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It has the same part number as the chrome one that the previous owner installed. I wonder how the parts department keeps them straight?

That is a casting number, also used sometimes as a part number. In the case where there are different finishes one will use the casting number, other finishes will have a different part number, but the casting number on the component will remain the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 · (Edited)
I looked it up the chrome part number is 61411-82, but uses the same casting number as you say.

Here's what a lot of you have been waiting for - I am getting the motor ready for machine work. New crank pin and rods, stock bore cylinders, .010 Malhe pistons, rebuild and fit hyd cam followers. There is an old timer named John who still does shovelhead and earlier motors about an hour from me at a place called Lakeside Machine. He's highly recommended, anybody else know of them? Heads were done by the previous owner only a couple thousand miles ago. I'll disassemble and check them, but I should be good with a cleanup and new seals.

White Automotive design Motor vehicle Gas Auto part



I bought this oil pump a while ago to replace the S&S that was on the motor. Seller said 1980, should be right for an 82? Going to soda blast the weird paint off it. Does it look right? Gear case surfaces look good. The silver stuff is duct tape residue.

Handwriting Bicycle part Motor vehicle Font Gas


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I wonder if I can add a fake chain oiler? Parts catalog shows 63614-72 needed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Yes, mine and the guy who's helping me both have early 82 bikes, manufactured in Oct. 1981.

Now that the Christmas visitations are over, I went back to work. Installed the gas gauge and then the dash console.



Sanded and polished the headlight eyebrow. I could have bought a new one for all the time that I spent, but then it wouldn't be original
:)






Sprayed with clear and will let it cure for a few days.

 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Everyone knows what a nightmare the FX/XL headlight bucket wiring is, but it had to come out to paint the bucket and replace the handlebar switches.



I took bunches of pictures along the way, so I have a chance to put it together right. The metal sockets are held into the plastic connector by a little tab on their side. Careful fiddling with a tiny screwdriver releases it.



Repeat a dozen more times and the main harness is free of the bucket:



The metal pins can sometimes be released from the plastic with the proper tool, a hollow metal tube, but I found the tiny screwdriver worked better.

 

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Discussion Starter · #146 · (Edited)
These little metal strips are used as jumpers and come out easily. I left one side in place so they don't get lost.



One of the reasons there are so many wires and connectors is Harley uses this mess to connect the orange Aux power wires together:



I was able to buy NOS replacement switches fairly inexpensively. The only problem is the wire sleeve is black, so I have to change it to the original grey.



Now I just have to figure out how to remove this mess. I guess if you don't have the right part, glue in whatever you have? I just ordered a rectangular flasher for under $10...




[edit: I'm soaking it in gasoline overnight. I'll let you know how that works out]
 
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Good luck with the gasoline soak...I'll be pleasantly surprised for you if it moves that goop much at all. When I attempted to get into the headlight bucket on my '85 FXRS, I bought one of those "hollow-tube" multi-tools. Never did get it to work as well as a tiny jeweler's screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
You mean one of these POS? Yeah, didn't work for me either.

Gas Circle Nickel Auto part Sugar substitute


But the gasoline soak worked like a charm. The big blobs pulled right off, and the rest scraped down to clean metal very easily. Another tip in the jar!

Very quick blast with the sandblaster and it looks pretty good. I'll get some rust converter tomorrow when the stores reopen to get where I didn't blast well.

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Yup...that's the one. It lives on a shelf in the garage...:(
Congratulations on getting the goop out. It looked like a blob of an epoxy I used a while back...gasoline didn't affect that stuff at all. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
Front turn signal wiring done. The original housings were shot, but the wire was in good shape. Replacement housings looked great, but wires were cut by seller. First thought was cut and splice, or change out the whole socket assemblies with wires. Then it occurred to me I could use the nice clean replacement sockets with the original wires by popping out the contact and spring:



Like new:



The Neutral and Oil Pressure lights were in OK shape, and I was going to re-use them, but today I decided to go with new. Why not at this point? So this is as far as I got with rewiring today:



I have to fix the main harness, someone cut off the plug that goes to the rear fender, and repaired the sheath going to the motor. The rest of it is in very good shape.

 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Today was a snow day so after snowblowing about 6" of the white stuff, I tackled the handlebar wiring.

Here is how the original switch wiring looks. Notice the grey wiring sleeve is held by a clip, then it turns black.



The NOS OEM replacements come with black sleeves, so that had to be removed. Some of the wires have spade terminals that needed to be cut off.



It was a struggle, but I got the wires into the new grey sleeve and installed the strain relief clip. A little dawn dishwashing soap and water helped.



Repeat as necessary, and install the throttle stop screw. The tiny retaining clip was surprisingly easy to install with needle nose pliers.



Bike shop is closed, so I'll get new spade terminals and button head screws and put them on the handlebars tomorrow.
 
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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
I need two little things to finish this up:

First, they stopped using the wire clips to hold the switch wiring to the handlebars, started using these plastic ones: 56070-81 RETAINER. JWBoon has them for under $2, but the vultures on eBay want $30 each! Anyone have four they would sell for a reasonable amount?




Second, inside the right housing is supposed to be a little flat metal piece: 56396-74A FRICTION SPRING, THROTTLE GRIP. That's still available thru the dealers, so maybe I'll just take a run over on Monday.
 
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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
I got someone to order the clips from JW Boon and mail them to me.

Meanwhile the oil pressure and neutral lights came in today so I was able to finish up that wiring and install a few parts:

Wheel Tire Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive tire


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I'll finish up the wiring when I get back from Florida next month. Maybe the motor will be ready for me then too.
 
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Starting to look like a motorcickle Joe..!
btw: If your Florida trip brings you anywhere near Vero Beach, give me a shout, I'll buy you a beer.
 

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Here's a question for you. I've been watching you turn that FXR into a factory fresh jewell and I envy your talents. So, hypothetically, if you were to haul that bike to a shop, taking into consideration man hours, labor costs and parts, what do you figure it would run to duplicate what you've done? Ballpark.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Starting to look like a motorcickle Joe..!
btw: If your Florida trip brings you anywhere near Vero Beach, give me a shout, I'll buy you a beer.
Thanks, I'll be in Sarasota, but if the beer is good, it may be worth a road trip! haha

Here's a question for you. I've been watching you turn that FXR into a factory fresh jewell and I envy your talents. So, hypothetically, if you were to haul that bike to a shop, taking into consideration man hours, labor costs and parts, what do you figure it would run to duplicate what you've done? Ballpark.

Greg
I never count the hours because there are so many, but if I had to guess, 300 so far? Depending on the shop rate, that's $22-30K just in labor. Pushing $5 grand in parts, so that's around $30-35K, and I haven't paid for the motor work yet! An 82 FXR will never be worth that, but if it was a 65 Panhead or some other worthy bike, it could be.
 
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There are many choices of gloss black paint for the frame. Two that are most often recommended are VHT Epoxy and Majic Tractor, Truck and Implement Spray. Yesterday, I started to find out which would be best for restoring the FXR. Since these bikes weren't powder coated originally, I will stick to paint.

I sanded and cleaned a piece of flat bar for this test, and heated the cans in hot water so the paint would be warm through and through.

View attachment 269308

After shaking for two minutes (using a timer) I gave them one medium coat. Coverage was about the same for each, but the Majic was shinier. The VHT dried a lot faster and leveled better.

View attachment 269309

I gave it a second coat after about 15 minutes, and was not happy with how the Majic paint orange peeled. It was definitely blacker and shinier than the VHT paint, though. The directions on the Majic can say waiting 24 hours between coats would give a better finish. I didn’t have patience for that, and paid the price.

View attachment 269310

Comparing to the original frame paint, Majic is the clear winner. The VHT may be closer for older frames? It did match the faded paint on my frame, for what that’s worth.

View attachment 269311

View attachment 269312
Hi, I need to re paint some areas under the seat on my 85 fxr and am not sure what paint to use. Was the VHT satin or gloss?

Regards,
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Hi, I need to re paint some areas under the seat on my 85 fxr and am not sure what paint to use. Was the VHT satin or gloss?

Regards,
Bob
It was gloss
 
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