but engine speeds will increase...

Just a quick example let's say you bike used to top out at 100mph,, so lets say the. Umber of teeth you dropped is 20% of what was the old sprockets tooth count,,, the engine will now rev 20% higher, and go 20% slower in top speeds,,, you will get there much quicker... enjoy it,, it will be much easier to break now,,,,, btw your power and torque did not increase..
 

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Don't bother with the dyno...engine power is unchanged, all you did is change the gearing. No doubt it will be quicker off the line with the lower gearing but you will run out of legs on the high end. Sounds like the new gearing works for you - that's all that matters!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your engine did not gain any HP or torque it just feels like it did,,, you gave it a mechanical advantage by allowing the engine to attain higher rpm in a shorter time period..which makes the bike quicker..

Have you noticed that you now must shift quicker at a lower road speed at higher engine rpm? And each gear peaks at a lower speed? You will, in percentages top speed, for rpm,,,, you will lose top road speeds, but engine speeds will increase...

Just a quick example let's say you bike used to top out at 100mph,, so lets say the. Umber of teeth you dropped is 20% of what was the old sprockets tooth count,,, the engine will now rev 20% higher, and go 20% slower in top speeds,,, you will get there much quicker... enjoy it,, it will be much easier to break now,,,,, btw your power and torque did not increase..
Never said it made my hP go up but it does increase tourque and well it hits 120 like nothing. There’s no down side to it period
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don't bother with the dyno...engine power is unchanged, all you did is change the gearing. No doubt it will be quicker off the line with the lower gearing but you will run out of legs on the high end. Sounds like the new gearing works for you - that's all that matters!
Why wouldn’t I dyno it? It’s been a few years with some minor changes along the way amd my guy is one of the best in the biz. I’ll Gaurentee the torque curve is improved as well with the change of gearing he can better apply power in the right places. It will be a giant help. Amd get even faster it’s a SG so no need to do 120 but getting there faster is always fun
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Your engine did not gain any HP or torque it just feels like it did,,, you gave it a mechanical advantage by allowing the engine to attain higher rpm in a shorter time period..which makes the bike quicker..

Have you noticed that you now must shift quicker at a lower road speed at higher engine rpm? And each gear peaks at a lower speed? You will, in percentages top speed, for rpm,,,, you will lose top road speeds, but engine speeds will increase...

Just a quick example let's say you bike used to top out at 100mph,, so lets say the. Umber of teeth you dropped is 20% of what was the old sprockets tooth count,,, the engine will now rev 20% higher, and go 20% slower in top speeds,,, you will get there much quicker... enjoy it,, it will be much easier to break now,,,,, btw your power and torque did not increase.
As you pointed out rpms have increased in a way that puts the engine at the best place it could be right at the beginning of its power curve no lag no under power pull in the clutch and tranny amd a loss of about 5 lb of rotating mass on the crank I mean if you think that’s bad in anyway well your wrong the compensator is huge amount parasitic loss and now the tranny wont lag 6 th gear is still only 3400rpm at 80 which gives me 3000rpm to go. From stock amd is only 400 rpm more. It puts it in the sweet spot. Oh not mention I’ve already done cams exhaust and intake so put it all together it’s a machine now that rips. It’s like putting gears in your rear end of a car if you ever have it can make up half a second or more in 1000’ it’s win win but hey haters hate no matter what so keep hating I’ll keep enjoying
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You just had to be a party pooper. :)

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Your engine did not gain any HP or torque it just feels like it did,,, you gave it a mechanical advantage by allowing the engine to attain higher rpm in a shorter time period..which makes the bike quicker..

Have you noticed that you now must shift quicker at a lower road speed at higher engine rpm? And each gear peaks at a lower speed? You will, in percentages top speed, for rpm,,,, you will lose top road speeds, but engine speeds will increase...

Just a quick example let's say you bike used to top out at 100mph,, so lets say the. Umber of teeth you dropped is 20% of what was the old sprockets tooth count,,, the engine will now rev 20% higher, and go 20% slower in top speeds,,, you will get there much quicker... enjoy it,, it will be much easier to break now,,,,, btw your power and torque did not increase..
Just a quick example of a blow heart who thinks he’s a know it all. And obviously your not. But if you think gearing a bike down the gear ratio
Your engine did not gain any HP or torque it just feels like it did,,, you gave it a mechanical advantage by allowing the engine to attain higher rpm in a shorter time period..which makes the bike quicker..

Have you noticed that you now must shift quicker at a lower road speed at higher engine rpm? And each gear peaks at a lower speed? You will, in percentages top speed, for rpm,,,, you will lose top road speeds, but engine speeds will increase...

Just a quick example let's say you bike used to top out at 100mph,, so lets say the. Umber of teeth you dropped is 20% of what was the old sprockets tooth count,,, the engine will now rev 20% higher, and go 20% slower in top speeds,,, you will get there much quicker... enjoy it,, it will be much easier to break now,,,,, btw your power and torque did not increase..
you obviously have no idea what your talking about you just like to hear yourself talk and think you do. 20% where do you come up with that. Check your math. So if gearing down allows your engine to turn easier putting less stress on the drive train less persisting loss and less rotating mass that’s a bad thing? And why is it you think I’ll go 20% slower. There’s reasons for doing such mods just like if you chose a tourque cam or went with a 22” front wheel or put a turbo on your bike. And if you believe Harleys engineering in a stock bike is based on best performance they can give and anything other than that is a problem well you should go buy an Indian. You have a few valid points however to say it’s a bad move and will only have problems is so ridiculous. You need to move out of your mommas basement and see what really goes on in the big world. But thanks for you opinion
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Don't bother with the dyno...engine power is unchanged, all you did is change the gearing. No doubt it will be quicker off the line with the lower gearing but you will run out of legs on the high end. Sounds like the new gearing works for you - that's all that matters!
Actually I’ve noticed more pull from mid range to redline then I do off the line the relkluse puts it down and did before no slip all the power I have gets put to the pavement and continues to pull just as hard there as it does up to 6200! Until my rev limiter kicks in. No need to pull the lever with the rekluse kick in the next gear and the Rpms don’t drop but maybe 100-200 max. All I can say for the guys here who think it’s bad if you’ve never done it how the hell fo you know and if you have explain how it went bad why it went bad upon inspection how you determined it to be the delete of the compensator and why going back to stock is a vast improvement
I’ll be waiting
 

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If you lower the FDR, you for sure will pick up at the bottom end!
And all that is fine if you have enough leftover RPM to cruise at the speed you want at the top.
Lots of engines are geared too high, there is a sweet point for speed and gearing at a picked for road speed.
AT 85 to 90 my little Evo is twirling pretty good.
Going cross Nebraska, S. Dakota it begged for a taller gear.
This year i gave it its wish.
If it turns out to be a little stiff,i now have room to adjust the FDR.
But it would also give me a lower overall gear ratio.
Baker says it will be about a 500 RPM drop which should be just about right.
They have done their homework too.
As far as more power on the dyno, it can't really be true or the dyno shoot out people
would be packing in all kinds of low gearing..
 

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Just a quick example of a blow heart who thinks he’s a know it all. And obviously your not. But if you think gearing a bike down the gear ratio

you obviously have no idea what your talking about you just like to hear yourself talk and think you do. 20% where do you come up with that. Check your math. So if gearing down allows your engine to turn easier putting less stress on the drive train less persisting loss and less rotating mass that’s a bad thing? And why is it you think I’ll go 20% slower. There’s reasons for doing such mods just like if you chose a tourque cam or went with a 22” front wheel or put a turbo on your bike. And if you believe Harleys engineering in a stock bike is based on best performance they can give and anything other than that is a problem well you should go buy an Indian. You have a few valid points however to say it’s a bad move and will only have problems is so ridiculous. You need to move out of your mommas basement and see what really goes on in the big world. But thanks for you opinion
Sounds like you could use one of these.



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Most of us here are just trying to help.
The V twin engine is a very simple one, and with enough massaging over the years many tricks have been learned by many
people to get the most out of it.
Re gearing works for most any application to move the torq and RPM up and or dwn the scale.
It alone will not change the out put at the crank.
I hope this helps you to think of it that way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Actually I’ve noticed more pull from mid range to redline then I do off the line the relkluse puts it down and did before no slip all the power I have gets put to the pavement and continues to pull just as hard there as it does up to 6200! Until my rev limiter kicks in. No need to pull the lever with the rekluse kick in the next gear and the Rpms don’t drop but maybe 100-200 max. All I can say for the guys here who think it’s bad if you’ve never done it how the hell fo you know and if you have explain how it went bad why it went bad upon inspection how you determined it to be the delete of the compensator and why going back to stock is a vast improvement
I’ll be waiting
Most of us here are just trying to help.
The V twin engine is a very simple one, and with enough massaging over the years many tricks have been learned by many
people to get the most out of it.
Re gearing works for most any application to move the torq and RPM up and or dwn the scale.
It alone will not change the out put at the crank.
I hope this helps you to think of it that way?
I get that but less rotating mass and parasitic loss does gain you speed. The proof is in the way it performs and all I can tell you unless you’ve done it amd have the same set up you really don’t know amd if I drive the tire faster quicker and put more power to the ground so to a mechanical advantage then tell me how that won’t increase power, tourque , speed to a certain point. I do t know many Harley riders who even hold the throttle open past 100. Before they get scared. Well I’m still in 5th at 100 and we’ll 120 comes quick amd 6th has become like the other 5 an actual power great not hair over drive but if 3400 rpm at 90’is to high for some then they’re just used to a lagging overdrive gear. Hell I run most gears at 4000 right on the power band why wouldn’t you that’s how it’s suppose to be. The motor is working at its best in the power not lagging like most riders ride. I know it’s foreign for the majority who don’t really know but this is where you should be running all the time even if your doing 30, 80 or 120 I’m the power band period
 

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No need to pull the lever with the rekluse kick in the next gear and the Rpms don’t drop but maybe 100-200 max.
You better reread your instructions. They say to use the clutch to shift gears. It probably has something to do with tearing up your clutch if you don't.

I think they say you don't need to use the clutch for stopping and starting. That's just so those people that are used to riding a mini bike with a centrifugal clutch will feel more comfortable riding a big boys motorcycle
.... not mention I’ve already done cams exhaust and intake ....
So, when you add the cost of all these things, not to mention the dyno time for a tune, to the $700 you spent on a replacement clutch pack (yuk yuk), where does that put you? In that same group as the guys that put thousands into their bike.
.
....All I can say Harley cost lots of money to make power....
You ain't seen nothing yet. They cost even more money to repair after you run them hard and break things.
 

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Being an aircraft guy I am pretty conscious about weight, drag, parasitic losses.
I have done a lot to my bike to make it lighter and more efficient.
To repeat a wise man he said "take care of the ounces and the pounds take care of themselves."
The last little thing I just did, - was an aluminum transmission pulley.
Sure I know it will not last.
But neither will my aluminum clutch basket.
But I am lighter and the rotating masses are again, less!
But as I say over and over "the devil is in the details."
To the point, I have not ever heard of anyone referring to changing gears refer to it as a" reduction in parasitic drag."
it might be a mechanical advantage but a reduction in weight.? IDK about that.
Perhaps from helical to straight cut? that would be a great advantage. (if you had helical)
Smarter people smarter than me say "one gram difference on a crank throw or on big end equal to 30 lbs @ 6K ," !!
But that is a whole different equation that uses larger words than I am used to. ( LOL)
But. what do I know, I am always open to learning.
Zero to sixty under 4 sec should be the standard.
Not mail order acceleration.
 

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... it’s a SG ...
And another thing, Only someone that didn't know would consider a SuperGlide to be a touring bike. Posting here in the Harley-Davidson Touring forum shows a lack of attention to detail that goes with a lack of experience.

Did you think no one would pay any attention to you if you posted in the Dyna (if that 13 in your screen name means the year of your bike) or FXR forum?

Better be careful. I hear a lot of hate in just about all of your comments.
 

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I'll stick with info Tall Terry hands out. He gave me some great advice a couple years ago about my clutch slipping in 5th gear. Couldn't be happier now.
 
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