V-Twin Forum banner
61 - 80 of 112 Posts

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I haven't really inspected the original harness, but if I do replace it, V-Twin sells a USA-made reproduction that is pretty good.

Here’s what’s new. Tins have been blasted and waiting for the summer humidity to break. Then I can give them a coat of epoxy sealer before process of filler, sandable primer, more sealer, then paint.

270453


Meanwhile, I blasted and painted the ignition and electrical panels. I used VHT black epoxy spray can to give a different finish than the frame etc., and brush-on silver rustoleum. I also ordered new circuit breakers.

270454


I also picked up this complete ham can filter at the Terryville AMCA meet a couple weeks ago. The fender struts have been soda blasted too.

270455
 

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Does anyone know what the markings on the frame above the 17 should be?
270494
 

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
Hurricane Henri caused a little havoc, but nothing too bad. Gave me some time to work on the bike. Decided to polish the rear fender struts. First thing was to sand them. One was in good shape, only needed 600 and 1000 grit, but the other was stained badly and I wound up using 320/400/600/1000 to get it good enough to polish.



I used Eastwood products, red and white rouge with hard and soft cotton wheels.



I should have known better, but thought I could get away with spraying with clear and quickly bringing inside but the humidity clouded up the paint almost immediately!



Luckily acetone removed it, and I could touch up the polishing and then spray in the air conditioned unfinished bonus room.



I'll let them cure for a week, then mask and spray the black insert and put in NOS red reflectors.
 
  • Like
Reactions: V-STRUM and Alan S

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,612 Posts
That's pretty slick.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Thanks Alan.. Those are actually the ones I was wanting to Trade you... But, as you can see, this Frame is an Early one... No Place for the Forward mounted Shock!!! Here is anothe aluminum Plate thing I do Sublimation onto... Just for Shits and Giggles
Hood Cosmetics Automotive exterior Automotive design Bumper


They need to be Hand Fitted usually...as every dash seems slightly Different for some reason...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I haven't really inspected the original harness, but if I do replace it, V-Twin sells a USA-made reproduction that is pretty good.

Here’s what’s new. Tins have been blasted and waiting for the summer humidity to break. Then I can give them a coat of epoxy sealer before process of filler, sandable primer, more sealer, then paint.

View attachment 270453

Meanwhile, I blasted and painted the ignition and electrical panels. I used VHT black epoxy spray can to give a different finish than the frame etc., and brush-on silver rustoleum. I also ordered new circuit breakers.

View attachment 270454

I also picked up this complete ham can filter at the Terryville AMCA meet a couple weeks ago. The fender struts have been soda blasted too.

View attachment 270455
electrical panels look great. well done
 

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
With the paint cured, I masked the areas to be painted black.



Brought them upstairs and sprayed with Majic Tractor paint. I let it dry for five minutes then removed the masking tape. That will give it a soft edge.



I stuck the reflectors in to see how good they look. I'll peel the tape and do it right tomorrow after the paint fully dries.




The new HD motor stabilizers finally came in. They are not exactly the same as the originals, but will work so much better.

 
  • Like
Reactions: V-STRUM

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Today I took out the gas tank and sealed the inside with POR-15 gas tank sealer. It is a system that I have used before, but you have to follow their instructions exactly to get good results.



Since this is a virgin tank, I didn't have to use their stripper to remove any prior coatings. First product I used was Marine Clean, which dissolves gum and varnish. You have to dilute it to make half a gallon of caustic material. Wearing gloves, etc, I sealed up all the openings and swished it around for 20-30 minutes and discovered my dent repair left a pinhole!



I tried to seal it with solder, but even with paste flux, it didn't seal. So plan B is to rely on the POR-15. They give you material to do this from the outside, so I hope it works.

Next step is called Prep & Ready, which is a purple acid that etches the metal and helps the sealer adhere. You put the quart in and after swishing around, put the tank in various positions for 20 minutes each to let the magic happen.



I also put some on the outside of the pinhole to prepare that area while soaking the other side:



After five or six 20-minute sessions, I drained and rinsed the tank and using a hair dryer, compressed air and a heat gun, got rid of all moisture inside the tank. This is the key to success.
 
  • Like
Reactions: V-STRUM

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #70 ·
To get a good seal on the pinhole, they say to coat liberally with sealer, apply a piece of cloth they provide, and cover with more sealer.



Then pour in the can of sealer and swirl around slowly to give the entire tank a good coating. Once that is done, drain the tank for at least half an hour so there is no puddling. Lucky for me the FXR tank has an opening for the gas gauge sender that does not protrude into the tank like the filler and petcock openings. This gave me a good drain of all three products. With the tank upside down, the crossover tubes stayed clear too.



Finally take a q-tip and clean out the threads for the sender.



It takes four days to fully cure. Hopefully soon the humidity will be gone and I can start working on the outside of the tank and the fenders.
 
  • Like
Reactions: V-STRUM

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #72 ·
You are doing great..., I probably would have bought a new tank!
I thought about it, but you never know what you are buying.
 

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
There were a few fasteners, etc that were keeping me from attaching the electrical panels to the frame, so today I cleaned them up. The gas gauge sender was broken, but luckily I saved the one from my other FXR and that one cleaned up nicely, as did the original round plate that was painted with the tank.

I don’t know why only one of the two side panels is attached with quarter turn pins. The parts book says both covers should have pins, so the previous owner must have lost one and replaced it with allen screws. I ordered NOS pins and clips.

Lastly I took the gas petcock apart and cleaned that up too. I have a problem getting the brass nut that attaches it to the tank to thread back on to the petcock, they are fine left hand threads and keep getting cross threaded. I ordered an NOS nut and I will get a new filter and o-ring for it.

270696


The new power supply works great for plating. I did the battery bracket, the gas gauge plate, and the petcock nut and little screws. The coating is a lot more durable and shines up like it should. Apparently I just needed more amperes and less volts. That brush in the middle was used to plate only the outside of the petcock nut.

270697
 
  • Like
Reactions: V-STRUM

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Happy to make some progress in final assembly. Still waiting for the USA 30a breaker my local guy is getting me.





 

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Some more progress was made over the past few days. First I sanded off the last of the paint on the fenders and tank, and gave everything a going over with 220 grit paper to prepare for primer. This latest storm promises to bring drier air behind it, so I may get to do something soon.



Then today I disassembled the front forks. The next goal is make it a roller, rebuilding the forks and wheels.



One problem that I found was the part of one caliper that holds the nut was broken off. I will see if the piston is any good before buying another, because it's date coded. I can wedge a flat screwdriver in there to keep it from turning.



The lower triple tree is ready to paint and the upper is polished.

 
  • Like
Reactions: V-STRUM

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 · (Edited)
The humidity was way down today, so I could start painting! I cleaned the tank, fenders, side covers and lower triple tree with acetone, masked them off, and did the undersides with Majic Farm spray with hardener. The outsides will be basecoat/clearcoat, but I cheated because single stage is so much easier. LOL

I found a tiny hole in the back fender and filled it with solder. Not sure why there was a hole there, but it's hidden now.



I masked the parts to keep paint off the outsides.



They came out good. I'll let them cure for a week or so and hopefully be able to start priming them.

 

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #77 ·
I polished and plated a bunch of fasteners and assembled the triple trees with new bearings.

White Sleeve Grey Trigger Gas


Still need to resolve the decal issue.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Fender Automotive exterior


Going to clean up and paint the handlebar risers next. Anything special about the paint, or will any semi-gloss work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,612 Posts
Very nice... I do Not believe that my top tree was polished from the MoCo... but... I like it alot...
 

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #79 · (Edited)
I didn't do a full sand and polish, just cleaned it with a buffing wheel to give it a little shine before spraying clear.

I made some good progress this week then came upon a setback.

First the handlebar clamp came out good. I used semi gloss wheel paint and after cleaning the ribs, scuffed them with 80 grit paper to reproduce the machining marks.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Rim


Next I disassembled the forks. I had to reinstall the springs to spin out the damper bolts.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Air gun Bumper Trigger


Cleaned everything up and ordered a rebuild kit from the local shop.

Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Office equipment Cylinder



I don't know what the previous owner did to the forks but they were a mess.

Trigger Gun accessory Air gun Carbon Composite material


So I dressed them with a dremel on slow speed. Letting the stone bounce at the very end sort of reproduced the surface, but not well. They look like they have a skin condition.

Automotive tire Air gun Automotive exhaust Bumper Bicycle frame


I would spend more time with them to try to fix that, but discovered this on one of the brake tabs. So I'm looking for a clean set to replace them. Too bad, because the upper bushings were nice and tight.

Bird Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Bumper


These are for dual 10" disks. I'd like a pair, because both of mine have surface damage, but only the right one is cracked so would consider just one. Anyone have a decent pair where the bushings are nice and tight? Don't need tubes because mine are fairly new. Thanks
 

·
Registered
1982 FXR Shovelhead
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Over the weekend I finished painting the brackets for the license plate and passenger seat strap



Then today was 70 degrees with low humidity. Perfect paint weather. I made stands for the tank and fenders with parts from a friend's tent, and some wood covered with boat trailer bunk cloth.



Gave the parts a quick once over with 320 grit paper and then spent an hour or so cleaning them with acetone. I also saw on the right side of the tank where the original tank decals discolored the metal! Now I have true measurements.

A little masking tape and they are ready, along with the side covers:



I'm using PPG Omni Epoxy Primer, and the supply house told me three times it goes on before body filler, so that's what I did:



I'll give them a few days to cure then do body filler, sandable primer, and another coat of epoxy primer before paint. I'm looking forward to making progress.
 
  • Like
Reactions: V-STRUM
61 - 80 of 112 Posts
Top