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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, found this little gem hiding in a garage local to me, it followed me home. It sat quietly for 15 years waiting to be loved again. I’ll post some pics of what I’ve done the past week or so to it. 15,000 miles showing.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I’ve done some research and had some help from other forums, seems that the sissy bar and bag support bars were added. Also the buckhorns were installed in place of the factory straighter bars. I got the original bars with the bike and will be reinstalling those. Fuel was total trash, tank liner peeling away, carb was gunked. Fork seals leaking, both tires flat and junk. Engine oil clean and full though. I took a jump box and the engine did turn over so I was satisfied. Brought it home and here are some pics of work done so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Tank is still off and I’m going to have to recoat it. In the meantime I just had to hear it run...I rigged up a funnel to fill the bowl, here are some vids of its first words in 15 years. I gotta figure out videos, please hold.

EDIT i cant post a vid, hmmm.
 

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The difference in compression between the cylinders may be of concern. Nothing a top end won't cure.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will re check after i run it for a bit. Those readings were a cold engine with only a squirt of MMO in the holes.
 

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Nice find! I'm always amazed at how people can leave a nice (expensive) bike sitting for so long. It only took 15 years to realize they weren't going to ride it?
 

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What a great find. Congratulations..!!
I continue to be amazed at the number of extremely low-mile Harleys that keep "popping up" in the marketplace these days.
 

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Once you get it running and the rings have had a chance to seat, run the compression test again, dry the first time and then with a little oil the second time to see if there is any siginificant difference in the numbers. oil will bump the numbers up some if there is wear in the jugs. Most likely just needs to be run for awhile. Just my 2 cents.

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Discussion Starter #9
I thought i was doing good on the comp test, the manual says 90psi after 5 revolutions at WOT. Interesting....

But thats my plan, put some miles on it, fresh fluids, get the carb right then re test.
 

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Nice! Enjoy the ride. I just picked up a 98 Dyna with 7300 miles from the original owner. They are out there!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So today got the tank back on, i thought of doing a total recoat on the inside but got spooked with the factory paint so i pressure washed the inside, then put a shitload of drywall screws inside of it and worked it for a couple days. I would say about 60% of the liner is gone, no more bubbles or flakes.
Rebuilt car with new vacuum bellows, drilled out slide hole & upped the slow & main jet per "knight riders" cheat sheet. Put it back together & fired it up. No leaks, no problem. The Pingel petcock is nice but its a little high, couldnt route the hose through the circular bracket, ill figure that out later cuz ill be installing an inline filter as well.
Removed aftermarket saddlebag bars & sissy bar. Reinstalled factory handlebars. The clutch cable, throttle cable & front brake hose are too long from the buckhorns that were on it, i will need to get the factory length for the SP model shortys. I see that FXR division has barnett cables......any other suggestions?

This baby is really shaping up.
 

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i suggest you forget the in iine fuel filter... over the years, i cannot count the number of fuel starvation issues the inline filters cause,,, from the cheap $5 plastic one to the high dollar billet and cleanable models...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So today i was running the bike to warm it up & change the oil. As it was idling I noticed the tach needle & fuel gauge needles bouncing & the engine began to run a little ragged, lights got dim and blinkers didnt work. Id noticed this before when turning the forks but it happened so quickly that i didnt think much of it. I shut the bike off & look around, checked ign switch area in case i bumped it somehow. Took the left side cover off, all looked normal. Key turns, neutral light & oil pressure light illuminate on gauges, but no crank, all controls on bar are dead.

So i figure i muffed something up between the bar replacement or the sissybar removal. I check the rear fender, nothing there but turns, wiring looks good. So,I move up to the bars. Took switches loose thinking i pinched something. Nope, both sides look good. Removed both switch assemblies & bike still wont start....WTF. So i start tracing wiring, under the tank, all around the triple trees, remove headlight & inspect that mess in there, nuthin......disconnect air shut off valve, nuthin. what the hell, so i grab a test light & start looking around for i dont even know what & in the midst of me fumbling around up front my test light rubs on the handlebar & it lights....?....LOL. So i check the forks, yep i got power, tank, yep. Frame, yep, all powered up. Holy smoke. Now im looking for something layin power on the chassis. So i reinstall the switch groups & clutch/brake levers. When i attached the clutch handle i heard a crackle & the bike was no longer acting up & would start.....Back to the pinched wiring on the bar, nope, all looks good. Take the clutch lever back off & bike is broke again...what the hell circuit am i completing here! Man so i back up & think i gotta have a ground issue but i had no grounds off ever other than installing the battery. So with clutch lever off, bars are hot, forks are hot & frame is hot, engine is not. I stick my confused ass head under the bike & see that when someone replaced the front drive sprocket (i know they did because they wrote it in the service manual i got with the bike when they did the job in 2000) they didnt connect the ground strap from frame to primary bolt.......i cleaned the eyelets, reconnected, and all was right with the world again.

So the reason the previous owner had no troubles is because his buckhorns were not painted so it grounded through them, the original SP bars are painted therefore the bad connection issue i was having after the swap. Poor bike has had electrons running the wrong way in it for 20 years , but its all good now!
 

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Interesting about the ground problem. I forgot how good the original -SP bars look, I run FXDX bars which are about 2'' taller and wider than yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Interesting about the ground problem. I forgot how good the original -SP bars look, I run FXDX bars which are about 2'' taller and wider than yours.
I would like to see a pic if you have one. If thats it in your avatar i cant make it out.

I sourced some other doo dads today, well nuts for the side covers, clutch & throttle cables. I need to find or make a brake hose from front master cylinder to junction for front hoses.
 
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