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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys.
I'm ready to start the assembly process for my 95" build. I ordered the Wood's advance keys and need some opinions. The build is SE cast flats, Dewey heads, 37G cams, 9.8-1, Baisley spring, Cycle shack M tapers on a FXDWG. Which key would you use and why?
 

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Haremscarem said:
Hey Guys.
I'm ready to start the assembly process for my 95" build. I ordered the Wood's advance keys and need some opinions. The build is SE cast flats, Dewey heads, 37G cams, 9.8-1, Baisley spring, Cycle shack M tapers on a FXDWG. Which key would you use and why?
Well, it would depend on what you want the motor to do in conjunction with your riding style. You will determine your own answer and I can tell you what I've been through. I would ignore the 4* key for now because of the intake valve timing of the 37g. So, your choices are +2*, -2* or 0* (stock key). The 37g is already a pretty advanced grind from Andrews. In my case, I tried it +2* and found it nosing over kinda early. Made some changes and am now trying it -2*. Current dyno runs show that I am going in the right direction for what I want, after my motor is fully dyno tuned on the current setup, I may keep it this way or go back to the stock key. It remains to be seen yet but I can say pretty confidently that I will not go back to +2* for my application.
 

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Sounds like you are taking a recommendation from Dewey on the build. Nice set up. And love those M series slip ons!! I built a few of the 37's with Deweys heads and the M series in January of this year and liked the +2 cam advance. It's always about Torque with us here, but Totenkopf is correct in saying that the HP will probably flatten out before it hits the limiter with that key. But it does allow the cam to hit a little earlier. And the Cycle Shacks can be opened up a bit to allow better flow on the top end and still maintain low end TQ. It will change your dyno number to go even up or minus, but it won't help your ride. You aren't talking a huge difference in either +2 or even up anyway. In either case you will be smiling with the Deweys heads and the rest of that build. Should get into around 105 TQ and 100 HP if tuned right. Forget the 4 key for the 37 as explained so well by Mr. Totenkopf.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply guys. I still have the stock ECU, so I'm stuck at the standard rev limit. I've been running the Cycle Shacks, M series true duals, since I bought the bike. I did add 2 more rows of holes in the baffles. If the HP is going to nose over before the rev limit, then I'm thinking leaving the stock key in would be the best.
DAM! anybody want to buy a brand new set of woods keys?
 

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Haremscarem said:
Thanks for the reply guys. I still have the stock ECU, so I'm stuck at the standard rev limit. I've been running the Cycle Shacks, M series true duals, since I bought the bike. I did add 2 more rows of holes in the baffles. If the HP is going to nose over before the rev limit, then I'm thinking leaving the stock key in would be the best.
DAM! anybody want to buy a brand new set of woods keys?
I wouldn't sell them! Play around with it and see what you like, it's not a big deal to change it around. When I had the +2* key in, it would pull hard until 47 or 4800 with excellent whack right off the hit. I flipped the key around, added 1.68 rockers and now she pulls hard up to 5500 or so with very little change in the bottom end performance. Again, you will figure out what you like based on your riding style, now you have the adjustment tool to play with it.

You need to figure out how you are going to tune your motor. Find the best tuner in your area and see what they are familiar with. My leanings are towards the SERT which can be had for around $360 from Zanotti.
 
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