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Discussion Starter #1
Hello from Ruidoso. My '07 rk classic won't hold a clutch adjustment more than about a thousand miles. Adjusted it 7 times in 7300 miles. First time was before the 1000 mile service.What happens is it won't downshift to first; adjusting the clutch fixes it ( for a short while). Now before i get the
"do you know what your doing question". This is my third Harley;( 4 if you count my Dog ,Harley) still have number two and of course number 3,the road king in question. Always do my own service and never had this issue before in fACT MY '99 ULTRA SELDOM NEEDED CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT.This is no minor fault, last night, two up, trying to climb out of the flying j ranch in Ruidoso, at the steepest part of the driveway in second gear went to downshift to first, no go, and it wouldn't pull the load in second gear so came to a stop on the steep, bumpy rutted dirt road such that it is.
Bike was sliding back until could get my foot up on the rear brake pedal being there is little traction on the front under the circumstances. Once stopped and after messing with it for awhile, got it into first and went home ( campground).
Today, adjusted the clutch again and all seems ok
IN fact all i did today is adjust the cable cause i'm not home where i have everthing NEEDED to do the whole job.
I recall an article by buzzerelly ( not spelled right) in American Rider not too long ago where he tested the 07 road king and had to stop and adjust the clutch in less than a thousand miles . Wunnering if the EZ clutch which i understand is in the 07s is the culprit. Asked two people with 07 roadkings that i spotted in Ruidoso area if they had similar trouble. Both said no. Guess it is only me and that buzzerelly guy. Comments please.
BTW riding around Ruidoso area is a pleasure. This is the best riding rally i've been to, daily poker runs and other scheduled rides with prizes to keep it interesting. Plus, solved two '07 problems: ear plugs fix all the noise; and the cool temps, 70s and 80s. Fix the hot engine problem; Wife did not complain of engine heat once.
 

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The Anti-RUB
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My first guess would be the primary chain, but your bike has the auto-adjuster thingy on it. So that shouldn't be it. Next idea would be to make sure you have the correct amount of fluid in the tranny and primary. Too much oil in the primary could cause it to drag, which could cause the problem your having. Last I would check the procedure you are using to adjust your clutch. I've known guys who have been servicing their own bikes for years and were adjusting their clutch the wrong way the entire time. Your clutch cable should be fully stretched by now, so I don't think that is the issue. Here are Harris's instructions for adjusting your clutch. Very good and accurate. I know you know how to adjust a clutch, but it won't hurt to try these steps. You never know...

Harris said:
Try starting as if you'd never done anything, and follow these steps exactly:

First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.

1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ½” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.

2) Completely pull the clutch lever. Remove the “C” clip from the bottom of the clutch lever retaining pin, at the clutch lever, then slide the lever from the bracket, so it’s hanging by the cable.

3) Squirt Bike Aid lube into the cable just until it drips out of the jam nut assembly.

4) Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.

5) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.

6) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.

7) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!

8) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ½ turn to one full turn. If you use the clutch to control the motor at low speeds, you should use ¾ turn. ½ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.

9) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.

10) Replace the cover, making sure the gasket is good. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50-70 inch pounds of torque.

11) Again add Bike aid to the cable, until it drips from the jam nut assembly.

12) Replace the lever in the bracket, being careful not to bend the black plastic anti-rattle shim. Install the “C” clip.

13) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.

Harris
 

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I had a similar problem on my previous bike... I could never get the clutch to stay adjusted. I ended up changing the cable and the problem never appeared again. I guess it is possible that some of the cables stretch more than others...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
velly interesting petrock and hijack. I'll try that harris procedure and then if not corrected i might have to try new cable. Also thinking it may need to go to the dealer since it is still under warrentee.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Took bike to mother road hd in kingman today. Basically they adjusted the clutch and charged me 38.00 dollars. Now i know clutch adjustments is maintenance and that is why i do it myself ordinarilly; but i should not have to do it so often; less than a 1000 miles between adjustments. But the dealer
(talked to the service manager) " never heard of the problem before" and has no clue what could cause the problem. So, i'm looking for anyone who is experiencing the same problem on a '07. Still looking for info as to which issue and the article title of the American Rider piece where buzzelli wrote of the exact same trouble.
And another thing, when the clutch is adjusted properly (as by the dealer today)
the lever is almost all the way released before the clutch engages, very annoying. My '99 ultra and previous HDs never operated that way.
 

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6k on mine, adjust twice. Problem I have is the clutch won't go all the way bakc out. I haven't lubed it, that will be my first thing. Needle for my lube is plugged.

Other then that I really like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update

Well, about 1800 miles now since the dealer adjusted the clutch and it is just starting to balk at downshifting to first gear. Don't think the dealer did anything substantially different adjusting the clutch than i was doing, but 1800 miles is about twice the mileage i got between adjustments. Hard to imagine how to maladjust the clutch so it would be fine for 800 miles then start not releaseing fully so that downshifting was a problem.
 

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I did my 07, at 1k, 4.8 and now over 8k and still good. Maybe lube the cable, maybe hard on it. I doubt it, but its cheap and easy.

I guess I would keep bitching to the Dealer, but I don't know where that will get ya.

Personally I really like the easy shift.

Maybe good time to go braided line, put a new cable in, check your balls.

Keep adjusting it, and hope it fails under warrantry. Which I really don't like to say, cause who knows where it will be when it fails.

Maybe pull the clutch and take a look at discs. There not much to this. Balls move on ramp, drive a rod through to clutch, clutch goes in and out.

No good answer.
 
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