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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
As far as the forks, someone on a different forum found these for me! So I can just repair mine good enough to sell or save for another project. :)

New Old Stock Showa Fork Assemblies

Two inch longer fork tubes part number 45644-77 are used on 82-up FXRs as well as 77-82 FXS and Sturgis models, so perfect for me.
 

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GREAT CATCH on the slider..!! With the level of detail you're expending on this project...that would have been a shame to miss.
 

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I didn't do a full sand and polish, just cleaned it with a buffing wheel to give it a little shine before spraying clear.

I made some good progress this week then came upon a setback.

First the handlebar clamp came out good. I used semi gloss wheel paint and after cleaning the ribs, scuffed them with 80 grit paper to reproduce the machining marks.

View attachment 270861

Next I disassembled the forks. I had to reinstall the springs to spin out the damper bolts.

View attachment 270862

Cleaned everything up and ordered a rebuild kit from the local shop.

View attachment 270863


I don't know what the previous owner did to the forks but they were a mess.

View attachment 270864

So I dressed them with a dremel on slow speed. Letting the stone bounce at the very end sort of reproduced the surface, but not well. They look like they have a skin condition.

View attachment 270865

I would spend more time with them to try to fix that, but discovered this on one of the brake tabs. So I'm looking for a clean set to replace them. Too bad, because the upper bushings were nice and tight.

View attachment 270866

These are for dual 10" disks. I'd like a pair, because both of mine have surface damage, but only the right one is cracked so would consider just one. Anyone have a decent pair where the bushings are nice and tight? Don't need tubes because mine are fairly new. Thanks
Wish you was closer.. I could use that broken lower... I am wanting to "clean" one for the DragBike!!
Shipping would kill us both tho...
Luckily 35mm stuff is not expensive.. Just remind the seller of all the good folks who say the 35mm is inferior!!!!
 

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Wish you was closer.. I could use that broken lower... I am wanting to "clean" one for the DragBike!!
Shipping would kill us both tho...
Luckily 35mm stuff is not expensive.. Just remind the seller of all the good folks who say the 35mm is inferior!!!!
Why would the shipping cost be of any concern to him?
Do you mean shipping would "kill" you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 · (Edited)
Probably would have taken you up on that @Racepres if the brand new forks didn't show up. I found a local aluminum welder to fix it for future use, but actually it's not to late if you have a good set of lowers and shipping isn't ridiculous. He hasn't seen them or given me a price.

Today was another productive day – put on a couple layers of body filler!

Evercoat is the gold standard for body fillers. I used their Rage because Ultra was too expensive, and I am not a production shop.

First scuff the areas lightly with 80 grit and green scuff pad in the holes. Then mix a ribbon of hardener with a 4″ puddle of filler. Nice of them to use a 4″ diameter can that I can use as a gage.



Two layers of filler got the tank almost perfect. Use 80 grit to get the filler close, then contour with 120 and then finally with 220 grit to smooth and feather the edges. The key to a good contour is close your eyes and feel the surface. Your fingers will tell you if it's right. I had something to do this evening so I’ll finish tomorrow.



Rear fender had a few wobbly places. I hammer and dolly’d them close, and they came out good with filler. The rear seat bolt hole needed the most work. There is a screw on the inside to protect the hole and I’ll clean that up when it’s ready for primer.



Since body filler absorbs water, I’m storing the parts inside.



The next few days will have low humidity, so I’m hoping to make more progress.
 
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Joe; I will explore shipping on fork lowers.
Quick Question... Do I Not See the rearmost seat hold down threaded hole???
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 · (Edited)
Joe; I will explore shipping on fork lowers.
Quick Question... Do I Not See the rearmost seat hold down threaded hole???
LOL yes, the body filler covered it when smoothing the area around, but I will clean the hole out before I start priming. There is a bolt inserted from the inside to protect the threads.
 
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It took over an hour, but it turned out nice:



I still have to get a new pin, but the side stand fits a lot better now:



Because I had to build up the stop, I'm not sure of the correct angle when the stand is raised. Does this look right? I could file the stop to raise it if I have to.




EDIT: I just realized the two rivet holes are for the side stand bumper, so it should line up between them! duh

That's some seriously nice work on that side stand mount.
 

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Today was a major milestone, I started assembly!

First up, fit the swingarm to the transmission. One would think it would slide back where it was, but I had to spread the cleve blocks 1/8" to make room. There is a Harley special tool, but a long carriage bolt, nut and washers works just fine.



Slide the pivot in from the left, and install the plastic washers and new rubber mounts. Both nuts get installed loosely for now.



Install the caps, with the locating pins forward. Tighten and torque all the nuts and add the bling. The bike is so happy, the swing arm stays up by itself!



Next up, install the shocks. I just snugged the upper bolts because they will come out again when I install the fender struts.

What is that tab behind the release arm? Is it for an exhaust clamp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
What is that tab behind the release arm? Is it for an exhaust clamp?
Yes it is. This is the version that goes with the rubber exhaust mount. Later bikes had a different bracket that I've heard is stronger and won't crack the pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
My fingers told me a couple places needed a little more filler, so I scuffed them up before mixing a small batch.

Hood Bicycle saddle Fish Automotive exterior Automotive lighting



Then I sanded all the parts with 220 grit and looked around for shiny spots.

Motor vehicle Fuel tank Automotive design Automotive tire Helmet


I mixed up a couple batches of glazing putty. It uses half the amount of hardener, but still kicked quicker than the filler. Wasted a bunch, but got all the parts finished. This goes on very thin, and is for pinholes, etc.

Table Liquid Bottle Automotive tire Fluid


Then it was time for three coats of Omni 2K High Build Primer Surfacer 15 minutes apart.

Plant Gas Wood Composite material Font


I'll let them cure for a while then do the finish sanding.

Leg Human body Comfort Door Thigh
 
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Today I sanded the tank all over with 220 grit on a flexible block. The side of the tank where the dent was repaired didn't look right, so I fogged a "guide coat" of cheap black paint and lightly blocked it with 220 grit on a long board. You can see how the repair wasn't perfectly smooth, the lighter areas are where the sandpaper removed the guide coat, and darker areas a little low. Keep in mind these are just a few thousandths off, but they would have been very noticeable under the final paint.



I sanded thru the primer with 80 grit and then another thin layer of body filler brought it back to where it should be. Then more sanding with the long board and flexible block.



I did one more layer near where I sanded down to bare metal, but didn't take a picture. So then, sand the fenders with the flexible block and 220 grit to remove any unevenness and orange peel from the primer. They are ready for the final coat of epoxy primer and then paint!



The repaired parts of the tank got three more coats of high build primer to perfect the finish. I'll sand them out in a couple days, and the tank will be ready too.

 
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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
The NOS fork legs arrived, and they need some TLC. But knowing the internals are new justifies the work to clean them up. Today wasn't a garage day, but I wanted to show what they look like. I'll sand out the blemishes and re-clear the lowers. The tubes should just need a good degreasing.



 
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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Wow, I am so happy today. Wasn’t sure how the forks would come out, but they came out great! The issue is there are shiny areas and rough cast areas, and I didn’t want to ruin either. First I experimented on the axle caps, they had some oxidation and I went to my go-to wire wheel to remove. It did a good job but left a dark stain. I sanded one with 400 grit paper, and the other with a green scrub pad to clean them up, and sprayed with my Napa TEC acrylic clear:


The scrub pad one on the left came out better, so that was going to be my approach. You can also see the NOS gold anodized fasteners, you can’t get them any more.

I cleaned everything with acetone first, and that started removing the factory clear coat. Perfect, because it left the original finishes that I can match after repairing the scratch marks and oxidation spots. Green pad was too rough on the shiny areas, it left more scratches, so I went to the hardware store and came back with a brass wire wheel and a fine white scrub pad. The wire wheel left scratches but the scrub pad didn’t do anything on the issues. Looking at the factory shiny areas, there are fine sanding marks, so first I tried 400 grit, and that removed the stains, but was too coarse. 600 grit was closer, but 1000 grit was just right. You can see what I mean by rough and smooth areas.



Once more with the white scrub pad and lacquer thinner, mask the tubes and spray with clear:



As I said, I am very happy with how they came out. Maybe tomorrow I can assemble them onto the bike.

 
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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Joe; I will explore shipping on fork lowers.
Quick Question... Do I Not See the rearmost seat hold down threaded hole???
I sent you a PM about shipping. Got a picture of what you are trading? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Another milestone reached, its looking like a bike now!

After sticking new reflectors on, the top nut removed, and the tube tightened into the lower tree, I used this to help install the top nut:



Snug the top nut, loosen the lower tree nut and tighten the top nut before torquing the lower tree. Install the axle and it’s done! The forks even came with oil.



 
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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Thanks

Today was the Big Day! Forecast to hit 70 with low humidity. Perfect.

First a coat of epoxy primer to seal everything in.



Then two coats of base coat. The first coat looked good under ambient light, but a bright light showed how thin it was.



Two coats of clear on the tank, three on everything else.



Modern paint flows out so nice!





The tank only got two coats of clear because when it cures, I'll wet sand and add these decals.



The decal guy says to wait a week before clear for the adhesive to set. Then I'll spray two more coats on the whole tank to cover the decals.

Everything will be wet sanded and buffed to a high shine. Then put aside until ready to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 · (Edited)
Got the decals on. Even though the clear looks nice, there is some orange peel.



So I sanded with 500 and 1000 grit to prepare for clear over the decals. Then I measured my dimensions with a copy of the decal and marked with tape:



A little water sprayed to give me a chance to adjust and then I stuck them on. Rubbed the transfer paper with a spreader to get it stuck without bubbles. Peeled that off and it came out great!



I'm embarrassed to say I messed up the other side, applied it exactly 1" too far forward, so I peeled it off and ordered another one.
 
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