2013 EG Ultra Classic Fork oil Change

Just looking at the parts diagram, those damper valves look similar to Race Tech Emulators. They're no longer just simple tubes with holes in them. The key is to make sure the valves stay submerged in oil, or you have no damping. Those old damper tubes could still work even after leaking out some oil, because the holes were down at the bottom and would still meter the oil flow even with a considerable leak.

And with damper valves, you have to bleed the air out of the forks. You don't just dump oil in, button everything back up and go for a ride.

You could always take a chance that the old-fashioned drain, measure and replace will work. I don't think anybody will send you to jail if you do it that way. The oil will eventually all go down to the bottom.

If you ever used those emulators, you would be familiar with the drill. They don't even give you a quantity. They say to fill the tubes to a certain level down from the top of the tube. I know when I do mine, I have to pump each tube at least 6 to 8 times to get all the air out.

Is the shop manual is giving you a quantity to use for just an oil change or is it for a dry rebuild? Is there a separate procedure for an oil change? Or is it all wrapped up with complete disassembly and changing out seals and bushings?

I think having that damper valve in there is going to be the fly in the ointment. Things have changed.

I don't know if you could delete the valve and retrofit some old-style dampers rods, if you could even find some. Aren't these new forks 49 mm? Maybe you could research the parts books to find some from a newer fork that doesn't use the valve. They would have different sized holes in the rods.

Looks to me like the drain screw is in the normal place, so I don't see why you can't just remove the top caps, drain the oil and refill.

Have you read through the entire procedure, to include any special steps needed for refilling? From the 2 sentences you posted, it looks like if the forks passed the leak and wear inspection, there is nothing else mechanical you have to do. I would have to see the whole thing before making some sort of decision to delete steps.

They have a rebuild kit with all the wear items and new fasteners and seals, like it is routine to just go ahead and do everything since they are forcing you to take everything apart, Just for a simple oil change.

I'm not trying to say you have to do it by the book. Lots of time, a pro or even a shadtree, has developed their own procedures that don't follow the manual to the letter, from experience. Me personally, I just go ahead and do a full rebuild on my forks every 4-5 years, with all new bushings and seals. Everything is already apart for the fluid change anyway.

Good Luck!