[rbabos]

Seen a few engines that had a case issue. Small casting hole that would leak oil. If o rings are in cylinder is flat, you case use hylamore ( spelling??) aside from welding the case have done that and re cutting the o ring groove or replacing cases the sealant is an option. Had one here about a year ago that was a leaker. Customer bought it new and HD did the work a few times but it never stopped leaking. I found the pinhole , drilled it , and tig welded it up. Fixed without splitting the cases. A bit of a PIA to keep the lower end 100% clean while you are doing all of this. But it can be done, on others that leaked I could not locate exact location of issue, so sealant was used. several years later bike is still not leaking.

This condition is more common than you think with all castings. None are porosity free, but every now and then it will show to the outside as a leak if in the right place. I weld aluminum all the time, and it would be my last choice to fix it. Firstly it anneals the parent metal making the zone softer than the surrounding area. Then there's the distortion problem. With welding comes distortion, no way around it. While it maybe only .002 in that spot, that's huge on a cyl deck. My proceedure with wicking grade loctite is simple and permanent.
Whipe all oil off with brake cleaner until spotless. Heat suspect area with a heat gun. This will expand any fluids trapped in the porosity and will ooze out showing the location of the leak. Mark the area with a marker and continue to heat and blow until no more oil appears. Let it cool. Clean again with brake cleaner and brush the #292 over the problem zone. The object is to keep the area wet and allow the loctite to creep back into the voids. Forcing the fluid back and forth with your finger will jam it in deeper, but not always possible depending on location. A small paint brush, going back and forth works well too. After about 15 minutes whipe off the excess and apply light heat from a heat gun to expand and cure the loctite. For me, this has been a 100% success rate on many applications.
A few years ago we machined a huge water pump for a US nuclear plant. On the 200 psi water test a small leak was pissing a stream of water out. Repeated attempts of welding this huge casting failed. The only other approved method was loctite and it was an instant success. That was 15 years ago. Sleep tight.:redrolf:
Ron

 

[HDWRENCH]

This condition is more common than you think with all castings. None are porosity free, but every now and then it will show to the outside as a leak if in the right place. I weld aluminum all the time, and it would be my last choice to fix it. Firstly it anneals the parent metal making the zone softer than the surrounding area. Then there's the distortion problem. With welding comes distortion, no way around it. While it maybe only .002 in that spot, that's huge on a cyl deck. My proceedure with wicking grade loctite is simple and permanent.
Whipe all oil off with brake cleaner until spotless. Heat suspect area with a heat gun. This will expand any fluids trapped in the porosity and will ooze out showing the location of the leak. Mark the area with a marker and continue to heat and blow until no more oil appears. Let it cool. Clean again with brake cleaner and brush the #292 over the problem zone. The object is to keep the area wet and allow the loctite to creep back into the voids. Forcing the fluid back and forth with your finger will jam it in deeper, but not always possible depending on location. A small paint brush, going back and forth works well too. After about 15 minutes whipe off the excess and apply light heat from a heat gun to expand and cure the loctite. For me, this has been a 100% success rate on many applications.
A few years ago we machined a huge water pump for a US nuclear plant. On the 200 psi water test a small leak was pissing a stream of water out. Repeated attempts of welding this huge casting failed. The only other approved method was loctite and it was an instant success. That was 15 years ago. Sleep tight.:redrolf:
Ron

Agreed on the distortion, I used the heat dam putty and worked very slowly, being that it was a pin hole the fix went very well. i did check for any type of case warping and did not have any. But the loctite idea sounds great, will give that a try next time I have one that is leaking. Great info.

 

[Mtclassic]

does the locktite 292 stain the black cases?

 

[rbabos]

does the locktite 292 stain the black cases?

The area in question for the op is likely on the machined surface or in the oring groove. and will not have any effect. In a liquid state, like on the cases it must be whiped off with a damp rag with a touch of brake cleaner, lacquer thinner or whatever once sufficient wicking time has occured. The extra on the outside has no bearing on the repair but is part of the application process or necessary mess needed to get the sealant into the pinholes. Any loctite remaining on any outside surfaces must be removed because even though anaerobic, heat from the engine will cure it to a really hard substance . Almost impossible to remove if it heat cures without damage to the powdercoat since it will bond to it's rough surface. If cleaned off while in a liquid state, I've seen of ill effects on the appearance of the black powdercoat.
Any repairs should be done on a cold engine. This increases wick time and more clean up time for the surface. Try this on a hot engine, you will be pissed beyond belief.
Ron

 

[Mtclassic]

I checked with the locktite dealer and he said they only make 290 and 294. he said 290 was for low heat apps and 294 for higher heat applications.

 

[rbabos]

I checked with the locktite dealer and he said they only make 290 and 294. he said 290 was for low heat apps and 294 for higher heat applications.

My mistake. I believe I mentioned 292, which don't exist. That's what happens when you have a stash of bottles and the numbers get confused and post without looking. I used the 290 with success in engine temp heat with no problem, since around here it's better than 40$ a bottle last time I bought some. 294 is a higher rated temp and if I were to buy again it would be that one, although unless you are trying to seal up an exhaust pipe the 290 still works. There is also this, that's more specific to the job.
http://www.henkelauto.com.cn/automo...m.cn/automotive/Products/Sealants/Product+Catalog/default.htm-ProductId=113.htm
Ron

 

[Money Pit]

Doesn't it just piss you off to no end to have this happen and there seems no justifiable answer? All that time and money spent. Yep, I sure do know the feeling...

 

[HDWRENCH]

Had a phone call on something like that, Guy was using the the heat process on gear drive cams, well he heated the outer gear as well said it slipped right on. He puts the red loctitie on the bolt gets it in about 4 threads and it stops. He cant figure it out. I asked how hot did he heat the items. He was doing this in welding gloves. WOW!!! With heat it locks up fast.

 

[Nahanhoku]

My 2000 RK had a rear cylinder base leak that I took back to the dealer twice with less than 1500 miles. They finally fixed it. Now with over 105000 miles on the bike, I know how. I was upgrading to a 95ci and pulled the jug to find sealant - likely Hylomar. After about 100 miles with the new build, I am getting the same oil weep at the rear cylinder. I will give it a few more hundred miles and see if it gets better or worse, but expect I will have to use sealant again or try the Loctite 290 if I can find the source of the leak. Afterall, the sealer seemed to work when the dealer did it.

 

[wurk_truk]

Ron

You are a PIMP!!!

 

[rbabos]

Had a phone call on something like that, Guy was using the the heat process on gear drive cams, well he heated the outer gear as well said it slipped right on. He puts the red loctitie on the bolt gets it in about 4 threads and it stops. He cant figure it out. I asked how hot did he heat the items. He was doing this in welding gloves. WOW!!! With heat it locks up fast.

This was extreme. I have assembled parts that are bond only and a mild warmup with a heat gun will set the parts quicker. Use to make hydraulic bow stabilizers years ago when involved in competitive 3d archery. Made the mistake of using loctite primer/acticator once. 680 loctite cured before I could put the parts together. Live and learn.
Ron

 

[rbabos]

Ron

You are a PIMP!!!

Prostrate treatments have come a long way, you know?
Ron

 

[HogBag]

This may help Wydopn

 

[gmdoctor]

I had the same problem when I built my motor. I oiled the o-rings and assembled the motor. What happens is, the residual oil from the outside of the o-rings work themselves between the cylinder and the block downward due to gravity. It shows up on the clutch side only. Mine seeped for a couple of years, because of the close clearance between the cylinder and block. It takes time for the residual oil to make its way down. Mine looked as yours did, then stopped.

 

[fourperf]

I know this is an old thread but after how many miles did the weeping start if the motor was cleaned? I am having the same problem with a 103 on a new 96. The weeping starts after 15 miles on my bike.