[FL8X]

I have a question about this mod. I have read a few posts about this and Im think of doing it, but, do you change the gear on the trans, where the final drive belt goes to the rear sprocket, or the the gears in the primary cover from engine to trans? If its the trans sprocket, does any one know if a sprocket is out yet for the 06 models? I have the Night Train with the 200 tire and 20mm drive belt. Also if I do change the rear sprocket to a 29 tooth, do I need a shorter belt or just adjust the rear wheel? :thanks:

Tim

Haze of Grey and Under Way{salute(

 

[csoday]

To get 3.37-1 you need :
24T Compensating Sprocket 40269-85A
37T Clutch Hub 37846-99A

 

[FL8X]

To get 3.37-1 you need :
24T Compensating Sprocket 40269-85A
37T Clutch Hub 37846-99A

Is this quicker and easier than the rear sprocket change? I see that its not cheaper. Zanotti's 40269-85A - $34.00 and 37846-99A - $271.00.

Thanks for the info

Tim

Haze of Grey and Under Way{salute(

 

[deuce163]

search

Do a search and you will find some good reading on this subject.

According to posts from HD wrench (I believe it was) you can go to a 30 tooth pully sprocket only and get 3:36-1. Longer adjuster bolts might be needed if you have a softail, but you will be able to get just enough adjustment with stock belt.

 

[Lunker]

Here's the latest thread on the gear change. It was recommended that you change both gears so that you won't need to change the chain length or adjust the tensioner to pick up extra slack.

http://65.38.172.84/forums/showthread.php?t=66256

 

[FL8X]

Ive read through some of the post and trying to search the web right now on this. I think I might be a little ahead of the after market for some of the mods I would like to do. The closest thing that I can find right now is on the Andrews site. They are talking about maybe having to use a belt with fewer teeth ( trans sprocket change ) to get the adjustablity with a 29 tooth sprocket and that would get me to a 3.48-1 or 3.36-1 with the 30tooth sprocket. The 3.48-1 sounds like a lot of fun in town and short blasts from bar to bar :wootdnc: but not to sure about the open road riding though:hmmm: . Any thoughts on the 3.48-1?

Thanks

Tim

 

[csoday]

If you change the ratio on the belt drive you will affect your speedo reading so factor in a re-cal if you want it to read right.

 

[barrybasinger]

Ive read through some of the post and trying to search the web right now on this. I think I might be a little ahead of the after market for some of the mods I would like to do. The closest thing that I can find right now is on the Andrews site. They are talking about maybe having to use a belt with fewer teeth ( trans sprocket change ) to get the adjustablity with a 29 tooth sprocket and that would get me to a 3.48-1 or 3.36-1 with the 30tooth sprocket. The 3.48-1 sounds like a lot of fun in town and short blasts from bar to bar :wootdnc: but not to sure about the open road riding though:hmmm: . Any thoughts on the 3.48-1?

Thanks

Tim

I did the 30-tooth tranny sprocket change on mine quite a long time ago. Very happy with results. 3000 RPM = about 65 MPH. Just a few hundred RPM more than stock, and a real noticeable difference in acceleration. Gas mileage still in the mid-40's. Added a device to correct the speedo, which was pretty cheap and easy. Can't remember now who made it, but I probably got it from J&P. Stock belt when using the 30-tooth on Touring frames. Takes an afternoon. I wouldn't change the primary drive ratio unless I needed to change the clutch assembly for some reason. Unnecessary, and more expense than needed for the equivalent results. If I rarely left town, or I had a six-speed, I'd probably go to the 29-tooth and a new belt. Short of that, I think the 3.36 is a very good compromise ratio. That's my opinion, anyway.

 

[FL8X]

​

:hmmm: Ok this I got off the Andrews web site.

Sprocket Tooth Counts & Ratios 1994-2001
(36 T clutch-25 T engine sprocket)

Sprocket Tooth Counts & Ratios 1985-1993
(37 T clutch-24 T engine sprocket)

TRANS.__R/WHEEL__OVERALL___TRANS.__R/WHEEL__OVERALL
29________70_______3.48_______29_______70______3.72
30________70_______3.36_______30_______70______3.60
31________70_______3.25_______31_______70______3.48
32(Stock)_ 70_______3.15_______32(Stock)_70______3.37
33________70_______3.05_______33_______70______3.27
34________70_______2.96_______34_______70______3.17
29________65_______3.23_______29_______61______3.24
30________65_______3.12_______30_______61______3.13
31________65_______3.02_______31_______61______3.03
32________65_______2.93_______32_______61______2.94
33________65_______2.83_______33_______61______2.85
34________65_______2.75_______34_______61______2.76
BELT DRIVE SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION NOTES
Installing a transmission sprocket with more or less teeth than stock requires adjusting the rear axle forward (for more teeth on sprocket) or backwards (for less teeth on sprocket).
Rear axle position adjustment for each one tooth change on transmission sprocket = + / - .125 inches (3.2mm).

Rear axle position adjustment for each one tooth change in belt length = + / - .280 inches (7.1 mm).

If there is not enough axle adjustment at the rear frame, it may be necessary to use a belt with more or less teeth. There are at least 8 different drive belts available at this time. They have 126, 128, 130, 132, 133, 135, 136 or 139 teeth. The only sure way to tell which belt you have is to physically count the teeth. (Use a paint mark for reference).

1984-1993 EV80 overall final drive ratio (engine to rear wheel) is 3.37 to 1

Overall = ( 37 / 24 ) x (70 / 32 ) = 3.37

1994-2001 EV80 overall final drive ratio (engine to rear wheel) is 3.15 to 1


Has anyone thought of the 24 /37 primary and the 29 trans = 3.72-1? Would a speed trans be needed for open road riding?
As far a the recal on the speedo goes thats not a problem. Have a local stealer not far from here. This is just food for thought on my end. After the first of the yr going to take and rip my bike a part and make some mods. Got my money back on the (extend warranty)< that was almost a waste of money. Anyway :thanks: for all the input on this.

Tim

 

[FL8X]

Thanks Barry That was about what I was think (cheaper) till the wheels started turning in my head. Now looking at maybe some more oppions. I guess the first thing I need to figure out is if the trans sprocket will work on my bike with the skinny A$$ belt.

Thanks

Tim

 

[Antonio Pendejo]

The cheap way? Depends on what model bike you have. Real simple to just swap out the clutch basket and comp sprocket on a touring bike. If you want to change just the tranny sprocket on a FL or softail model be prepared for quite a bit of work, you will get to know your bike real personal like Changing out the primary sprockets seems to me to be the "cheap", or easy way out.

 

[barrybasinger]

The cheap way? Depends on what model bike you have. Real simple to just swap out the clutch basket and comp sprocket on a touring bike. If you want to change just the tranny sprocket on a FL or softail model be prepared for quite a bit of work, you will get to know your bike real personal like Changing out the primary sprockets seems to me to be the "cheap", or easy way out.

Paid 75.00 for the sprocket (box had been opened, and it was just laying around Carl's). Did the work myself--of course. Takes about 4 hours on a weekend afternoon. Yes, you have to take off the inner primary anyway. Way cheaper.

 

[FL8X]

:thanks: for all the inputs. I found this cool little tool on the Baker web site ;
http://www.bakerdrivetrain.com/dialup/techinfoImages/rpmCalc.html . Im really starting to lean toward the 3.72-1 gearing, it looks as if it will only run about 200 more rpm than the 3.37-1. Like Barry was saying , I will have to pull the in primary's any way and Im right there. That with the engine build should have my bike scaring the shat out of me :brows: . Thanks again to everyone for the inputs, any more ideas or thoughts?

Tim

 

[SYCLONE]

:thanks: for all the inputs. I found this cool little tool on the Baker web site ;
http://www.bakerdrivetrain.com/dialup/techinfoImages/rpmCalc.html . Im really starting to lean toward the 3.72-1 gearing, it looks as if it will only run about 200 more rpm than the 3.37-1. Like Barry was saying , I will have to pull the in primary's any way and Im right there. That with the engine build should have my bike scaring the shat out of me :brows: . Thanks again to everyone for the inputs, any more ideas or thoughts?

Tim

Yes..you had better be REAL quick on the shifter cause you will end up with a first gear that will be only a few bike lenths long. You will be at 3000 rpm at 65 mph. With your stock gearing now, you are at 70 mph at 2980 rpm.
Do the 3.37 primary change....can be done in an hour...no speedo recalibration device needed...easily changed back..or pulled for use on another bike.
Makes a noticable difference and is the way most everyone adds some gear..and you DONT have to pull the inner primary and swing arm and rear wheel as when changing a rear sprocket...all you pull is the outer primary cover.

 

[MikeyB]

I have the stock 3.37 gearing and 1st gear is real short, I can just about get the bike rolling in 2nd gear. Also running at 70mph isn't very relaxing on a Softail. But it's great for around town riding. I'm planning to to go the opposite and install a 34T pulley with a new belt. This will put the final drive ratio at 3.17 which should work well with the stroker motor I'm planning to install.

MikeyB

 

[LAF]

I have the stock 3.37 gearing and 1st gear is real short, I can just about get the bike rolling in 2nd gear. Also running at 70mph isn't very relaxing on a Softail. But it's great for around town riding. I'm planning to to go the opposite and install a 34T pulley with a new belt. This will put the final drive ratio at 3.17 which should work well with the stroker motor I'm planning to install.

MikeyB

I will sell you my stock clutch basket and compensator gear cheap if you would like.

 

[MikeyB]

I will sell you my stock clutch basket and compensator gear cheap if you would like.

Thanks for the offer but I'm planning to go with the Andrews 34T with the upgraded seal and lock nut. I gotta fix the leaks on the primary and tranny shaft anyway. Plus, is the primary parts interchangeable between the TC and Evo motors?

MikeyB