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Have you guys with the most persistent problem checked for even a slight binding in the twist grip? The TBW could be working exactly as designed but if the grip "catches" slightly above idle, the idle will appear high when a little push toward the idle detent would correct the situation.
 

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This has been a real problem child for me. I absolutely HATE the TBW on my 08 FLHX. I have tried doing every fix short of the reflash as my dealer went out of business and I don't want to take the bike to the next state in our current weather. My Service Writer also told me that rolling the throttle forward (while running) will cause this issue. I have made sure that after cycling the ignition switch 4 times SLOWLY and it is idling at 1K that when I shut it off there is absolutely no rolling of the throttle forward it will still periodically go back to 2k idle. I ride with 3 other bikes that are 08's and they have never had it happen. I have to cycle the ig switch about 3-4 times a week. It seems to happen most often when backing the bike out of the garage with the bike off - and I really don't see what that could be doing other than possibly rolling the throttle with the bike off which shouldn't make a bit of difference. I am sure that is coincidence, but that is the only time it seems to happen. I did find out that if when it is idling at 2K and you roll the throttle forward and hold it there till it idles down, then quickly return the throttle to its normal idle position - rock it forward quickly and then back to idle it will idle at just over 1K again, but will sometimes creep back up to 1500. All I know is this really pisses me off - not something one should have to deal with after spending 23K on a bike.
Did you ever solve this problem? I bought a used 08 in Apr and have had this happen three time. No apparent reason, bike would start up fine idle at 1000RPM and sometime on the ride start idleing at 1500. Push the throtle forward and it would drop back for a moment to 1000, than back to 1500.
 

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exactly what I am seeing.

i may get real ambitious and take mine to the dealer :beatdh:

PM me until you start to annoy me, and maybe i will do it, and report their findings to you, so you can fix yours to. it was 81 degrees here today :redrolf:

i started using the clutch against the front brake to keep the RPMS down while sitting still
Did you solve the problem?
 

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I never did the flash, and it hasn't been happening as much as it used to so I have just disregarded it for now. One thing I did is to make sure it idles at least 10 seconds before shut down as per a recommendation from someone here on the board and it seems to have helped. I am so fed up with this bike with all of the other problems I have had I am on the hunt for a Gold Wing.
 

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Thing that pizzes me off reading threads lke this is that it shouldn't be happening at all. I have TBW in my car and it doesn't give a rat's butt what I do.
You should drive my Jeep... It does some really stoopid s**t...
Seems like the software was written for automatic only and doesn't
understand manual transmission. This is what happens when the
world revolves around Redmond and that mentality...
-W
 

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So, no final word on this issue? I bought an 08 a few months ago and am having this problem also. Has anyone had any luck with a real long term fix? The cycling on and off is only a temporary fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, JT
 

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08 RK, have had this happen perhaps 3 times in 40,000 miles. I was aware of the throttle rolling forward problem at shut down and am usually hands off the throttle at shut down. I'm now starting to wonder if on occasion I was holding the front brake at shutdown and the squeezing rolled the grip forward slightly. One more thing to watch out for now.
 

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my dealer says any time you roll the throttle backwards (mine has a good bit of slack that way)

it resets the ZERO on the ECM, and it now thinks when the throttle returns to rest, the throttle is being held open that much.

so at stop lights, you have to hold the throttle back to keep the idle down.

i was rolling the throttle backwards to turn off the cruise, i thought that was a real nice feature. gonna read the OM, see if it supposa work like that

here's the temp fix:
turn kill switch ON.
cycle ignitoon switch on long enough for light to go out.

4 times.


that resets it.

and it works fine till you go back ward again on the throttle


supposed to be a Re-flash to fix it,
but the service writer asked me to put this out to the forums, so folks won't be freaking out.
 

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A vacuum leak can cause a high idle with the air getting past the throttle plate. You could also check the integrity of the twist grip sensor that feeds throttle position to the ECM. Most cars I work on have a desired idle speed that the engine attempts to maintain. You can change the idle speed by changing this value. It's a closed loop system with the ECM looking at the crank position sensor pulses and adjusting the position of the throttle body. The only way the engine speed can change is if the throttle position sensor connected to the gas pedal changes it's resistance value which happens when you step on the gas. A vacuum leak messes this entire system up because even with the throttle body completely closed there is still enough air getting in to cause the idle to increase.
 
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