harley4u said:I bought a haynes service manual but cannot find anywhere in the book where it tell you how to adjust the front brake lever? Seems it needs to be adjusted cause the there's quite a bit of travel in the lever. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Your dealer shanked you if he charged a hundred bucks to rebuilt a mastercylinder..............A "rebuild kit" is about 10 bucks and takes about 10 minutes to install. Not only that, your dealer could have suggested that you buy a used mastercyliner off of eBay for a few bucks, because the world is full of discarded black mastercylinder's that have been swapped for chrome ones.inkonyou said:I have an 01 Road King Classic and had the same problem. The dealer told me I had a safety problem and should rebuild the master cylinder (HD Hundred Dollars). Told them to do it and when I went to pick up the bike the hand brake lever still pulled all the way back to throttle grip.....and there was brake fluid all over my front fender and elsewhere on my bike. Needless to say, I got real shitty with them folks real fast and told them they better clean my bike and fix the problem they charged me for. Next day the problem was fixed. They said they had to bleed and bleed the lines (so it probably wasn't the master cylinder anyway). I'm hearing 01's seem to have that problem. A mechanic from another dealer told me if I have the problem again, take a rubber band and put it around the lever and grip (not to tight) but enough to keep pressure on it and let it sit for 24 hours. He said that if there is air in the line, sometimes it will bleed itself using the rubber band. I don't know if that would work for you but worth a try.
Before you spend money on a rebuild kit, I'd just try to clean the piston, as indicated in my previous post. While you have the pistons protruding out of the caliper, spray them down with some brake cleaner... use a rag and get in there (maybe an old toothbrush would work?) and wipe them down.VMAN said:After chasing down a nagging front brake problem for a while, I was left with nothing to do but either pay the dealer for some sort of "power bleed" procedure (which I'm sure they would have screwed up) or start looking at the calipers. I was pretty confident that the system was air free and after reading this thread took the calipers off. Bingo! Some of the pistons weren't even coming out of the caliper even after pumping the brake lever. Some would come out and then creep right back in like there was vacum sucking them back. Anyway, I wanted to thank you guys for the tip- I'm off to buy rebuild kits. Vic
I heard of this recently myself. Only had the chance to try it once and it did seem to help in that case. I'd need to try it a few more times to see if there was consistency in improvement or not. Certainly is an easy thing to try if you're having a problem though, can't see that it would hurt anything.VMAN said:One question though to anyone who might know- any truth to what was told to inkonyou about the rubber band on the lever deal? Will any air actually bleed itself out through the M cyl by using this method? Thanx again fellas,
Dealers won't install used parts or aftermarket parts! You want a hack job, go to an independent shop.Your dealer shanked you if he charged a hundred bucks to rebuilt a mastercylinder..............A "rebuild kit" is about 10 bucks and takes about 10 minutes to install. Not only that, your dealer could have suggested that you buy a used mastercyliner off of eBay for a few bucks, because the world is full of discarded black mastercylinder's that have been swapped for chrome ones.
Irregardless, you are correct the problem wasn't your mastercylinder in the first place. Spongy brakes and the lever pulling in too far are a common complaint on dual disk systems. It seems that an air bubble is often chased back and forth between the calipers when you bleed 'em the old fashioned way. A MityVac tool is the best way to bleed 'em correctly. A good dealership service department should have a 30 buck MityVac to do the job right.
I know this is an older post... I just got a 04 Road King Custom dual caliper. Soft braking and lever pulls almost to the grip before braking much. I noticed that it's making a noise that I initially assumed was the pads making light contact with the discs. BUT it goes away when I just barely pull the brake and no braking happening. The noise sounds almost like a hissing air hose. Ever encounter that?Bikes with dual calipers (touring bikes), often have another problem, even easier to fix.
The outside of the piston (in the caliper, that pushes the pad outwards) gets gunked up from brake dust and road grime. It starts to "fight" the rubber o-ring that is supposed to pull it back in.
At our shop, here's what we do.... 1) take off one of the calipers 2) squeeze the lever until the pads press against each other 3) spray the outside of the pistons with brake cleaner, get a rag in there and clean them really well 4) pry the pads back apart gently 5) reinstall that caliper and repeat for the other side.
We get this complain often, and you'll be shocked what a difference you'll feel in the caliper.
Single caliper bikes don't seem to have this problem as often, possibly due to having more pressure available for the single caliper?