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1/2" torque wrench

1600 Views 18 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  goingsking
The only torque wrench I have is a 1/2". Looks like most of the sockets I will be using on the TC88 will be 3/8" drive. Is there a problem using adpaters when I torque the bolts?
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At high torques yes that can be a problem but I wouldn't worry about it as you have a bigger problem. Most of the stuff you will be torqueing will be inch pounds not foot pounds and I don't know of any 1/2" drive inch pound torque wrenches.
Since you are asking for advice I'll give you mine, go buy the correct wrench. It will be cheaper in the long run.
No, a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter will not affect the torque setting. Just be sure you are not in the bottom 10% of the torque wrench adjustment. Sometimes they are not as accurate in the bottom 10% or top 10% of their range.
Also, be careful not to mistake inch pounds for foot pounds. 12 in lbs to each ft lb. Just saying to read the torque requirement carefully. Harley mixes them.
It would be best to buy a smaller torque wrench, usually 1/2 drive wrenches are for the big stuff like head bolts, but most of the bolts can be done more accuratly with a smaller torque wrench.
Good luck on you work, and take your time you will be fine.
All good advice given and I will add one more, SIZE. You will want at the minimum 2 calibrations, inch and foot, now tradition in the Craftsman that I can afford are the inch is a smaller size/frame then the foot size/frame. In my short time tearing it up I have found situations when I would have liked the size/frame reversed. I guess if you got money a Snap On Digi in each frame/size would do it.

OH your 1/2 will be good on axle nuts, if you get blessed with a compensator nut(although new procedure is torque and then a quarter turn), and clutch basket work.
I am going to go buy the torque in-lbs wrench. Yeah, they do mix it up. I will just use the 12in lb equals 1ft lb.
Thanks for the advice. I changed the oil today, and the manual says torque drain plug 14ft - 21 ft lbs. I used the min 14 ft lbs. So, 14 ft lbs = 168 in lbs.
one thing i didn'see mentioned is that it needs to be a quality click type wrench. pointer wrenches are for old trucks, not at all accurate.
They still make them there pointer type wrenches?
Damm if I had only known!:nunu:
I have the microtorque inch lb one (smallest) I bought on accident which I use quite a bit, a 3/8 in and a 1/2 (great for lug bolts on your car, and a few other hard torque items).

I use the 3/8 the most. If you have to pick one, the 3/8 will be used the most.
I have found that i use all 3 of mine. I have 1/4 and 3/8 in inch pounds and 1/2 in foot pounds. some times the small one comes in handy for those those tight spots.
shrike96 said:
I have found that i use all 3 of mine. I have 1/4 and 3/8 in inch pounds and 1/2 in foot pounds. some times the small one comes in handy for those those tight spots.
Who offers a 1/4" torque wrench? I haven't seen one.
pa-glazier said:
Who offers a 1/4" torque wrench? I haven't seen one.
We have one at work, I think it came from Grainger. We also have one for inch pounds that is built into a screwdriver. Made for torquing small screws. We use it on air regulator gaskets.

Here is the 1/4" one from Gainger. Expensive little sucker.

SnapOn, of course!

pa-glazier said:
Who offers a 1/4" torque wrench? I haven't seen one.
SnapOn, and if you are really serious about working on scoots, rather than being a shade tree mechanic, you will eventually need at least 3 torque wrenches.

SnapOn offers the following pretty-much-necessary torque wrenches ranges in ratcheting, click-type torque wrenches:

1/4" 10 to 50 inch pounds
3/8" 40 to 200 inch pounds
1/2" 30 to 200 foot pounds
Each wrench costs approximately $250. But wait, there's more.

For those of you sharp-eyed individuals who caught it, 200 inch pounds=16 1/2 foot pounds. That leaves you an uncovered range of 16.5 to 30 foot pounds with these three torque wrenches. Not important you say? :dunno:

The 06 Harley-Davidson Touring service manual calls for the following torque specs. Note that the second or higher number indicates the initial torque the fastener should be tightened to. The first and lower number indicates the torque setting that should be used when checking to see if the fastener has retained its orignal torque setting. That way, there's no need to break the Loctite when checking fasteners.

-Engine oil drain plug-14 to 21 foot pounds
-Chain tension nut torque-21 to 29 foot pounds
-transmission drain plug- 14 to 21 foot pounds
-fuel filter hex jam nut- 15 to 20 foot pounds
-spark plugs- 12 to 18 foot pounds
-battery hold down clamps screw- 15 to 20 foot pounds

There IS a SnapOn wrench in that range, a 3/8" ratchet from 5 to 75 foot pounds. Another $250! :crying:

And finally, for those REALLY small fasteners (the master cylinder reservoir cover specifies a torque of 6 to 8 inch pounds), yet another range which is not covered by our existing set of, now, 4 torque wrenches.

For this low range, SnapOn offers a 3 to 15 inch pound torque screwdriver. Also, as I recall from my SnapOn dealer, about $250 bucks! :nono:

I bought the 1/4" and 3/8" inch pound ratchets to go with a 1/2" foot pound ratchet I purchased some years ago when I was building a small block Chevy. I haven't popped for the low range torque screwdriver yet and probably won't. :nope:

One final point. If you do use the click-type torque wrenches, you must set them back to zero after use. If you don't, it's about the same as leaving the magazine for your automatic pistol full of shells for a long period of time. It will weaken the spring in both.
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I am one of those folks that looks to pawn shops for some items and torque wrenches is one of them. I have purchased some very fine wrenches for pennys on the dollar. You got to assume that the wrenches were stolen from someone but hey, they are for sale and someone is going to get a good deal.

I tend to go for the newer looking ones and if it is semi-critical, I will compare it with another wrenche to see if it is in the ball park. (This is done by putting one wrench in a vise, coupling the heads, and comparing torques.) If it is a critical torque like aircraft components, there are certification agencies that will calibrate your wrench and certify it.

The last pawn shop deal was a brand spanking new Craftsman 3/8" wrench for $25. It was a click type, not digital.

One forum member spoke of problems with beam type wrenches. I would like to say that the professional versions of beam type wrenches are extremely accurate and were used for years and years in highly critical applications. In fact, for many users, beam types are much easier to use because of the problems reading and setting the values on the click-type wrenches.
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I've bought S&K torque wrenches for $80...I got them from Landmesser tools in Michigan. they were a good place to buy air tools & S&K wratchets/sockets before the internet.
I still have a beam type i bought in the '60's from Honest Charley's...anyone remember them?...muscle car parts like Jeg's/Summit.
Something else to think about - Treat them tender, and either buy a tester that will verify the calibration, or send them off once in a while.
ebay recently had snap on torque wrenches for $219
jim t said:
one thing i didn'see mentioned is that it needs to be a quality click type wrench. pointer wrenches are for old trucks, not at all accurate.

You are so WRONG...you shouldn't be spreading misinformation like that.

I have commented on this many times. Try a search. I used to calibrate torque wrenches daily; and I know what I'm talking about.
Man, I didn't realize you had to release the adjustment, need to go home and do that. I guess if you leave it at the load limit, it is going to be less then actual?
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