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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My bike battery has been dying requiring a boost to start again when I drive, park, then get ready to go to leave again so I hoped to trouble shoot it by watching some you tube videos.

Anyways when I put a volt meter on the bike when its started and rev, the voltage wont increase. battery is good. i was curious on a 2003, does the plug come out or are you supposed to test at the clip side under the voltage regulator. looking for advise as I'm ready to dump at the shop and say efff it and replace both since its a 2003, but i was hoping to test it myself to know what's the problem. There are no great videos to show this at least on my bike i can find.
 

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2004 FLSTCI, 1993 FXDL
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First thing I'd do is have the battery tested. You can test the voltage at the battery with a multi meter and you should see it increase with the engine revs.
 

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For some reason I got locked out on my last response and couldn't finish it. You can't pull the plug from the case without cutting the wires so don't do that. Test it at the battery.
 

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Next up would be to check the stator output. Or basically run the charging system diagnostic ladder. You do have a service manual, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
my service manual doesn't show how to test it. at least not that i can find.
 

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You may need the electrical service manual...
The battery must pass a load test, before the 12 volt output can be tested.
Then, as therm says, run the diagnostic ladder..
It is the ONLY way you can test the charging system.. it is more involved than a car, but can be ran in 15 minutes,, including taking a break.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just ordered a new regulator and when it arrives the dealership will check the stator as well. They said there is 6 hours of shop time at 150 an hour to replace a stator so I’ll start with the cheap part and cross my fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
270191
Is this where the other end of the voltage regulator goes too if I follow the lines? I can’t trace it without cutting the cable ties so asking before I start. The manual photo doesn’t give me a clue where it goes.
 

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NO, NO, NO ,NO,. That is the battery ground. The other end of that thicker cable should attach to the battery (-) terminal. The regulator wire runs to the circuit breaker that is mounted behind to oil tank , in front of the plastic lower rear fender. Remove lower fender by removing 2 bolts at the bottom, inside the lower fender, then pull down, it hooks at the top, Did you test the stator first?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I’ve tried but I have no idea what I’m doing. Unless I could find a video of the same bike I’m hopeless.
 

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Don't know it you found where the stator and regulator plug together, but the plug is behind the regulator mounting plate. Unplug and test the stator there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ya I’ve unplugged that. It’s got the three connection spots I’ll give it another go when I get home. Thanks again
 

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Should be 16 volts AC, between any two wires, when running above idle, test between all wires,, a to b,,, a to c,,, b to c.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Last time I tried I wasn’t getting anything so I figured I wasn’t doing it right. Probably just the stator is toast too
 

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Be sure to test for AC volts when testing the stator, not dc. If it tests bad i'd go with a complete stator/regulator kit from Cycle Electric, cheaper and more reliable then OEM.
 

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I just ordered a new regulator and when it arrives the dealership will check the stator as well. They said there is 6 hours of shop time at 150 an hour to replace a stator so I’ll start with the cheap part and cross my fingers.
That's a bunch of phooey. A shop should be able to change a stator in two hours tops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That website link is pretty clear and easy sounding. I just picked up a new meter as my old one was shotty to start with so I’ll give it a rip again and see how it goes.
 
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