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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking of changing motor compensator gear. It has a stock 25 tooth and wondering if anyone has changed to an 24 or even 23 tooth sprockets for more tourqe? I do very little highway riding but want to cruse 75 mph without too high rpm. I understand Harley has changed thier bike to run at lower rpm for emissions and noise. Baker offers an 23 tooth but several other companies offer the 24 tooth. Also thoughts on auto primary chain tensioner adjuster. Hayden M6-BT01?
 

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I changed the transmission output pulley. You can even change the wheel pulley and have the same effect. I'd leave the compensator alone personally. Automatic primary chain adjusters are just problematic me. It's not hard to check and adjust your chain with the manual one and you'll have less problems. Lots of threads about this as well as YouTube videos. Do some research before you jump.
 

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Ya, it used to be pretty common to change those motor sprockets.

What is it now, 25/36? Some combinations require a fat tension shoe, and some require a shorter or longer chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ya, it used to be pretty common to change those motor sprockets.

What is it now, 25/36? Some combinations require a fat tension shoe, and some require a shorter or longer chain.
Ya, it used to be pretty common to change those motor sprockets.

What is it now, 25/36? Some combinations require a fat tension shoe, and some require a shorter or longer chain.
25 compensator,
36 clutch sprocket,
32 trans pulley,
72 wheel pulley.
 

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Ok,, it's a great plan for quicker acceleration,,,, basically every drop of 1 tooth on the comp sprocket,, will be a 4% increase in engine rpm at any given road speed, in any gear,,, there will also be a 4% loss of road speed at any given engine rpm in any gear,, 4%, even 8%, will not drive the rpms up enough to be worrisome under the conditions you describe..

It is also the easiest, and least expensive method to gain performance... as already mentioned,,, lose the automatic adjusted for a mechanical one,, don't bother with hayden adjuster either,,, you may need the thicker shoe, or shorter chain..

If you do not like it,,, switch it back,,, win/win
 

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Is the motor stock? I own a 05 fatboy, at 75 it's getting buzzie. Lowering the gearing, it will be more so. Maybe a cam change if you don't have one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is the motor stock? I own a 05 fatboy, at 75 it's getting buzzie. Lowering the gearing, it will be more so. Maybe a cam change if you don't have one.
Not quite stock.
98" big bore
Andrews 37 cam
Head work.
New style oil pump and cam plate.
Reinhart dual Churchill pipes.
 

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25 compensator,
36 clutch sprocket,
32 trans pulley,
72 wheel pulley.
You can go 24/36 with just a fat shoe and the motor sprocket. Or you can swap out the clutch basket with the motor sprocket and go 24/37.

24/37 was probably the most popular power swap.
 

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I've read where a lot of guys change sprockets or pulleys only to see a 500 rpm drop at hwy speeds. Some don't see much difference off the line either.
 

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With all these comp problems it would seem to me a belt drive would be the answer.
It is a win win system.
Lighter, no comp, no tensioners., no oil.
 

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The vast majority of the compensator problems arrived with the factory 6 speed transmission and the compensator redesign(s) that came with it.
 

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Between four and six hundred bucks plus for a new comp, , oil, gaskets, time, new spring thing for a shoe, etc etc-
Too sound boorish here again, I have no clue why the chain and crap is just not thrown away for a better system, called belt.
20 to 30 lbs of steel running around in there is just caveman engineering.
The belt system is dry, lighter, and no comp.
win win win?
yes i think so
 

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Would changing the clutch basket make the speedometer off?
Nope. Some use front wheel driven speedo's, You can change everything but the front wheel on them and still have good mph readout. Newer ones use electronic speedos that read one of the gears in the trans. On them you can swap stuff in the primary with no issue. But if you change the sprockets on the rear belt (final drive), you need to correct the speedo signal.
 

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With all these comp problems it would seem to me a belt drive would be the answer.
It is a win win system.
Lighter, no comp, no tensioners., no oil.
They have been there and done that. Worked really bad.

With that said, it might work better today, as they can actually keep the primary dry now. But it would also require a wider primary, the power today is approaching double what it was last time they tried it. And it would probably take them 3-4 years to sort out a new dry clutch.

I think the primary goes away on the next new bagger motor. The EPA is forcing them to conserve energy in every area of the powertrain. The new wet motor no longer runs the trans gears in a pool of oil. The oil is sprayed/splashed on, to reduce drag and lower emissions.
 

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Between four and six hundred bucks plus for a new comp, , oil, gaskets, time, new spring thing for a shoe, etc etc-
Too sound boorish here again, I have no clue why the chain and crap is just not thrown away for a better system, called belt.
20 to 30 lbs of steel running around in there is just caveman engineering.
The belt system is dry, lighter, and no comp.
win win win?
yes i think so
The RM motor uses direct gear drive from crank to clutch, with no comp visible in what they have seen fit to show us so far.

Just a guess, but it looks to me as if the compensation is built into the clutch asm anchor.

269544
 

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I don't know what works for others, but I would never go back to a flinging chain drive setup.
But I am only at a 100hp and 100lbs torq.
SO far the 1.5 wide belt has held....It has been a couple years now.
No I would not want an exposed pant leg cutter remover.
 
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