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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I inherited 1998 Electra glide 40k miles from my dad when I was young. having no guidance and knowledge on motorcycles I let it sit. now having a place and the finances to work on it.
Is there a checklist of things I should go over To see what needs to be replaced or fixed.
So far I know, The battery is dead. The Pitcock valve was in the off position. But there is fuel in the tank and it looks like the fuel tank lining has some bubbling.
Any help or recommendations would be great. Thanks
 

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Depends where it was stored in a garage under a blanket(good)? or frozen outside under a tarp(bad)....change all fluids...brake fluids especially asap..break seals may be trashed already tho...brakes work now??....tires prob no good...belt mabe ok....u can use a fuel filter(clear) to see what comes out of the tank when u run it... but flush it out some 1st..old gas out of course... petcock maybe ok(leaking when you move the selector)..prob nd to pull the carb and clean the jets and check the diphram for rot etc...you need to drain the carb anyway unless it was drained already....all depends on the bubbly situation in the tank if you need to go further on it but id keep the filter on for a while so u wont need to keep unplugging/cleaing you primary jet and see how much crap comes out...fork seals might be trashed....after u get it up and runing u need to check the inner cam bearing(change to torrington)...98 is good eg bike year...bunch more stuff/mods to go on later....you may get off easy but brake fluid and fuel/fix cleanup is a given....have a great time...i did... bringing mine back to life
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Depends where it was stored in a garage under a blanket(good)? or frozen outside under a tarp(bad)....change all fluids...brake fluids especially asap..break seals may be trashed already tho...brakes work now??....tires prob no good...belt mabe ok....u can use a fuel filter(clear) to see what comes out of the tank when u run it... but flush it out some 1st..old gas out of course... petcock maybe ok(leaking when you move the selector)..prob nd to pull the carb and clean the jets and check the diphram for rot etc...you need to drain the carb anyway unless it was drained already....all depends on the bubbly situation in the tank if you need to go further on it but id keep the filter on for a while so u wont need to keep unplugging/cleaing you primary jet and see how much crap comes out...fork seals might be trashed....after u get it up and runing u need to check the inner cam bearing(change to torrington)...98 is good eg bike year...bunch more stuff/mods to go on later....you may get off easy but brake fluid and fuel/fix cleanup is a given....have a great time...i did... bringing mine back to life
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the detailed response. The bike was stored in a standalone garage. No blanket or trap. The brakes were somewhat responsive when I pushed it up the ramp of the uhaul. I will get on the fuel /fluids asap. Should I buy a new battery or try to revive the old one?
 

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First of all, you were young 5 years ago? Stored 5 years, but how long ago did it run? I'd go through everything. All the above suggestions are good. But really literally everything. Wheel bearing, neck bearings, all the cables, etc. Don't run any of that fuel through the carb without a filter. If the inside of the tank is coming apart. Well you may need to rebuild the carb anyways but why add to it.
 

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I would concentrate on getting the engine running first, then do everything else..if it will not run, why waste time and money on anything else.... once it is running,,, use the factory service manual to do a 50k service....
While you are doing this, integrate all above into the service.. except do not install an inline filter no matter what who said,,, it will give you problems,,, the petcock strainer is all you need... use clear fuel line for the first 500 miles, then toss that and use reinforced fuel line
It will be a long and expensive service on the bike,,,, if you do it yourself,,, you will save a fortune,, and know the bike well...enjoy
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
[
First of all, you were young 5 years ago? Stored 5 years, but how long ago did it run? I'd go through everything. All the above suggestions are good. But really literally everything. Wheel bearing, neck bearings, all the cables, etc. Don't run any of that fuel through the carb without a filter. If the inside of the tank is coming apart. Well you may need to rebuild the carb anyways but why add to it.
I was 20 at the time, I guess it is subjective . I believe the last time it ran was 6-7 years ago. So the first thing is to make sure I have a fuel filter and get the old fuel out. And go through all essential components. Can all this be done with a mechanic tool set ? Do you know of any parts where I may need a special tool?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would concentrate on getting the engine running first, then do everything else..if it will not run, why waste time and money on anything else.... once it is running,,, use the factory service manual to do a 50k service....
While you are doing this, integrate all above into the service.. except do not install an inline filter no matter what who said,,, it will give you problems,,, the petcock strainer is all you need... use clear fuel line for the first 500 miles, then toss that and use reinforced fuel line
It will be a long and expensive service on the bike,,,, if you do it yourself,,, you will save a fortune,, and know the bike well...enjoy
Thank you for the insight, that makes a lot of sense. I did not even think about the 50 K service in the manual.
 

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[

I was 20 at the time, I guess it is subjective . I believe the last time it ran was 6-7 years ago. So the first thing is to make sure I have a fuel filter and get the old fuel out. And go through all essential components. Can all this be done with a mechanic tool set ? Do you know of any parts where I may need a special tool?
Not for the basics. Standard tools will work.
 

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yeah...filter may or maybe not needed as said above...they can impede flow...the petcock strainer will do it but it may clog up fast and need pulling off a # of times to clear it..but you may not even have an issue with this altogether...if it runs continuously... for an extended time.....you need a manual and a shtload of learning for your new pile....most garage tools are good to go... bigger issues will need some special tools but dont think you are ready for any of that...a good indie can sort out any deeper upgrades/fixes needed like the clutch if its bunged up stuck or comprimised from sitting....or a rotten stator??...untill you are comfident on doing them yourself....also change all the oil lines later on after the dust settles...at least inpect them befor you run it
 

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Welcome.

Since you have no base of knowledge, the hill (mountain) in front of you will start out pretty steep. Don't worry. These things are really pretty simple.

You need to spend a lot of time snooping around the motorcycle. The more you do yourself, the faster you learn. Is the manual you refer to a shop manual or an owner's manual? A real factory service manual is probably the best tool you can buy starting out. With lots of pictures and detailed drawings and diagrams of what the bike has or should have. And there is a section that shows you what you need if there is a special tool called for in some procedure. There's also a parts manual and an electrical diagnostics manual for your year and model. They all seem kind of pricey until you have to pay someone else to work on the bike.

Don't think you'll save money by getting a Chilton's or a Clymer. They leave a lot to be desired. But if that's all you can get, it would be better than nothing most of the time.

Since you have a petcock, that means you have a carburetor. And since you are new here and to Harleys in general, FYI your motor is an EVO motor. Not a Twin Cam. TCs didn't show up until 1999.

Save this link. It can be a good substitute for having your own parts manual. Just pick out your model. If you don't have an idea what something is or what it is called, find it in here.

Harley-Davidson® Parts and Accessories 1998 Harley Davidson (onlinemicrofiche.com)

Find an Independent shop within a reasonable distance for those things that you decide are beyond your skill or desire, or that don't seem worth buying the special tool needed for what could be a one-time use.

Good Luck!
 

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It may be worthwhile to find a local indy to check it out for you since the tires need to be replaced anyway (and that is probably beyond what you are willing to do yourself) The wheel bearings will need serviced or replaced when the tires are changed. You can probably do the fluid changes yourself but an experienced set of eyes may see additional items needing attention
 

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Go with what TT said.... See if it will run first. And if it does run, don't go out on the street till you check out the other things that matter... brakes, lights, fluid changes, tire pressure, tire cracks, axle nut torque values, wheel bearings, belt tensions, etc, etc.
 

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I've done several of these "get it going"deals. They're weren't all Harley and they are all different, but they follow the same formula. Clean fuel tank, clean carb, make sure there's spark and compression. Once fired fix the obvious stuff and then analyze. If it's electric start, I NEVER F.... with old junk batteries and battery cables. I don't get carried away replacing everything at once. Fix the obvious "not working"items but pay close attention to old junk hoses. Anytime your digging into something and have access to replace 30 yr old rubber DON'T ignore it for ease of assembly! Furthermore, many metric bikes can be completely disassembled with a YouTube tutorial. This DOES NOT apply to HD. You need a factory service manual..
 
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