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Considering upgrading to the 1550 jugs, is it necessary to pay the stealer $299.95 for the cylinders? Why can't the stock jugs be bored to fit the new pistons? What would be a fair price for the boring service?

Thanks :confused:
 

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Spoke, Don't even think about giving the stealer the big buck for new jugs. You can get the stock 88 jugs bored out for about $110. I bought a set off Ebay for $55, sent them to Short Block Charlie for boring and fitting of HD flat top pistons. Total cost for that was $225. When I get them installed next week, I'll sell the take-offs on Ebay and be ready to go with no additional down time. In fact, I'll be glad to sell them to you if you are interested.

Ken
 

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Whats the order in which to bore stock cylinders?
i.e. Buy pistons and re-bore to fit, or re-bore cylinder and buy pistons to fit?
If its re-bore then get pistons to fit, what diameter?
 

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rebore

You always bore to match the pistons and rings. Remember when you start sending parts all over the country to be worked on, you lose time and shipping costs. Then, you need a shop that wil use parts prepared by someone else. To the contrary, most GOOD dealers and indys will stand behind their work if you use their parts. The HD parts might cost a few bucks more to start with, but what happens when you have to pay to pull the motor back down due to a problem. The machine shop blames the assembler and the assembler blames the machine shop. Guess who gets screwed. I try to get evrything done, parts and all, at the same place. If I had a good machine and motor shop down the street from me, I wouldn't hestitate to have bored 88 jugs, but I would want the same guy to put the motor back together. I have learned this lesson the hard way.

shooter
 

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The factory stuff works well and in fact I only paid 240 bucks for new jugs. If your after the "perfict fit" it only can be done by a verry good shop. Sloppy boreing can lead to miss-aline holes added piston noise and a fealing of "I should of". Thats what happend to me when I did a low $$$ conversion of my XLH-8883 to 1200. The shop did such a crappy bore job I will never be abile to use the jugs when the motor needs new pistons/rings. The bore is off-centered and I know that means the cyc are getting egg shaped and one day useless. Fitting the holes to the pistons is the ONLY way to go for feal preformance applacation like the street/strip motors I help build for cars.
 

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Broken Spoke... something to think about...... The 1550 jugs will have more meat in the walls, but the piston fit could be questionable. There is a big variance in the piston to wall clearance between each cylinder. If you want the beefier cylinders,
by all means buy the 1550 jugs, but also buy .005'' oversize pistons and have the bore honed ,and the pistons fitted. Just a suggestion. Personally that is the way I am going to go.


cars are little and smell funny............dzlfitr
 

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I'm no mechanic but I've heard it here and my shop says it too; boring out your cylinders is the way to go because they have been heat cycled. Nothing to do with money for me.
 

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dzlfitr said:
Broken Spoke... something to think about...... The 1550 jugs will have more meat in the walls, but the piston fit could be questionable. There is a big variance in the piston to wall clearance between each cylinder. If you want the beefier cylinders,
by all means buy the 1550 jugs, but also buy .005'' oversize pistons and have the bore honed ,and the pistons fitted. Just a suggestion. Personally that is the way I am going to go.


cars are little and smell funny............dzlfitr

There would be nothing "beefier" from 1550 new jugs over bored stock jugs . Nothing that is as long as its a good shop doing percion work.
 

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Before and After pics......1450 to 1550
Bored and Honed. (not mine)
 

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Wow that looks like there's not much wall left..I think if you get the same amount meat on the 1550 that the 1450 had,I would rather pay the extra money and have peace of mind.
 

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According to Donny Petersen
"The stock 88’s have a bore of 33/4”. The 95’s bore is 3 7/8”.

Looks to me that the stock cylinder wall is about 1/4" thick. *Lots* of folks have gone to stage II, if cylinder wall thickeness was a problem, folks would be screaming bloody murder. Lack of said screaming = non-issue.

BWDIK.

wyo
 

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SIN said:
Wow that looks like there's not much wall left..I think if you get the same amount meat on the 1550 that the 1450 had,I would rather pay the extra money and have peace of mind.
Pay the extra money? Seems like the consensus is the Harley cylinders are the same. It's just a question of who bores them out to 1550, Harley's supplier on new cylinders, or somebody boring yours.

If the thickness (or lack) worries you, try Axtell 97" cylinders, there may be others too.

http://www.axtellsales.com/NewFiles/NewProducts-97 Drop On.html
 
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