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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That's a bunch of phooey. A shop should be able to change a stator in two hours tops.
that’s good to know I watched a few videos and thought the same. Doesn’t look like a 6 hour job at all but that’s what he told me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
test one, I put the ground on a bolt tested the three connectors and no light came on. I tested the bolt against the battery and it came on. Seems to have passed this test.

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Test two turned on the bike set the meter to ac and did the three sets of connections. I couldn’t rev the bike and hold both prongs in but the meter read between 18-22 volts as the bike rpm was moving up and down. When I get a second person I’ll have them rev the engine but at least this meter was getting a reading.
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Test 3 testing the battery while running. With the bike running and when I rev the bike the volt meter sat around 12.1 volts.
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Doesn't your bike have a thumb screw to lock the hand throttle on the bottom of the handlebar control. Twist the throttle a little and tighten the screw,
 

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Take a towel wrap it round the throttle and brake lever and tie kindly tight, then twist throttle and let the towel hold it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Take a towel wrap it round the throttle and brake lever and tie kindly tight, then twist throttle and let the towel hold it.
Man your good. I gave it a twist and locked it with twist ties, not sure exactly the rpm but all three volts read the same number at around 48 Volts. Think that means my stator is good since the voltage did increase?
 

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LOL,, If they are all equal, it sounds good. Only other thing, and you have to un-do-it anyway, is check the wire end of the regulator wire where it attaches to the circuit breaker behind the oil tank as described before, maybe a broke terminal end on wire, if not then a bad regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
So I pulled that rear panel off to take a look. Is the wire I highlighted that says breaker on it the other end of the regulator that I will need to remove? I’m still waiting for the part to show up so just thinking ahead.

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That looks to be it. It would be a good idea to replace that circuit breaker too. They do get week with age and if it trips your bike shuts down until it resets. Your year uses a 30 amp, many people even go up to a 40 amp. It's a standard circuit breaker, you can buy at a local auto parts store. It snaps into a mount so just twist a little and pull to remove. If you look closely the posts are 2 different colors, copper and silver, make sure you install correctly, they are one directional.
 

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Since nobody else mentioned it that I saw, those connections look terrible. And could be compromised causing part of the problem. Need to be cleaned up sanitary. I even changed all my cables to high end Gold Plated. Superior Connectivity.
 

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Don't know about the connections, but it does look like a lot of oil and dirt. Can't be good for the circuit breaker,
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Ya my plan is to install a new circuit breaker and give the connections a good cleaning once the regulator shows up in the mail. That photo was probably the first time it’s been looked at in the 18 years I’ve owned that bike so it’s rough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Well I replaced the circuit breaker and replaced the voltage regulator and same thing again. When I start the bike the voltages sits around 12 and does not increase when I rev it. I retested the stator and it passes the test for that. My battery is t that old and holds a charge when it have it on a charger but could it be my battery? What am I missing here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
After it being started and a few times this morning and maybe having it run for only maybe 5 running minutes the battery drains down so it needs to be charge again and drops below 12 volts. Maybe the battery is bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well battery is good, just bought a new one and still the same thing. Started it up with a new battery and bike sits at 12.1 volts and won’t increase with reving it.

not sure what to try next. The shop said disconnect the positive and test the voltage without the battery connected while running but it stalls as soon as I do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I tried using the ohm meter for the stator between the three pin options and get 0.3 each time.
 

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(1) Why in your picture when testing the battery is the meter set on 200v and not 20v?
(2) have you tested the voltage at both circuit breaker terminals? Off and running?
(3) using your test light, hook clamp to the battery positive then test the 3 stator wires, separately, unplugged, not running, should not light.
Are you sure you didn't hook up the battery backwards, even for a moment, can blow diodes in regulator.
 
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