[13thumper]

I have a 2013 EG Ultra Classic,
I have a Question about front fork oil change procedures.
Yes I have a service Manual.
My previous ride was a 2006 Heritage,
The fork oil change was easy drain the fluid measure the fluid compare to specs. Fill to service manual 12oz.
On my 2013 EG Ultra the manual states dismantle the fork assembly replace Damper valve and seals fill oil to 10.7oz. Damper type 11oz conventional type
On the photo it shows the fork drain screw in the middle of the fork tube where the axle is.
On my Ultra the fork drain screw is on the lower side of tube.
This makes me think maybe my Ultra has a conventional fork type not a Damper valve.
My main Question is couldn't I just drain the fork tubes measure and compare to the fluid specs amount the service manual states and fill each tube with the same amount of oil removed?
The same way I did to my old ride 06 Heritage.

 

[gb1500]

is there an easy way to refill them...with full eg-fairing?...i did it once and thats enough work for me.... draining is easy

 

[13thumper]

Yep draining and filling is a no problem with the fairing just remove the plastic cover under the key switch.
I just can't see why to remove the tunes just to change the fork oil. Makes no sense at all.
Just measure what comes out and compare to fluid specs put the same new oil back in done deal.

 

[rootintootin]

Just looking at the parts diagram, those damper valves look similar to Race Tech Emulators. They're no longer just simple tubes with holes in them. The key is to make sure the valves stay submerged in oil, or you have no damping. Those old damper tubes could still work even after leaking out some oil, because the holes were down at the bottom and would still meter the oil flow even with a considerable leak.

And with damper valves, you have to bleed the air out of the forks. You don't just dump oil in, button everything back up and go for a ride.

You could always take a chance that the old-fashioned drain, measure and replace will work. I don't think anybody will send you to jail if you do it that way. The oil will eventually all go down to the bottom.

If you ever used those emulators, you would be familiar with the drill. They don't even give you a quantity. They say to fill the tubes to a certain level down from the top of the tube. I know when I do mine, I have to pump each tube at least 6 to 8 times to get all the air out.

Is the shop manual is giving you a quantity to use for just an oil change or is it for a dry rebuild? Is there a separate procedure for an oil change? Or is it all wrapped up with complete disassembly and changing out seals and bushings?

 

[13thumper]

I sold my 06 Heritage so do not have the service manual to see if it states to disassemble the fork tubes to change the oil.
I just changed the fork oil old school and put 12 Oz of oil pumped up and down on the forks and was done with no problems.
I was hoping my 2013 ultra could be done the same way. Just trying to keep it simple. kiss

 

[rootintootin]

On my 2013 EG Ultra the manual states dismantle the fork assembly replace Damper valve and seals fill oil to 10.7oz. Damper type 11oz conventional type

My question was about your current ride. My manual has fork oil change up front in the Maintenance chapter and more in-depth disassembly/ parts replacement later in the Chassis chapter.
And there was no disassembly on old forks just to change fluid.
Is there anything simple about these new bikes?

 

[13thumper]

My question was about your current ride. My manual has fork oil change up front in the Maintenance chapter and more in-depth disassembly/ parts replacement later in the Chassis chapter.
And there was no disassembly on old forks just to change fluid.
Is there anything simple about these new bikes?

Here is what the manual states 1.8 fork fluid maintenance .
I'm gona just do it old school way first, drain with fork drain screw, measure the oil, if there is 10.7oz that comes out then all the oil is out then refill the same amount .

 

[rootintootin]

I think having that damper valve in there is going to be the fly in the ointment. Things have changed.

I don't know if you could delete the valve and retrofit some old-style dampers rods, if you could even find some. Aren't these new forks 49 mm? Maybe you could research the parts books to find some from a newer fork that doesn't use the valve. They would have different sized holes in the rods.

Looks to me like the drain screw is in the normal place, so I don't see why you can't just remove the top caps, drain the oil and refill.

Have you read through the entire procedure, to include any special steps needed for refilling? From the 2 sentences you posted, it looks like if the forks passed the leak and wear inspection, there is nothing else mechanical you have to do. I would have to see the whole thing before making some sort of decision to delete steps.

They have a rebuild kit with all the wear items and new fasteners and seals, like it is routine to just go ahead and do everything since they are forcing you to take everything apart, Just for a simple oil change.

I'm not trying to say you have to do it by the book. Lots of time, a pro or even a shadtree, has developed their own procedures that don't follow the manual to the letter, from experience. Me personally, I just go ahead and do a full rebuild on my forks every 4-5 years, with all new bushings and seals. Everything is already apart for the fluid change anyway.

 

[13thumper]

I think having that damper valve in there is going to be the fly in the ointment. Things have changed.

I don't know if you could delete the valve and retrofit some old-style dampers rods, if you could even find some. Aren't these new forks 49 mm? Maybe you could research the parts books to find some from a newer fork that doesn't use the valve. They would have different sized holes in the rods.

Looks to me like the drain screw is in the normal place, so I don't see why you can't just remove the top caps, drain the oil and refill.

Have you read through the entire procedure, to include any special steps needed for refilling? From the 2 sentences you posted, it looks like if the forks passed the leak and wear inspection, there is nothing else mechanical you have to do. I would have to see the whole thing before making some sort of decision to delete steps.

They have a rebuild kit with all the wear items and new fasteners and seals, like it is routine to just go ahead and do everything since they are forcing you to take everything apart, Just for a simple oil change.

I'm not trying to say you have to do it by the book. Lots of time, a pro or even a shadtree, has developed their own procedures that don't follow the manual to the letter, from experience. Me personally, I just go ahead and do a full rebuild on my forks every 4-5 years, with all new bushings and seals. Everything is already apart for the fluid change anyway.

No it is not a 49mm tube they are 41mm fork tubed, the 2013 touring Ultras was the last year before the change to the Rushmore.
I'm going to try the old school method first if I don't get 10.7 Oz of oil out of the lower outside tube drain screw I'll take it all apart.
I think the key is to remove the fork drain screw and push down and up till all the oil pushes out. Then refill with new oil at 10.7oz
And push up and down on fork till all the air is out.
Can't hurt to try.
If all fails just disassemble.

 

[13thumper]

Well this is promising, this video shows changing the fork oil on 2009 - 2013 EG Ultra
By removing the drain screw and draining the oil then refill by removing the top tube cap and filling the tube.
The second video is a 2012 street glide same procedure same amount of oil 10.7oz

 

[rootintootin]

Good Luck!

 

[13thumper]

All good, up date on fork tube oil change.
Old school fork oil change works great.
10.6oz came out, poured 3oz down tube to flush, 3oz drained out.
Installed fork tube drain screw, and poured 10.7 Oz of new fluid, done deal sweet and easy, the cost was 30 dallors 1 qt oil and two rubber tube cap seals.
I went with PJ1 15 wt oil feels nice, handles great.
You do not have to remove the fork tubes to change the oil.
Ihad 25k miles on my ride So I'm not worried about the seals and bushings.
The amount of old oil was right at the amount that should of been in there 10.7 oz.
If you had maybe 30-40 or 50 k miles on the front forks I would say remove them and rebuild them.