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Old 05-08-2014, 08:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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TODSHO wants to know Dino or Syn?
Syn vs conventional

I had had oil pressure issues last year, so I threw in some of the cheapest 60 wt I could find and ran it all last year with no pressure issues. This year, I changed my oil with a high grade syn 20w50 oil and my oil pressure drops off after warm up and light comes on.
Has anyone else run into syn oil causing low oil pressure? If so , what oil do you run to keep pressure up?

Last edited by TODSHO; 05-08-2014 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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DR_DEUCE wants to know Dino or Syn?
IF you have an EVO engine, its not uncommon, happened to me. I use dino oil now in the evo, and full synthetic in the other twin cams.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes, Its an EVO BT...sorry, should have mentioned that..I had this same issue last year when I went to synthetic 20w50..so while trying to figure it out, I threw the conventional 60 wt in....no issues. Now that I put the syn back in I am having the same problem as before.
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Old 05-10-2014, 04:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Yes, Its an EVO BT...sorry, should have mentioned that..I had this same issue last year when I went to synthetic 20w50..so while trying to figure it out, I threw the conventional 60 wt in....no issues. Now that I put the syn back in I am having the same problem as before.
If your gauge is accurate then it is a simple law of physics. Thinner the oil is will result in lower pressure and also an oil that has better flow characteristics will show lower pressure. Most of the time the oil pressure gauge is not sensitive enough to detect it though. Also if your engine is worn enough it will also show lower oil pressure than when it was new.
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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oldschoolfx wants to know Dino or Syn?
I don't know a single thing about post evo bikes.

With that said I have never seen two oil gauges (temperature, ammeter, voltmeter, etc.) ran on the same circuit read exactly the same. Well, never is pretty definitive, say extremely seldom. Especially if they are of the auto-parts store variety. It used to be Borg-Warner had the more reliable gauges. May not be true anymore. But even then accuracy was iffy, just closer to right than others.
At the construction company I worked for our mechanic had a certified accurate gauge he used to check the machines gauges against. 'Most' times an older or new garden variety gauge ran pounds lower than the certified gauge. He liked that and it might be an industry standard to make that happen. It's just good thinking actually. I wouldn't count on it until I had the gauge checked against a certified gauge. But any metal (soft enough to be used as a gauge movement) will work harden which makes the movement become stiffer which in turn requires more pressure to move the needle so it reads a lower pressure. Why new gauges read lower is still a mystery. Poor QC most likely in mass produced parts is the likely answer to that. At least this is the way it was explained to me, if anyone here is an engineer correct me one way or the other.
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I just tried synthedic redline in my 96 Evo W/54K on the clock. Now I occasionally hear valves ticking, which I've never heard before. Any similar things happen out there? Think standard oil is better for Evo's? I would appreciate any input. Much Thanks!
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Part timer is reading this now saying WTF is this?
I use syn on my 2015 and dino on my 1983 FL. Seems to work.
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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captainhook455 is reading this now saying WTF is this?
When I first purchased my '02 I went to stealer for gaskets and was told to use straight 50wt. Works for me.

tarheel
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Old 07-06-2016, 03:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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01Ron wants to know Dino or Syn?
Valvoline VR1 50w racing oil is my choice. Quieted down the lifters in my 1991 evo.
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Old 07-07-2016, 09:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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When I first purchased my '02 I went to stealer for gaskets and was told to use straight 50wt. Works for me.

tarheel
Stealer said to use 50 wt. in a twin cam??
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Old 07-07-2016, 10:34 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Stealer said to use 50 wt. in a twin cam??
What do you recommend?

tarheel
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Old 07-07-2016, 10:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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What do you recommend?

tarheel
I don't recommend. I was just a little surprised that a dealer recommended strait 50 in a twin cam. I'm still on the learning curve though.

As said I don't recommend, but I use Mobile 1 V-Twin 20/50. I get the infamous 103 top end clatter so always looking for oil related alternatives and or answers, as I wouldn't mind quieting the twinkie down a little.
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Old 07-07-2016, 01:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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BigPeet is reading this now saying WTF is this?
I never have the problems others do.

I ran 20w50 synthetic in my evo for 150,000 miles.

I run 20w50 synthetic in my 103 and don't have the infamous clatter.

What am I doing wrong? I want to be like everyone else!

~Pete
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Old 07-07-2016, 04:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I don't recommend. I was just a little surprised that a dealer recommended strait 50 in a twin cam. I'm still on the learning curve though.

As said I don't recommend, but I use Mobile 1 V-Twin 20/50. I get the infamous 103 top end clatter so always looking for oil related alternatives and or answers, as I wouldn't mind quieting the twinkie down a little.
Did I mention anything about how hot it is here. I was just in the garage and the dipstick reads 90. Good thing the door is open. The news said the heat index is 107.
I used to ride around Shokan, NY and I don't remember leaving in the morning wearing shorts and a t shirt. Mine is a lowly 88 with SS carb, and she is fast enough for me. I think 20/50 is acceptable during cooler months. I use Havoline 50wt racing oil all year long. January and February is our winter. Two months of winter and ten months of summer.

tarheel
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