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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Normally I have it set at 20 not sure why I didn’t in that pic but 20 is the thing I’ve normally used.

2. I haven’t don’t that yet. I assume it’s just like doing the battery and I am looking for a boost in voltage when the bike is on?
3.yes I’ve done this a bunch of times and the light doesn’t come on.
4. 100% sure that I did not. I just installed the brand new regulator and battery today and for sure that didn’t happen.

(1) Why in your picture when testing the battery is the meter set on 200v and not 20v?
(2) have you tested the voltage at both circuit breaker terminals? Off and running?
(3) using your test light, hook clamp to the battery positive then test the 3 stator wires, separately, unplugged, not running, should not light.
Are you sure you didn't hook up the battery backwards, even for a moment, can blow diodes in regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I booked an appointment to have the dealer look at it, is there a risk if i was to drive my bike knowing the battery will be toast by the time I arrive? It's about a 20-25 mile ride about half of which is on a highway. I just want to have some confidence my bike wont stall half way or i am at risk of destroying anything. My guess is i need a new stator even though the test show its still ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Update from the dealer is they also said the stator is good and suspect the voltage regulator. Weird part is I just installed a new one two weeks ago. What are the odds that a new one also wouldn’t work? Well we will find out when the new ones shows up I guess.
 

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Unfortunately there is no test for a regulator. It's test the stator to eliminate that, then replace regulator, Another poster here had a problem with a TPS sensor, replaced it with a new one, it didn't work either, new from HD. Seems to be an increasing problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
I’d like to close this thread out, so the solution is spelled out here.

After trying a new regulator last summer, and still not getting a charge when the bike was turned on, I gave up thinking I could fix this myself. I took it to my dealer back in August. They did their own diagnosis and suspected that the new regulator that I just installed either didn’t work out of the box or more likely, that I fried it since I wasn’t a certified Harley mechanic...

Anyways they ordered another new regulator at the time (back in August). 5 months passed and they were still waiting on the back ordered regulator to show up. I took matters in into my own hand and ordered a new regulator that I literally received the next day and dropped it off to them.

When they installed the second new regulator, the bike still wouldn’t charge. So, at this point I replaced the battery and bought two regulators and my bike still won’t charge.

A new mechanic then diagnosed the bike a second time and had the following conclusions.

Cause
  • Output on voltage regulator side is nil
  • Stator side holds AC voltage
  • Battery does not show increase in charge
  • Stator found to drop voltage roughly 50% under any load 10 volts AC - Requires new Stator & Rotor

Solution

- Replaced stator & rotor & primary chain adjuster block - Bike is now charging @ 14.69 volts DC

So, I’m happy that the bike is now working again and back in my garage after 6 months, it took a long time, buying a few voltage regulators that were never the problem, but my dealer owned up things and treated me fair at the end with respect to the final bill.

I’m just glad I won’t have to worry about being stranded next summer with a dead battery
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
So, did they charge you six hours to change the stator and rotor?
The work order had 7 on paper however I was charged for zero (including all the parts). Basically the work order was 1500 and they didn’t chArge me at all for it.
 
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