In my opinion this is the best bang for the buck out there for a bagger.
I bought the SE 103” pistons with barrels, 255 cams with gaskets kit. List price $749, Zanotti’s at about $630 shipped. I had the bike in for a warranty oil leak at the bottom of both barrels so it just cost me the labor to change the cams and a retune. The work was done at Latus HD.
When they had the heads off I picked them up. Took the valves out, cleaned all the powder coating paint from the combustion chamber, ports and polished them smooth. Both exhaust valves were not sealing at about a half-inch area. I lapped the valves in to a total seal, reinstalled the valves with new seals. Total time, about 5 hours, cost $14 bucks.
I talked with Mike Stegman before and he said not to put the SE head gaskets in due to increased compression with these cams can cause pinging. So they just used the gaskets that came with the kit.
Riding impressions are; it will just about idle from a stop, pulls hard down low and starts to give up about 4500rpm just as the dyno sheet shows. A perfect fit for my riding style and it really should be this way from the factory. In the Screaming Eagle bikes it pretty much is. Riding at 70mph in 6th gear yesterday, rolled the throttle and it was right to 90 in a heart beat.
If a person can do this build themselves, they can get over 105tq including the tune for about $1000. My last built made 109tq and cost 3 grand more, that’s a bunch of money for 4 lbs of torque.
I have the comments about I may have poor fuel mileage due to Latus setting the fuel trim at 13.
Started out at 29mpg in town miles, now at about 700 miles it's up to 31.
No idea what the hyway miles are yet.
Chris
Oh, sorry Jeff, I couldn't live with the Pro-pipe, it's just too loud for me. The Fatcat with quiet baffle went up quite a bit with the build over stage I. I wouldn't want it any louder or I'd be back to ear plugs.
Your better off to spend your money of a gear drive cam setup and have the heads ported and polished by someone reputable. That'll get you more bang for your dollar IMHO. Add a fuel management system and a good 2 into 1 pipe and you'll have a blast on it. That can run 2K-3K depending on what you have done. Spend another 2K for a quality big bore upgrade somewhere down the road to get the max out of a build. Best to talk to the builder sponsors here on the forum than with your local dealer. They specialize in parts that are matched to accomplish a set goal. Dealers are only out to pump their Screamin Eagle parts sales and IMHO their cams are not the best choice for many builds.
Your better off to spend your money of a gear drive cam setup and have the heads ported and polished by someone reputable. That'll get you more bang for your dollar IMHO. Add a fuel management system and a good 2 into 1 pipe and you'll have a blast on it. That can run 2K-3K depending on what you have done. Spend another 2K for a quality big bore upgrade somewhere down the road to get the max out of a build. Best to talk to the builder sponsors here on the forum than with your local dealer. They specialize in parts that are matched to accomplish a set goal. Dealers are only out to pump their Screamin Eagle parts sales and IMHO their cams are not the best choice for many builds.
Not sure who your comments are directed towards. My bike is done, has wonderful power and didn't cost multi thousands of dollars. As I said, if you can do this work yourself you could be in it for about a grand. That is a lot of bang for the buck.
I'm fully aware I could have spent the bucks for gear drive cams (say $600), cylinder head work (oh, $900), gaskets ($100), misc ($200), and I have spent the big bucks twice (like 3-4K each). And you are right, it would be 2-3K more. Would it rev faster, yes. Would it make more power, yes. Does mine make great power for an everyday bagger without spending a lot, yes.
Milehog; It was getting about 34 in town before the work. I talked with Latus about the mileage and was told when it's completely broken in it shoud get better, and has some. We'll see. I could also have them lean it out a bit also, but I'll wait a couple of thousand miles first. I also want to wait until the warm weather incase they need to adjust it for pinging. So far there has not been any ping, crossing fingers.
Your better off to spend your money of a gear drive cam setup and have the heads ported and polished by someone reputable. That'll get you more bang for your dollar IMHO. Add a fuel management system and a good 2 into 1 pipe and you'll have a blast on it. That can run 2K-3K depending on what you have done. Spend another 2K for a quality big bore upgrade somewhere down the road to get the max out of a build. Best to talk to the builder sponsors here on the forum than with your local dealer. They specialize in parts that are matched to accomplish a set goal. Dealers are only out to pump their Screamin Eagle parts sales and IMHO their cams are not the best choice for many builds.
Why do I need to spend so much, to get a engine that will not last as long, have more power then I need, get less miles to the gallon, and make more vibration?
And of course if you do all that, well then you need a stronger crank as well, heck why not just buy a new bike and replace the engine with a S&S 120?
At least you will get some warranty with it.
But after all, it's only money right?
BUT this it not the point either, the question becomes, how much power do you really need?
Chris's build would make 90% of us quite happy, get us better mileage and still keep us in warranty.
We may not be winning dyno contests, or a drag race, but who drag races a tour bike anyway?
Diggerpine here; Ceraaa42, those dyno numbers look good for the money spent!
I just had the Stage ll SE 103 BB Kit installed by the dealer on my 07 RG. I don't have a Fuel Pak and am running the CVO type muffler slip-ons that came with the kit. I'm curious as to what improvement the upgrade has accomplished. Currently I'm trying to find a good dyno shop to check it out.
Diggerpine here; Ceraaa42, those dyno numbers look good for the money spent!
I just had the Stage ll SE 103 BB Kit installed by the dealer on my 07 RG. I don't have a Fuel Pak and am running the CVO type muffler slip-ons that came with the kit. I'm curious as to what improvement the upgrade has accomplished. Currently I'm trying to find a good dyno shop to check it out.
I need more information about your kit. Was this the same as mine only with the exhaust? Did you have any head work done? What are you doing for fuel adjustments right now? I hope something or you are so lean it most likely will cause engine damage.
I need more information about your kit. Was this the same as mine only with the exhaust? Did you have any head work done? What are you doing for fuel adjustments right now? I hope something or you are so lean it most likely will cause engine damage.
Hey Chris, the "103" kit I got for my 07 RG is the SE Street Legal BB Stage II Kit for EFI Models (#29907-07). The kit includes (SE-255 cams, BB cylinders, flat-top pistons, clips, HP clutch spring and all gaskets and mounting hardware.) This also included the SE Stage I Air Cleaner Kit and came with CVO style catalyst mufflers to replace the stock mufflers. Dealer recalibrated ECM for proper installation. (Engine can rev up to 6,200 RPM)
No head work was done. The stock valve springs are adequate for the .550 lift of the SE-255 cams. I'll ask the dealer what was exactly done to the ECM for recalibration. As far as any fuel adjustments, I haven't done anything to it. (yet) I haven't noticed any increase in temperature and the engine sounds and feels good to me. Hope this answers your questions!
CVO style catalyst mufflers to replace the stock mufflers. Dealer recalibrated ECM for proper installation. (Engine can rev up to 6,200 RPM)
I'll ask the dealer what was exactly done to the ECM for recalibration. As far as any fuel adjustments, I haven't done anything to it. (yet) I haven't noticed any increase in temperature and the engine sounds and feels good to me. Steven
If you were to get a better set of slip-on's and have it tuned with a SERT, I would believe you would find more power is available with no other engine changes. Also when it gets hot out you might find hot starts to be a real problem with the dealer installed download. Mines not great even with the SERT, but I was warned in advance by the turner and he will make adjustments if necessary. He also advised me to listen for engine ping when it's really warm.
If you were to get a better set of slip-on's and have it tuned with a SERT, I would believe you would find more power is available with no other engine changes. Also when it gets hot out you might find hot starts to be a real problem with the dealer installed download. Mines not great even with the SERT, but I was warned in advance by the turner and he will make adjustments if necessary. He also advised me to listen for engine ping when it's really warm.
Diggerpine here; Just got back from a trip to Las Vegas! The weather was HOT! I didn't experience any hot start problems and the only time it pinged was when I started off in third gear at a stop. :spank: I kept the rpms between 2700-2900 in 6th gear and going above this, it didn't ping. I plan on getting the bike in for a PC III installation in the near future. The tuner informed me that he will be calibrating every 5% of throttle up til 50% or so. Going beyond that might affect the temperature of the engine and also 85% of normal riding requires less than 50% throttle. When I get this done, I'll be able to post some numbers.
Diggerpine here; Just got back from a trip to Las Vegas! The weather was HOT! I didn't experience any hot start problems and the only time it pinged was when I started off in third gear at a stop. :spank: I kept the rpms between 2700-2900 in 6th gear and going above this, it didn't ping. I plan on getting the bike in for a PC III installation in the near future. The tuner informed me that he will be calibrating every 5% of throttle up til 50% or so. Going beyond that might affect the temperature of the engine and also 85% of normal riding requires less than 50% throttle. When I get this done, I'll be able to post some numbers.
I have the comments about I may have poor fuel mileage due to Latus setting the fuel trim at 13.
Started out at 29mpg in town miles, now at about 700 miles it's up to 31.
No idea what the hyway miles are yet.
Chris
Oh, sorry Jeff, I couldn't live with the Pro-pipe, it's just too loud for me. The Fatcat with quiet baffle went up quite a bit with the build over stage I. I wouldn't want it any louder or I'd be back to ear plugs.
That is way to rich of a afr. It should be around 13.9 in the cruising rpms. At 13 you are stripping the oil off of your cylinders and causing extra wear. Also as you lean it out you should see your power go up some.
In my opinion this is the best bang for the buck out there for a bagger.
I bought the SE 103” pistons with barrels, 255 cams with gaskets kit. List price $749, Zanotti’s at about $630 shipped. I had the bike in for a warranty oil leak at the bottom of both barrels so it just cost me the labor to change the cams and a retune. The work was done at Latus HD.
When they had the heads off I picked them up. Took the valves out, cleaned all the powder coating paint from the combustion chamber, ports and polished them smooth. Both exhaust valves were not sealing at about a half-inch area. I lapped the valves in to a total seal, reinstalled the valves with new seals. Total time, about 5 hours, cost $14 bucks.
I talked with Mike Stegman before and he said not to put the SE head gaskets in due to increased compression with these cams can cause pinging. So they just used the gaskets that came with the kit.
Riding impressions are; it will just about idle from a stop, pulls hard down low and starts to give up about 4500rpm just as the dyno sheet shows. A perfect fit for my riding style and it really should be this way from the factory. In the Screaming Eagle bikes it pretty much is. Riding at 70mph in 6th gear yesterday, rolled the throttle and it was right to 90 in a heart beat.
If a person can do this build themselves, they can get over 105tq including the tune for about $1000. My last built made 109tq and cost 3 grand more, that’s a bunch of money for 4 lbs of torque.
Chris... Raymond Here .... You had directed me to your Dyno sheet... Just to be clear does it indicate that you are getting 89 HP and 105 TQ?... And do you know what it would have cost you for labor had you not had a leak and had just purchased the kit and parts and handed them to the Stealer and had them do it all.... Just wondering.... And as far as when your ride is at high speeds, do you get a wobble??? if so or if you had and since resolved that issue please provide me some insight on what & what not to do...
As far as cash and what I am able to spend.... I don't want to say I don't care what it costs because I am limited to what I want to spend but I have got to get a significant increase in balls, power, Tq and plain old immediate drastic throtle response at all speeds...
I've done three builds myself not including this one since the dealer did it. All three took me about 10 hours each. I'm not a HD tech, but I am a ASE Master tech. So if a shop charges 10 hours & $100 per, there ya go, a grand for labor.
I just put on a Bagger-brace 2 days ago. First I have to say my bike rode well first so I expected the change to be minimal, I was right. First impressions are it's a bit more stable in the corners. I've had it to 93mph when I was passing in 6th which seemed to get there before I knew it with this engine kit but no brace. It handled fine then. I bought it because some have stated crosswind improvement and I'm headed for a 2500 round trip to Vegas in two days. Knowing I'll hit some crosswinds I thought I'd try it, the riding in the winds down there can be tough. So i'll give a report when I return in 10 days.
This kit will give you more response in the lower rpm's at all speeds. This is a low tq. bagger kit. If you want something SE that will pull hard all the way through, call Dan Baisley (I'll get you the number if you want). Have him pick your pistons for a 103", do his Pro-street port job on your heads and use the SE251 cams. Put on a V&H Pro-pipe and that bike will pull HARD all the way through, with a good tune of course. I did this with a 95" in my first build and it was the best power band I've ridden. Remember, you're going to be spending A LOT more money. I'd go in expecting to spend 5 grand for everything including the Stg I stuff you'll need, race tuner and tune and if it's less, great.
Chris... Raymond Here .... You had directed me to your Dyno sheet... Just to be clear does it indicate that you are getting 89 HP and 105 TQ?... And do you know what it would have cost you for labor had you not had a leak and had just purchased the kit and parts and handed them to the Stealer and had them do it all.... Just wondering.... And as far as when your ride is at high speeds, do you get a wobble??? if so or if you had and since resolved that issue please provide me some insight on what & what not to do...
As far as cash and what I am able to spend.... I don't want to say I don't care what it costs because I am limited to what I want to spend but I have got to get a significant increase in balls, power, Tq and plain old immediate drastic throtle response at all speeds...
The Pipe Chris is using is a quite baffle Fat cat pipe, wile it is a fine pipes in it's own right, it is more restrictive then mine is. His tuner (Mike Stegmen @ Latus) even said the Pro pipe would do better on this build.
Chris had a Pro pipe on his 2006 Heritage, and it was quite the build he had on it, and it was so loud, he had to ride with ear plugs.
Being he rides his wife on the back, he was more concerned with the loudness then a couple more horsepower.
Finally got this 'Science Project' finished. She took some work, and I took some lumps, but I finally got everything where I wanted it. Took her over to BVBob for the tune and she's running very strong!
2009 FLHR:
- S&S 106" Kit w/ S&S 585 EZ Start cams
- Heads by Lee's Speed Shop (Int...
Question about two different dynos one 0 smoothing the other a 5 smoothing both SAE. Why is the one so extremely jagged and the other is relatively straight? No reason except curious.
Cool thing about having the run files is being able to compare one to another then I started messing with the...
I have a 2010 Street Bob (96") and I just installed V&H Big Radius 2-2, SE Heavy Breather, and SESPT and started off doing the smart tune myself. I recorded about 8 runs half just riding like normal and the other actually doing runs (on road). I started on the map 176AE106.dt0 and after my smart...
'03 Wide Glide with:120R crate motor (1500 miles since install)
Daytona TwinTech ign.
Mikuni HSR 45 (with velocity stack)
R&B 2 into 1 Pro pipe
Why isn't this setup making the horsepower that my tuner (and others)...
I didn't experience any hot start problems and the only time it pinged was when I started off in third gear at a stop. :spank: I kept the rpms between 2700-2900 in 6th gear and going above this, it didn't ping. I plan on getting the bike in for a PC III installation in the near future. The tuner informed me that he will be calibrating every 5% of throttle up til 50% or so. Going beyond that might affect the temperature of the engine and also 85% of normal riding requires less than 50% throttle. When I get this done, I'll be able to post some numbers.
